Builds First LC, HZJ77 Build (1 Viewer)

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Aug 5, 2014
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After inspecting my trays and ensuring some strength I decided to proceed with my battery exchange.

I also moved my positive to the engine side to get some clearance from the firewall. It’s a tight squeeze otherwise. But there was plenty of cable to go to that side.

I also took an old shackle bolt and gave it a good coating with tool dip to be my winch line tension keeper. Classy I know.

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After inspecting my trays and ensuring some strength I decided to proceed with my battery exchange.

I also moved my positive to the engine side to get some clearance from the firewall. It’s a tight squeeze otherwise. But there was plenty of cable to go to that side.

I also took an old shackle bolt and gave it a good coating with tool dip to be my winch line tension keeper. Classy I know.

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I would get a better rubber boot for that positive terminal closest to the firewall, like the one you have on the negative on the opposing side.
 
Joined
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Messages
441
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I would get a better rubber boot for that positive terminal closest to the firewall, like the one you have on the negative on the opposing side.
I do have a military spec mount for the positive as well with a boot, so maybe I’ll toss the boot on now
 
Joined
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DFW, TX
While I was out this weekend, my temps started rising and my gauge was a bit finicky with my AC on max. Before I go wild into my fan clutch and such (rising was at idle) I was recommend to get an actual water temp gauge for my engine. Which I think is a great idea to actually know what’s going on.

I started looking at all my options, and apart from a sensor and a small screen, I had everything to run a nice digital arduino gauge. I have some ideas for making a cool sort of info center in the far future so I figured now is my time to dabble.

This is build using a NodeMCU (very small) and a DS18B20 temp sensor. Accurate to +- .5c and well within the range of any engine temp. It fit the bill so I got to work. I have it all ready to roll now (even the loading screen ha!) but I’m working on a good sensor mount. I can only find a 1/2npt thermowell for the sensor probe, so I hacked together something for testing (I know it’s JBweld) while I work on getting a 1/8 or 1/4 npt thermowell purchased/made.

I could use a regular generic temp sensor, but then it needs to be mapped out for temps and everything. Maybe I’ll get to that point, but these are accurate, widely used and fully supported natively.

I’ll get the old hose cut and sensor installed tomorrow, I have a new hose so I’ll cut the old one for this. I think I have a good place to mount it for now. I’ll have to get started on making a little housing for it later.

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Well it’s all installed, luckily the NodeMCU uses something like 200ma, so I just tapped into another 12v circuit. I need to put the cover back on the inside of the truck, but it’s function and not leaking ha. Hopefully I can get it out for a drive today or tomorrow. My wife also grabbed me some 10,000CST fluid for the fan clutch just in case. We are conveniently located 15 minutes from traxxas headquarters building ha.

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Great job on your build - really enjoying reading this as I've just started baselining a 92 hzj77.

When you replaced the BEBs, did you replace them with standard size Toyota bearings? Could you provide a little detail on the work you did?

Did you reuse the hardware? Assuming you rolled the top bearings out? Did you check the rod bearings too?

Thanks! Really impressed with all the work you've done.
 
Joined
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Great job on your build - really enjoying reading this as I've just started baselining a 92 hzj77.

When you replaced the BEBs, did you replace them with standard size Toyota bearings? Could you provide a little detail on the work you did?

Did you reuse the hardware? Assuming you rolled the top bearings out? Did you check the rod bearings too?

Thanks! Really impressed with all the work you've done.
Thank you!

I replaced the rod with the bearings that @SteveJackson sells (Taiho) for a 1HZ. I didn't have knocking or anything that made me concerned about my clearances. I probably should have plastigauged them, but all but one looked good, so I just changed them out (and yes, rolled the top ones out!). I didn't inspect main bearings. I reused the Rod bolts, they all met the torque requirement so per the FSM I didn't replace them. Not bad to replacement, but I personally didn't.
 
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Cooling has been going ok lately, still climbs a bit more than I want but so far it hasn’t gone past 212F. Which is good.

I’ve been trying to prioritize some things to get ready for a 2 week trip at the end of the month with my family, and cooling has been my main focus. 4 front vents, no rear vents, and driving across TX in the summer has my wife worried. So after confirming AC full and performance, I moved on to reflection and insulation. It’s not going to be a Lexus, but the more comfortable the passengers, the more enjoyable the drive.

First up was finishing removing all the nasty crappy tint on the side windows. Thankfully there was a cooler morning I could bust this out. I was able to sneak my way into an appointment and has 30% VLT ceramic tint applied to all but windshield. I’ve never had ceramic tint, CA it was a big no no, but wow. The heat on my arm is almost nothing with the tint. Very happy about that and hoping for it to be a good improvement for keeping everyone cool.



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My next plan was to add some thinsulate to the roof and doors to help insulate a bit. I was thinking of melamine but thinsulate has better R value and ended up being cheaper. There was also a sale on second skin damplifier pro tiles so I got a box of them to ad to a few panels before I put insulation on over it. I’ve also not had experience with resonance absorbers or insulation so we will see how it goes. I am looking forward to it! Tiles arrived, still waiting on thinsulate
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I have been waiting to do my brakes as the rotors were a tad gnarly from sitting in Japan. My pads are pretty low but now my rotors are nice an clean, no vibrations or shaking so it’s time for pads. I started with the rear expecting to do a quick job (I just did my wife’s sienna and it was less than 45 min total for the rear). After the piston stopped moving, I decided to pull it and saw this:
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I know it’s normal for some east coast guys but I’ve had a spoiled life on the west coast and never had to deal with this LOL. got some reman calipers for both sides and finally have the rear finished now. I ordered up from calipers for the front in preparation for more rust/sadness 😂.
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I am happy to personally report that 1994 LC80 rear calipers are a perfect match. Correct stampings and everything. FJ cruiser would work, but they aren’t drilled and tapped for the cover on top since they are mounted on the rear.
Also V6 4runner front calipers are the same.

For front pads, the factory pads for a 70 actually are discontinued (ending in 60030) but there are luckily 4(well 3 now) in stock at the parts centers so I got my local dealer to grab me some. If they didn’t have them I’d just run 4runner pads, but hey I’m happy to get shape AND compound that matches for this truck!
 

SNLC

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If you have issues with cooling in the hot summer months you could easily switch over to a direct drive fan. No fan clutch. Many 70-series came this way in the tropics. Everyone I have seen or worked on runs very cool. You could then swap out the hub for the fan clutch again in winter.

Just a thought.

Cheers
 
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If you have issues with cooling in the hot summer months you could easily switch over to a direct drive fan. No fan clutch. Many 70-series came this way in the tropics. Everyone I have seen or worked on runs very cool. You could then swap out the hub for the fan clutch again in winter.

Just a thought.

Cheers
That is great info thank you! I had no idea there was a direct drive version. I wonder if they use that in Middle East as well?

I did some tests today with the trailer and it was ok, but I’d love it a bit lower. I’m going to give another idea a shot this week from @joekatana and lift the back of the hood up an inch to help get some of that hot air out.

As a side note, the air bags were great and it was nice and level.
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Hood lifted. Ready for some testing Ha! I feel like it’s mid transformation as a transformer.
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I like what you used for spacers; creative. What does that lift the hood, about 3/4"? I had a similar set up, but with different spacers and I'm looking forward to what results you see. You still thinking of coming east in September?
 
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I like what you used for spacers; creative. What does that lift the hood, about 3/4"? I had a similar set up, but with different spacers and I'm looking forward to what results you see. You still thinking of coming east in September?
I never throw things away for opportunities like these LOL. Yeah its right around 1 inch of lift there. Are you still running yours? Didn't get a chance to have it out in the hot sun today but hoping to try this week. When it sits at idle with AC on max, ill get up to 215F. Towing I got up to 209 pushing it. That is all before doing this, so ill post back after! Its still in the books for the 70 event in TN! unfortunately no extra vacation time after a few other family events that popped up to extend and get out to the coast.
 
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Too much to get into here, but I am not using the spacers at this time. How is your fan clutch? One thing I did was get the larger orange hub HDJ78/79 fan clutch and with the oil changed out to 15,000 CST, and shear plate adjusted to 95 degrees, which seems to help when a lot of air is not moving over the radiator. I would be interested in a direct drive fan hub as mentioned by @SNLC if you happen to find one or have PN for one I would like to hear more about it. Your temps don't seem too bad at all, especially towing and pushing it. I was getting those kind of numbers on the interstate going 70 and not towing. I'll send you a PM later with more details.
 
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Too much to get into here, but I am not using the spacers at this time. How is your fan clutch? One thing I did was get the larger orange hub HDJ78/79 fan clutch and with the oil changed out to 15,000 CST, and shear plate adjusted to 95 degrees, which seems to help when a lot of air is not moving over the radiator. I would be interested in a direct drive fan hub as mentioned by @SNLC if you happen to find one or have PN for one I would like to hear more about it. Your temps don't seem too bad at all, especially towing and pushing it. I was getting those kind of numbers on the interstate going 70 and not towing. I'll send you a PM later with more details.
So I did put 10,000CST fluid in my clutch, and adjusted my clutch temp. Maybe I should have been a little more aggressive on the temp opening setting.
 

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