Builds First LC, HZJ77 Build "Kengo" (1 Viewer)

[Blomdala]

Which transmission does your HZJ77 have? I was under the impression that the HZJ models had the hydraulic A442f and therefore didn't have an ECU? The manual is definitely still a work in progress, most of it is translated but there are still a couple pages containing diagrams with the locations of various components and plugs that I haven't finished yet.

It really does look great! I don't mean to take away from that!

So my 77 has an interesting combo. On the tag its listed as an A440f, but in 95 its changed to an A442F, but those changes are described as only due to lightening some of the castings of components. So essentially I have an electronic A442F (though officially on tags it looks like an A440F ECT) I have an ECU under the left side of my column, and ETC power switch (which actually is a nice improvement) and an O/D off button on my shifter.

 

[AirheadNut]

Interesting! The manual says its for 1990-1992, so I guess that change wouldn't be covered unfortunately. That said, I would expect the transmission wiring to be largely similar to an FJ80/A442f.

 

[Blomdala]

Interesting! The manual says its for 1990-1992, so I guess that change wouldn't be covered unfortunately. That said, I would expect the transmission wiring to be largely similar to an FJ80/A442f.

That is a good point, the change occurred in 93 (my year) so that makes sense! I wasn't sure what the 80 A442F wiring was like, I know there was a hydro trans, but didn't know if it went to ETC and then A343 or from hydro to 343.

 

[Pip Bernadotte]

I realize I worded my response poorly, I apologize for that. The documents are still in Japanese, I tried to use some OCR software and translation on it but the original docs from TMC are so blurry in the small font of the diagrams that it wasn't working. So I use Capture2text as needed to find components. Even then you have you put on your Jinglish thinking cap to figure out what the word is based off the translation.

I appologize for that confusion/getting anyone's hopes up.

I may be able to help with some of the translations if you can send me the files. My Japanese reading ability isn't great, but I can usually get by well enough. Especially to fix Cruisers~ (I also have a HZJ77, though I have the H55f transmission)

 

[Blomdala]

I may be able to help with some of the translations if you can send me the files. My Japanese reading ability isn't great, but I can usually get by well enough. Especially to fix Cruisers~ (I also have a HZJ77, though I have the H55f transmission)

Pm me an email and I’d be happy to send them over!

 

[Blomdala]

Well some good news and some bad news, and some good news again.

good news, we were planning a camping trip next weekend in the 77, but the weather updated to a low of 15, high of 30, so we decided we would leave to camp this weekend (2 hrs before we actually left). I only took my 2 oldest with me as a shakedown run to a camp ground 1 hr away. Everything went well, I never saw temp above 950f with the trailer on there. 60 is ok, 65 is tough, 70 is almost impossible. But I’m getting used to the shift points and using that O/D button ha. It was a fun trip, even though it was a short trip. Sunday morning as soon. As I finished cooking breakfast (literally eggs barely done) the propane ran out, so we hurried and packed up to leave.

Bad news time: truck started fine, but I noticed a bit of an irregular idle at times. Started to drive away and lost throttle response. Engine rpm did whatever it wanted there no matter what my pedal did. It finally died and I popped the hood to take a quick look. Nothing looked off so I decided to check the primer, after pumping it a bit it started to leak from the fuel heater. Crap. Went inside, fired it up and revved it and it was perfect. After 20 seconds of that and nothing leaking major, we went non stop to the house. Had no other issues, thankfully. Figuring I’ll change the oring, I tested the pump again and noticed it leaking from under the top edge of the pump side. Shoot. So I’m working on tracking one down. No heater is easy, heater, not so much.

 

[Blomdala]

The final good news (besides making it home!) is that my special project for this truck came to fruition. Shout out to my dad for hanging on to good stuff for years with no plan to use it, but know it could get used! Over Christmas break he gave me a VIP RS3200 alarm for a 2003 echo. It was removed, but basically new and when he pulled it he labeled the important wires. I love the convenience of keyless entry, but I hate aftermarket fobs. They feel so clunky and ugly to me, so this is a dream come true. I love the classic 3 button remotes from the early 2000s. After some careful testing, studying and planning I started the install. I had already prepped out the door wiring that I needed for the lock/unlock commands and the key unlock sense. The last thing I needed to figure out was an unlock switch (ground when locked, open when unlocked) to make the lights for the alarm work correctly. I thought I was a genius for my solution, it worked perfectly, but then my switch died. So I’ll be getting a similar but more robust switch and swapping that out soon. Lock and unlock works fine, but the lights don’t flash twice with unlock without that switch.

It has a nice audible click when going down. Really happy with it, but I think the switch is a tad wimpy. It’s from an old 3D printer.

I also used this time to clean my non functioning key switch, it was crusty In There but works great now. I also cleaned and lubed the cylinder, and straightened out my door panel for the cylinder. It looked like someone bent the cylinder up, but now it’s straight again.

 

[Blomdala]

I tapped the radio power and ground since the DCDC has a nice constant 12v out available for it. In my testing, the alarm never took more than 0.7A so I’m not worried about it. I also popped the glas break sensor into one of the switch spots.

There is a little 3 prong wire under the dash, it has a very convenient connection for the ignition switch. I snagged a pin to put into that. Trying to keep things unmolested.

 

[Blomdala]

So far, I’m very happy with it. I have everything connected and working except that unlock switch that now needs improvement, the horn wire for when the alarm is triggered, and the chirp wire. I have a Toyota peizo beeper, but it’s dead, so I need to get another one. With that and the switch working I’ll have the Toyota fob and a nice Toyota beep. This has been a fun project for me, something that I really like and makes my truck a little more unique and tailored to me!

 

[Blomdala]

Had a bit of a week last week here in TX. No power, then city pumps went off line so had no water, it was a full time job keeping pipes warm and such until we got water back! But a good experience over all with emergency prep, and the generator did great for keeping the furnace running! My kids loved it, they played outside more than normal HA!

Down side is my truck was down the whole time as my part shipments were delayed. The one time everywhere was a 4WD wonder land. Terrible timing haha.

parts finally arrived, my fuel primer/filter cap. I have the snow package on my truck with the fuel heater, so there we less options out there. I found one website that had the same one as mine (I think amayama) but it was pricey. It sounds like most recommend removing the heater and getting a primer to suit. From what I was seeing, no matter what I picked for a replacement, I would have to modify the bracket/fitment unless I bought the one expensive one(I’m skeptical it was even in stock).

so I set out to find the cheapest option that allowed me to keep the heater and filter type. I found one on parts souq for a coaster, for 33 plus shipping! Score.

I replaced my hoses(since I needed longer ones anyways) with 3/8 hose. Very tight in the new cap, but that’s ok with me. I read that many noted larger barbs for the hoses on replacement primers.

I also found the large O-ring (from the oring store LLC) to fit the heater element as it was leaking as well. The 29mmx2mm is what I used I believe. I ordered 30.5mm just in case. It was a TIGHT squeeze in, but that’s ok!

had to modify the bracket, but that wasn’t bad. I moved one tab over, and added a new brace to the new tab location. Used almost all from the original brace, only needed a small section to brace the new mount. Went smoother than I thought, and the engine purrs with no leaks so that’s all that matters!

The screws to mount the heater are smaller on this one. There was one screw in the cap for a wire hood down, so I stole that one, and found another in my bolt bin to fit the other

I also found the stickers for the alarm so make it official HA!

I’m waiting on leaf spring pins so I can take it out for some more driving. My girls have been asking frequently to drive in it, and they are starting to get upset at me that the answer is still “I’m sorry, we can’t”. Need to get it running before there is a revolt!

 

[Pip Bernadotte]

Slowly Chunking away at this project. Put new rings on the manifold and it slipped in no problem. This monstrosity of iron and aluminum is probably the most beautiful thing that’s come across this workspace!

Figured I should take a crack at getting the exhaust out so I can hang the manifold, I wanted to remove it via disassembling, but then the bolts and flanges laughed at me so saws all came out to play. I’m seriously amazed how heavy that muffler is. It’s been repaired before and this thing must have 50lbs of crystallized Kyushu Sea salt in it. Going to have to put some weight in the back or it’s going to look like a dung beetle!

Anyway, all the old stuff is out and only more thing checked off the list!
View attachment 2545015View attachment 2545016View attachment 2545018
anyone know what this plug is? It’s attached to the alternator harness, it kinda looks like an Elocker plug, but just curious if someone has something actually plugged into it?
View attachment 2545019View attachment 2545021

That is, in fact, the E-locker plug.

 

[Blomdala]

That is, in fact, the E-locker plug.

That is great to know! Thank you! I haven’t found a plug behind the dash yet, but it may be taped up out of the way a bit.

 

[Pip Bernadotte]

That is great to know! Thank you! I haven’t found a plug behind the dash yet, but it may be taped up out of the way a bit.

Sorry, just finished reading the thread. The rear plug near the bumper is also the e-locker plug. I just confirmed it today (I was also curious if it was a trailer plug) by crawling under a friend's fully optioned out HZJ77. Sadly, I didn't get a chance to see where his locker switch plugs in in the dash while he was over, but I can ask him if he'd mind taking a picture/video of it if you're interested?

Also, what was the modification you were doing on your fuel pump for? I saw you mentioned it having something to do with having an automatic transmission... but didn't understand what the purpose was. (possibly not relevant because I have the 5-speed, but I'm curious none-the-less)

 

[Blomdala]

Sorry, just finished reading the thread. The rear plug near the bumper is also the e-locker plug. I just confirmed it today (I was also curious if it was a trailer plug) by crawling under a friend's fully optioned out HZJ77. Sadly, I didn't get a chance to see where his locker switch plugs in in the dash while he was over, but I can ask him if he'd mind taking a picture/video of it if you're interested?

Also, what was the modification you were doing on your fuel pump for? I saw you mentioned it having something to do with having an automatic transmission... but didn't understand what the purpose was. (possibly not relevant because I have the 5-speed, but I'm curious none-the-less)

You're good! The locker switch mounts to the lower left side of the column, I just need to open things up to see if a plug is in there. I'm not sure what my plan is for a locker, a 24V Elocker sounds like a pricey endeavor lol.

So the Fuel primer that I had started leaking on me and it was sucking in air causing my truck to not run correctly. So I had to replace it because its a crimped part. The heater element was leaking as well but I could get an O ring for that, so with a new housing and O ring it is back to normal. The original Part number is not readily available/is expensive so I bought a much cheaper one from a coaster and made it fit.

 

[Pip Bernadotte]

You're good! The locker switch mounts to the lower left side of the column, I just need to open things up to see if a plug is in there. I'm not sure what my plan is for a locker, a 24V Elocker sounds like a pricey endeavor lol.

So the Fuel primer that I had started leaking on me and it was sucking in air causing my truck to not run correctly. So I had to replace it because its a crimped part. The heater element was leaking as well but I could get an O ring for that, so with a new housing and O ring it is back to normal. The original Part number is not readily available/is expensive so I bought a much cheaper one from a coaster and made it fit.

If you can find the plug, I'd check the voltage. I can't imagine that toyota made a special 24V locker just for the limited number of 24V trucks they have. I would guess that they tap into the 24v->12v converter that the radio uses.

 

[Blomdala]

If you can find the plug, I'd check the voltage. I can't imagine that toyota made a special 24V locker just for the limited number of 24V trucks they have. I would guess that they tap into the 24v->12v converter that the radio uses.

Since the door locks and window motors are 24v, it would make sense that the lockers are as well. That's a lot of current for the Radio DCDC. The EWD seems to support that its just using 24V for all of it. Unless the Lock computer has a DC step down in it.

 

[OGBeno]

12V Diff lock switch: 84725-60020

24v Diff lock switch: 84725-60020

 

[Loober]

Yes they are 24V, mine says on the label.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I don't think the switch would care at all between those voltages. The actuator motor would probably also work on either voltage given that it's quick, intermittent service; would just be faster with the 24v. I wouldn't be surprised to see the actuators also the same part number.

 

[Blomdala]

For switches, you're right. The small difference in voltage means nothing as they are sending signals to the ECU to control the actuators. For motors however, Voltage is a bigger deal so I would expect form the ECU down to the actuator to be 24V unique. I'm also guessing that buy the time I purchase 24V differentials, I could have installed an ARB kit for less. I'm happy the wiring is there, and I'll keep my eyes out for a good deal on Elockers, but I'm not in a rush on that.