Builds First Land Cruiser - Locked 1994 FZJ80 (2 Viewers)

[Mad4Rnr]

Still haven’t finished the lift, wife said she wanted a new deck in the back yard so I’ve been slaving on that for the last few weekends. But today when the battery in my lawn tractor and my beater T100 died simultaneously I made a power move... The T100 got the Interstate that came with my 80 series and I picked up a new X2Power Premium AGM battery from Batteries Plus. This thing is super heavy... energy dense.

 

[auttiman]

It’s a 3x love connection! Congrats brotha.

3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.

 

[retrofive]

3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.

If you add a CDL button and do the pin 7 mod you will have full control of the center lock enabled or not in Hi and Low.

 

[TankTheLC]

Don't take the caster plate installation instructions lightly. You really do need that recommended drill to properly get in there and drill out for the Wits End plates. That are super nice, but it took significantly longer than expected. Love the build.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.

Typically the early FJ80's and the later FZJ80's that didn't come from the factory with diff lockers all came equipped with the Center Diff Lock (CDL) button. Like retrofive mentioned, many of us with the diff lockers want that extra control of the center diff so we install the CDL with the 7-pin mod. Mine is que'd up and ready to go once I finished this deck for the wifey....

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Don't take the caster plate installation instructions lightly. You really do need that recommended drill to properly get in there and drill out for the Wits End plates. That are super nice, but it took significantly longer than expected. Love the build.

You mean r-angle drill with a short jobber bit rather than knothcing the stock bracket with an angle-grinder?

Arn't the 2.5" doable with a grinder and the 4" plates the ones you do with the drill?

 

[TankTheLC]

You mean r-angle drill with a short jobber bit rather than knothcing the stock bracket with an angle-grinder?

Arn't the 2.5" doable with a grinder and the 4" plates the ones you do with the drill?

Thats a question for jason i guess, I thought you had to drill for the 2.5”. But I see how a grinder could work.

 

[ppc]

Typically the early FJ80's and the later FZJ80's that didn't come from the factory with diff lockers all came equipped with the Center Diff Lock (CDL) button. Like retrofive mentioned, many of us with the diff lockers want that extra control of the center diff so we install the CDL with the 7-pin mod. Mine is que'd up and ready to go once I finished this deck for the wifey....

That is not correct. The 91-92 models all came with the CDL button. The 93-97 models did not have the button but had a transfer case that has a viscous coupler. Front and rear axle diff lockers made no difference.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

After a three month delay working on other projects I finally got back to my rig. After stripping out the old front suspension I blasted the spring perches and installed the extended brake lines.

Then the Land tank caster plates right before welding and paint.

Then the Fox 2.0s and Dobinsons progressives, I’ll need some 30mm spacers for sure.

Dobinsons steering stabilizer and adjustable panhard.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Started off this morning installing new sway bar bushings front and rear.

Then up front I installed the Dobinsons 30mm spacers and Slee sway bar drop. I also installed new OEM axle-caliper brake lines.

Those spacers did the trick, sits nice now.

Here is the little chart Dobinsons gives you in the spring box, I’m a sucker for geaky things like this:

I was hoping to get it running today but I never got a chance to bleed the brakes. I spent too much time messing around trying to fix a sheared rear shock bolt. I screwed up and drilled the hole off center so now the extractor just grabs the female threads and binds up rather than unthreading the bolt.

It’s too deep to weld a nut to it. Any other suggestions, should I weld a short bolt to it?

 

[ppc]

Try heating it up good with a torch and try the extractor again. Failing that there still should be enough area to weld a nut. A bolt would have far less cross section and either break again or the weld would fail.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Left work a bit early today so I could run home to bleed the brakes and throw the wheels back on. She’s a tad stink bug in the rear but there’s no interior and no sliders or rear bumper yet.

Took it for a drive and I wasn’t disappointed but it does seem a bit loose in the rear end. I plan to rebuild the front end and get an alignment soon so I’ll check the caster angle, might also need to invest in the sway bar ball joints...

Also my White Nuckle sliders should be here soon, can’t wait to get some trail time.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Long time no post, had to finish a bunch of house projects which are finally now done! Now to catch up on the 80-series... since I lost a bunch of time and is like to get it on the trail soon I dropped the truck off at the local shop to rebuild the front axle with new seals & wipers and Longfield Cro-mo birfs & shafts. Also getting my A/C serviced, spare mounted, power steering pump rebuilt, new steering box lines and Marlin HD steering links installed. Should be done by the weekend so I can slap in the Whiteknuckle rock sliders...

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Truck has been running good except for the rebuilt power steering pump, it sequels really bad until it warms up, need to try bleeding it some more I guess. Also my bumpers showed up so time to get cutting.

Bolted up nice and easy.

Then I bolted up the spare carrier, too bad the didn’t ship my Jerry can basket.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

To fit the front bumper I had to grind on the top of the chassis rails and cut the bottom corners out of the core suppprt.

I also cut and bent the ac canister bracket to angle it out of the way.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Attached the top plates to the sliders,

These are set at 15deg

Forgot I had a skid plate buried in my garage just waiting to be installed

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Today I built up a Bowfin rack

Nice piece of gear

The truck is starting to come together now. Next step is to install my winch, OBA, alarm and wire the new stereo up....

 

[Mad4Rnr]

Some progress lately, finally welded up the hole for the rear heater.

Also got the alarm installed. I use to be a car audio installer, tried to remember all my old tricks.

 

[Mad4Rnr]

The last few weekends I’ve been trying to catch up on some busy work. Since it looked like the previous owner sprayed a 2-liter of soda all over the interior I scrubbed dash, all the panels and then the filthy head liner. I’ll spare you the pictures of the brown bucket water.

Then I wire wheeled a bit of bad paint in the rear cargo area and hit it with some matching rattle can white.

Then I laid down some Thermi Tec Cool-It thermal barrier / sound deadening mat in the foot wells.

When I ordered my carpet kit I also ordered some Aluminum lined padding, way better than the thin jute that came the kit. This stuff plus the Thermo Tec should keep the passengers feet cool and the cab quiet.

 

[tacocat]

Super nice rig. It’s turning out to be a really sano build (I need to drop some old hot rod speak).

What were the part number on your springs? I’m surprised you didn’t opt for tapered springs. The weight is getting up there.