firkken bloeeden frikken brakes : H E L P

[soggy60]

Now that I've shot thru my 2nd quart of brake fluid . . .
IF the master is not properly bled (was 'bench bled'), would that allow air to be sucked in 'behind' the M/C piston 'valve' ?



was doing two-man bleed (started with front cause that's the part I worked on, m/c was not replaced...but is pretty new looking....could a poor quality m/c allow air to be sucked in behind...like where bolted to booster ?

Would get little bubbles,,,,soda pop sized,,,,,even after 3rd 'coffee cup' voloume of purge....

Told person pumping,,,(after the 3rd cup) just keep on pumping...left bleeder cracked....never saw 'suck back'....but air bubbles almost became foamy....WTF ?

Is the 80 brake lines sooooo loooong, they take this much to bleed ?

(oh, the 'bench bleed of m/c was cause I thought maybe I bled m/c dry....it got really low....)

This is getting old....
. . .at wits end
. . . . .spending all my $ on brake fluid

TIA

Pete

 

[Squash]

Try not to panic, happened to me after relacing a b/o brake line but went away the next morning...do not ask me how or why, actually this happened twice, maybe it was the forget it till the next day syndrome?

Puzzles me still and the MC has never been changed, pedal was going right to the boards so I gave up.

Your assistant was holding the pedal to the floor while the bleeder was cracked...right

 

[Tools R Us]

The peddle needs to be pumped relatively slowly, smoothly, if pumped fast, the peddle slammed, can foam the fluid making the the job much harder. If it becomes foamed, the best plan is to allow it to sit awhile, overnight and start over.

The peddle should be pushed with normal stopping or less foot pressure. If pushed hard, the pressure difference between pumped up and released can cause foaming. I prefer the stream out of the bleeder to only come out about 2-3" before curving down. Your bleeding, not pressure washing or panic stopping.

The best method is to just crack the bleeder open and close it before the stream stops. With a nice gentle stream it easy to see it starting to slow and close it.

ABS systems have a bunch of volume, so are relatively hard to peddle bleed, much easier with a pressure or vacuum bleeder.

 

[soggy60]

Thanks for y'alls input . . .

 

[Poser]

Do not let the master cylinder reservoir become empty, or you get to start the bleeding procedure over again.

 

[Squash]

Not sure if you do this...leave the engine off, pump the pedal slowly but firmly, once your partner has firmed up the brake pedal you crack the bleeder slowly watching for a nice steady bubbless stream of fluid while your partner brings the pedal to the floor and holds it to the floor while you tighten the bleeder.
Repeat the steps till pedal is firm.

AS above:Keep Master full...

 

[jonheld]

This may be an old wives tale, but I never let the pedal go to the floor. I have heard that on an older MC if you go beyond typical travel you run the risk of damaging seals as that part of the piston is never used. I have never taken one apart so I don't know if that's true or not.

My method is to have someone apply steady pedal pressure (always engine off) while I open the bleeder valve. Pedal pressure should remain constant as if stopping the vehicle. Bleeder valve gets closed before pedal goes out of range. 2 or 3 pumps to draw fluid from the master and repeat. Slow and steady wins here. The key is to make sure the valve is closed before pedal pressure is released.

Many folks don't like the speed bleeders, but I have had good results from them.

 

[Beowulf]

This may be an old wives tale, but I never let the pedal go to the floor. I have heard that on an older MC if you go beyond typical travel you run the risk of damaging seals as that part of the piston is never used. I have never taken one apart so I don't know if that's true or not.

I am a believer in this wive's tale and use a 2x4 under the brake pedal to keep it from going to the floor if I am doing the 2-man bleed. There have been multiple reports here on 'Mud where someone had a working MC, bled the brakes by pumping to the floor, couldn't get rid of bubbles, replaced MC and all was good. Again, multiple reports of this story so I believe the wive's tale.

-B-

 

[Squash]

Great call on the 2x4, I believe and will do so as well.

 

[MARLIN375]

The 2X4 is a great idea.

It took me almost a whole liter of fluid to get mine done the last time (had to do it twice)

When I sucked air into my brake master I let it sit for half an hour then cracked and bled the highest line into the dist. block on the fender and bled the system after that. It actually worked, and saved me from pumping the air all the way to the rear to get it out.

one thing for sure I had nice clean fluid and a solid pedal when it was done.

 

[Michael Hanson]

I hook up a vaccum pump to each fitting with another person keeping the master filled. Mike

 

[soggy60]

Thanks to all . . .

All try the 2x4 trick . . ..cause helper was 'all the way' to the floor....

Brakes do work, just seems to be a loooong pedal travel before I get good braking....

something else I'm gonna try (in addition to more bleeding), adj the rears....to where I just hear rubbing when rotating the tire....on the 60 (I've had for 22 yr) it always makes a nice 'high pedal' ( 3 inches travel to tight brakeing power...

Thanks everybody . . .


Oh, I know...DON'T LET M/C GO DRY....

Pete

 

[MARLIN375]

I hook up a vaccum pump to each fitting with another person keeping the master filled. Mike

Did you have to put teflon tape around the threads on your bleeders. When I tried the pump thing (hand pump) I kept sucking air past the threads.

 

[Beowulf]

All try the 2x4 trick . . ..cause helper was 'all the way' to the floor...adj the rears....to where I just hear rubbing when rotating the tire

Just don't forget to remove it before the test drive!

Do you have rear drums?

-B-

 

[alby_39]

When bleeding brakes allways start at the furtherest bleed screw, in your case right hand rear.having done the brakes on my mate's 80 series pov pack yesterday. Also I got him to pump the brakes 3 times in sucsession and then hold the pedal down till I had retightened the bleed screw.

 

[onewhippedpuppy]

I've seen the "pedal to the floor = bad MC" happen on a variety of car forums. I think there's a lot of truth to it.

Spend $50 and get a Motive Pressure Bleeder. After you use it you'll wonder why in the hell you wasted all of that time bleeding the "old fashioned way". It's an incredible tool and worth every penny. Plus you can use it on any car (with the right adapter), not just the Land Cruiser.