Firewall removal. Has anyone done it? (1 Viewer)

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I'm in the process of removing a Frankenstein tub on my 71 fj40 and replacing it with a nice tub from a 66.
I'm going to have to do some cutting and retro fitting to make some things fit like the pedal bucket from the 71. So I'm toying with the idea of cutting out the firewall & foot wells in one piece from both tubs and swapping them.
Has anybody tried this and if so, is there anything special I need to know before I start slicing away?
 
You may be better off just cutting out the sections you need and patching them in, less welding and touch-up. Not to mention you can change the dimensions of the tub if a mistake is made.
 
I guess that's an option but I don't want to end up with one hacked up tub. Although the one on the frame now is already hacked.
 
It appears there is a continuos seam running all the way around from one outside corner of the foot well to the other side.
 
Bad thing about cutting out patches is that they have to be welded in the exact spot on the other firewall otherwise things won't line up right.
 
I have seen cowls for sale on here, they were cut on the seem you have noted. Will the '71 cowl match the '66 tub? I don't know that answer, but I'm sure some of the gurus on here would know what changed in that area between those years, if anything did.
Well the brake master cyl. Changed to a. Four bolt pattern with a booster, the passages for the heater blower is different. I will take some measurements today but I think it's doable. The seam runs from the base of the footwell up and around the top of the firewall just under the lip where the back of the hood rests when closed, and down to the other side.
I'll post some pics later.
 
I thought you were talking about the whole cowl, but you are looking at just the firewall panel itself? It shouldn't be that difficult for those of you that can do metal work (I can't weld nor do I have a place to weld). Good luck with your adventure...I know it will be one :D

:cheers:
Skip
 
This is the seam I'm talking about.
Both firewalls are the same width at 55"
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
I thought you were talking about the whole cowl, but you are looking at just the firewall panel itself? It shouldn't be that difficult for those of you that can do metal work (I can't weld nor do I have a place to weld). Good luck with your adventure...I know it will be one :D

:cheers:
Skip
Thank you for the well wishes.
 
image.jpg
I will start by cutting out the pedal bucket from the 66. Unfortunately it's welded in and not bolted like the later years.
I will post my progress as I go.
 
Lots of spotwelds. Use the pedal buckets from the newer firewall to help line it up. Steering column changes as well. I only did a section but not super difficult. U will b tired of drilling.
 
I think cutting through the seam weld along the top of the firewall will be the most time consuming.
 
Hey mydogpea,
If you are going to swap tubs, there is a section of cowl on your 71 I would be interested in. The right hand side heater vent section. That is if it's not dented or creased in any way. Rust is fine as long as it's not pin holed. PM me if you would be interested in cutting that part out for me, and how much you want for it.

I concur with others that you will be drilling a LOT of spot welds. It can be done. I basically took my entire rear body apart by drilling out the spot welds. It you have not done so, get the spot weld cutting tool that EastWood sells. It really speed up drilling them out.
 
Wouldnt it be easier to literally cut one fw out and glue the other one in? When we did mine the cut down the rockers was just under the bottom door hinge towards the back a little. Theres is a factory seam there. All thats left is a couple cuts across the floor and youre ready to fit the new firewall.

We used the body mounts and the tranny tunnel to line everything back up.

Im talking about the whole dealie cowl and all not just the literal firewall section.

D
 
If the cowl on the 71 is intact, I agree with darwink. Swapping the whole cowl is relatively simple. As a precaution , before cutting the old cowl loose,
build a "spreader' that bolts in at the top of the door jam. When you attach the new cowl use it to set the width of the door opening
 
I already have all the upper spot welds removed without drilling. I was able to slide a putty knife in between the panels to create a small gap with just enough room to use a cutting disc to slice each one. I used a sawzall on the curved part of the cowl.
Almost there.
 
Hey mydogpea,
If you are going to swap tubs, there is a section of cowl on your 71 I would be interested in. The right hand side heater vent section. That is if it's not dented or creased in any way. Rust is fine as long as it's not pin holed. PM me if you would be interested in cutting that part out for me, and how much you want for it.

I concur with others that you will be drilling a LOT of spot welds. It can be done. I basically took my entire rear body apart by drilling out the spot welds. It you have not done so, get the spot weld cutting tool that EastWood sells. It really speed up drilling them out.
I most likely will be cutting that section out and welding it on the 66. I'll let you know if I don't though.
 
i would love to see pictures of this, good luck

when you weld this thing up make sure you seal it good to prevent any leaks!
 

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