Builds First LC, HZJ77 Build "Kengo" (2 Viewers)

[FJ73Texas]

I also have an HZJ77 and have seen that many people switch to locking hubs. Do you have a Part Number for the hubs? I assume y'all usually use an earlier model's Asin hubs, correct? Also, where do y'all source them from? Cruiser Outfitters? Toyota Directly?

I got everything I needed from cruiser outfitters to make the swap to manual hubs. They made it easy to get the parts.

Make sure you get the the knuckles too without the groove for the electric wires or you will have a hole that water can get into If you try to reuse the original knuckles.

 

[Blomdala]

I vote to convert over to manual hubs. Even if you rebuild the auto hubs, they will fail again I am sure.

I did have the auto hubs rebuilt by someone on the PZJ70 I owned and they quit working again on the current owner during an off-roading trip I was told.

Another option which is probably the easiest and cheapest is a hub kit someone on here makes where you can switch the hubs on and off using an allen key or something like that. I can’t remember the guy’s mud name at the moment.

I also have an HZJ77 and have seen that many people switch to locking hubs. Do you have a Part Number for the hubs? I assume y'all usually use an earlier model's Asin hubs, correct? Also, where do y'all source them from? Cruiser Outfitters? Toyota Directly?

There are a few options for sourcing all the parts but you need spindles, and wheel hub bodies as well which is why I have put it off. Cruiser outfitters is the easiest route as the have a full kit ready to roll. Other wise you basically need to find a mini truck, 60 or I think even 40 series knuckle for all your parts. Cant just swap the manual hub.

 

[Blomdala]

After a combined time of probably 2 hrs just laying under the truck staring, I decided it’s time to just cut up and re route my exhaust i recently finished .

I was looking at the best way to move it without removing things, but after taking a look at the Jmacx rear coil kit routing, I went with moving the rear brake proportioning valve. I will either move its mount, or make it full power and leave it. At ride height, moving the arm up about 3/4 inch maxes it out so there isn’t much going on there anyways. I removed it in my old 4runner and had not lockup issues.

My immediate goal is to make room for my air bags which will help with the large amount of towing that will be happening this summer on our family trip. My secondary goal is to make this the last time I modify it, so IF I get crazy and try to do some rear coils, I don’t have to worry about the exhaust.

the previously route was pretty simple and not a lot of bends, thankfully I was able to reuse sections, a few pie cuts, and make it all work. Ran out of time last night but I’m just finishing up burning it all in now. After that I need to relocate on hangar and start working on the airbag brackets. It’s not the most beautiful pipe in some sections, but I didn’t want to buy more pipe, and one of the ugly cuts I was going to toss ended up making it match up perfect...

 

[Blomdala]

I also took a crack at repairing my rear window heater. It had a few breaks and didn’t work except in one really hot spot. Used locktites kit and with some careful taping it doesn’t look like much from the outside. After the exhaust is done I’ll give it a test.

 

[Blomdala]

I’ve been working on getting air bags added to the rear (that’s why I moved my exhaust) to help level the rear when I have my trailer attached. We aren’t talking about a lot of weight (the tounge is about 250lbs) but I have non OE springs and I don’t want the ride to get any rougher as I don’t tow constantly.

It’s a right squeeze for a bag, and with internal bump stops I can’t make the adapters too tall or else I’m limiting the axle up travel. After watching a few airbag man videos and going through 2 versions of adapters, I think it’s going to work.

I moved the top mount down just enough to be able to clear the frame mounting bolts (it’s a narrower spacing than the bag top) and because of that I had to ditch my nice poly cup for the bottom. I think it will be fine with just the plate platform, but not as visually appealing. I tried to keep is as low as possible but got the opening a little thin for the u bolts so it need led a touch of “persuasion” to get under the bolts for mounting. The point is that the bottom is not attached so it only assists with extra weight and shouldn’t effect any other aspect of wheel travel. I only have one side mounted, tomorrow will be the other side and hose routing.

 

[Blomdala]

Finished up the bags today, not too bad! The u bolts were a little tricky to get over the bottom pad tabs, but this is my first spring under so I don’t know what I’m doing LOL.

On the RH side, the breather was barely hitting the bag. So I decided to shorten it. The tube had to get shorter so it would clear the ubolt to twist in. It was a little harder to install with not a lot of hex shaft to get ahold on but it’s in and looks good enough!

A little tab on the hitch to mount the filling valves and viola! Everything sounds and feels good, I’ll have to get the trailer hooked on in the next day or so and figure out my PSI to level it out. Happy to have this wrapped up.

 

[Blomdala]

 

[Blomdala]

After our gilmer trip, my wife and I started a list of important next things for the truck. Her list was obviously much shorter lol. However, we were both in support of improved recovery options. After some financial foot work, I received my 13.5k 24v winch from pro winch.

Had to make a plate for mounting but thankfully I had enough plate leftover to make it without another trip to the steel yard. My goal was to keep it nice and low, with the fairlead just inside the bumper. This isn’t my “forever” bumper, but it’s really functional and I appreciate that about it.

after making the tray, I worked on how to fit the fairlead mount. I also was trying to do this without removing the bumper face as I am worried about rusted bolts that won’t go back in so well ha!

It went together pretty well, and even the nerve wracking job of cutting the hole where it should be ended up ok. I’m thinking I may do something with the edges of the hole (like an edge guard or topping it with 309 stainless to keep from rusting) but for now it’s good!

I also wanted to hide my relay box, but didn’t seem like it was worth the effort right now, maybe another time. Need to get something like a flat hook to keep things tidy while not used.

 

[Loober]

I was looking at the pro winches as well, cost diff between the 13.5 and 9k was minimal, is that why you went with 13.5? On the website they did not offer a synthetic rope option, did you do that after?

 

[Blomdala]

I was looking at the pro winches as well, cost diff between the 13.5 and 9k was minimal, is that why you went with 13.5? On the website they did not offer a synthetic rope option, did you do that after?

Yeah I got the 13.5k because it was another .5HP I think, and the dimensions of it are identical, plus it was like 30$ difference. Seemed like the right choice. Look it up on Amazon, they raised the price on their site, but from amazon its still 417$. You are right, they don't sell the 24V with synthetic, so I bought that separate and rewound it. I have soft hands so I don't want that steel cable

I will say, the wireless (with wired backup) remote is pretty neat, that's a first for me.

 

[Loober]

Cool thanks, can the solenoid be relocated easily?

 

[Blomdala]

Cool thanks, can the solenoid be relocated easily?

Yeah, it comes with a bracket to mount on top, and off to the side (how mine is). Its got about 6 inches of leads that need to go to the motor, which has to be on the LH side (under wound) to keep the warranty. It would have been better to be on the other side as the included power cables are about 12 in shy of our + terminal in my current setup. So I will probably get some heavy cable and make a manual discusonnect in the engine bay for it.

Over all though its a nice build, feels better than my smittybuilt I had in my 4runner ha!

 

[Loober]

At $400 its a bargain, especially when a comeup winch is 1000 without a wireless controller.

 

[Blomdala]

At $400 its a bargain, especially when a comeup winch is 1000 without a wireless controller.

Definitely, and with it being almost 3x the weight of my truck in capacity, I feel pretty good about buying off brand. Need to find some thing to test it with ha.

 

[Blomdala]

I recently completed my Technician class radio license, so I’ve been dabbling in radios and setups. I don’t ever plan on drilling a hole in my roof, and I already can’t put a roof rack on due to my garage opening clearance. After looking around I decided following Kurt’s 74 hood gap mount location. I have a little 19” 1/4wavw antenna that has good UHV/VHF reviews so I’m hopeful the location is good enough for me. Have leftover steel for the mount so no harm in the initial test location!

I did have to give it a little double sided tape on the inside and vinyl tape on the inside to protect the paint.

 

[Blomdala]

A little double sided tape and a good push and it’s in its first test position. I like the location, filling up dead space. Getting used to the radio, now to remember my call sign LOL.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

@Blomdala .... “Getting used to the radio, now to remember my call sign LOL”.
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I‘ve found that this helps.

 

[Blomdala]

finally finished up the wiring for the winch, I’ve been waiting on parts and the garage is so hot now that I have to mentally be ready as well ha.

I decided to change my battery terminal ends to make my connections more secure. I was hesitant to snip and put a lug on the negative side, but I think over all it’s an improvement. I haven’t changed the positive side but I may I’m the future.

It and some 2 ga wire for the winch plug, seems like the simplest solution to connect only when needed and not worry about it when not in use. I want to make a little cover for it all as well for some sun and elements protection. Still working on that plan ha.

My batteries also seem to be much smaller than my trays, and they are a few years old. I have had a few instances where after doing some key on cycles and then needing to start I the next day, it barely cranks. Not ideal. So I got some group 27 batteries ordered up for maximum potential. I wooo probably do a little testing on my alternator but I’m not expecting to find anything out or the ordinary there. Weak batteries are really my only symptom.

 

[Loober]

Double check your battery trays while you are in there and don't let this happen to you, like it did to this poor bastard.

PLEASE Check your battery trays

Today I experienced a very scary and unfortunate event that could have ended much worse. I was on a routine trip through a local desert in socal, called Borrego Springs, in my 77 series, with my 4 year old son. We were offroading on a fairly mild trail cruising along picking through a bumpy...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Blomdala]

Double check your battery trays while you are in there and don't let this happen to you, like it did to this poor bastard.

PLEASE Check your battery trays

Today I experienced a very scary and unfortunate event that could have ended much worse. I was on a routine trip through a local desert in socal, called Borrego Springs, in my 77 series, with my 4 year old son. We were offroading on a fairly mild trail cruising along picking through a bumpy...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'm sorry that happened, but I'll definitely give it a good inspection! And get my extinguisher mounted!