Finishing Up After Head Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[Perovich]

I tend to be long-winded so I'll keep this as short as possible.

I just got my cylinder head back after some extensive (5 month) down-time from working on my truck. Decided to gut the emissions crap (smog pump, EGR, the fustercluck of vacuum tubing, etc. etc.) while I had it out.

Now I don't remember how anything goes back together.

I've got the cylinder head torqued down correctly, new gaskets for everything, new valves, seats, springs, the works (OEM). Got the oil galley checked. Pretty much everything is mounted/installed but the air filter/box.

I ordered and installed the EGR blockoff plate and air rail plugs from JimC (thanks again, man).
Now two things are bothering me:
1.) While I was waiting on the blockoff for the exhaust manifold, my dad got the piece coming from the EGR to the Exhaust manifold welded shut on both sides. I know you can weld the side shut that comes from the EGR, but what about that side that comes from Cylinder 6, over the head, and into the Intake Manifold? What do I do with this pipe sticking out the side of the block now?

Blue is the one I think is fine to block off, red is not so sure:



2.) I'm noticing that there's an empty hole in my block, and I can't figure out or remember what went there. I looked back through some older pictures I took, and installed a piece into the hole nearest the firewall (blue) that connects over to the left side of the engine bay, and forks off into the firewall itself.

But the other hole (red) remains empty. Not sure what went there, but I thought it was a ground of some sort? Any clarification on this would be appreciated; I can't find it in Hayne's, Chilton's, or online.


Thanks in advance for any advice I get, getting anxious to get her up and running (well) again.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

do NOT block the pipe you circled in red in nthe first picky. it is for the PCV, and you need this. it connects to the red circled thing in the second pic. the third pic is where the engine temp sender and emissions temp sensor go; can't remember which one lives in front.,.,

 

[Output Shaft]

The temperature sender is normally installed in the front threaded hole in the top of the block (circled in red in your third picky).
The heater hose adapter fitting screws into the rear hole (circled in blue in the third picky).

The picture below shows how it should go...though the rear heater elbow pipe off of the heater hose fitting had been removed and plugged in the picture below.

 

[Perovich]

Thanks for the help with the temp sender. That's now installed.
Ghetto-rigged the PCV outlet with a hose and fuel filter so it could ventilate properly. The inlet to the intake manifold from the PCV was completely blocked with carbon, so at the very least, it's better than it was before.

Went to start it up this morning after topping fluids off, and triple-checking vacuum hose set-up after de-smogging it and got some pretty saddening results. I'm getting spark from the coil, distributor, plugs, et. all and I'm also getting fuel going to the carb. So one would think that fuel+spark=ignition?

Anyways, we started to notice a pretty large build-up of unspent gasoline pooling underneath the carburetor, and at the below spots. The one in blue worries me the most - it feels like the underside sort of ramps up as it nears the edge. Also, what do I do with the one in the green? I'm pretty sure I can just cap that, right?


After a few turns of the key, we figured something was up, so I'll be taking the carb off tomorrow and making sure everything is alright.
Took a quick video if that helps at all.


Thanks!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the pcv port at the intake needs to be plumbed to the pcv valve in the push rod cover, not to a fuel filter to where ever you are routing it to. having the pcv not plumbed correctly could cause a huuuuuge vacuum leak and all sorts of trouble. find the thread called my desmog thread, by Fowldar, and plumb your motor to those very exacting specs. just disconnecting the emissions stuff is not a desmog, and is not going to allow for a happy running motor. you very much need several of those vacuum lines, and the PCV most definetely needs to be hooked up right.

 

[Slow Left]

Is that how the starter is supposed to sound when cranking??

 

[tag3]

Is that how the starter is supposed to sound when cranking??

Don't think the engine is even turning over.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

it doesn't sound like typical cranking against compression...do the belts turn while cranking?

 

[Slow Left]

It kinda sounds like the electric motor on the starter was 'slipping'...if that is even possible...

 

[Sawz]

That starter doesnt sound likes its engaging the flywheel gears maybe bendix issues

 

[Slow Left]

That starter doesnt sound likes its engaging the flywheel gears maybe bendix issues

So, maybe the bendix spring isn't seeing enough resistance to 'grab' and fully engages the pinion gear to the flywheel?

But I'm not seeing a bendix type spring in the FJ60 parts diagram I found on Google (I didn't post it here because it might be the wrong one)...it shows a part called a 'clutch', tho.
Is it possible that FJ60 OEM starter has a different type of system to engage/disengage the starter gear?

Or maybe the OP's starter is aftermarket with a bendix type system?

 

[Slow Left]

Anyways, we started to notice a pretty large build-up of unspent gasoline pooling underneath the carburetor, and at the below spots. The one in blue worries me the most - it feels like the underside sort of ramps up as it nears the edge.

It's not clear what parts you are referring to with the blue and red markings...What parts are they? Or post a better picture?

Have you found the source of the gasoline leak?

If not, you might check the Secondary Slow Cut Valve assembly (see image below). Gasoline can leak through plunger of the valve...

 

[Perovich]

Thought I'd post a response - even if it's this far after the fact - of what was wrong, in case anyone finds themselves in a similar situation.

I should've thought of this earlier, but after having the head rebuilt, new valves, springs, etc... the valve clearances using the old rocker arms kept the valves open at all times, so the engine was getting 0 or next to 0 compression. Hence the starter motor turning over the engine with no ignition with both spark and fuel being delivered.

Did a quick and dirty valve adjustment just to get her running, and she's firing on all 6 cylinders now (up from 4 before the rebuild).


Question - Now that I've had it running for a week or so, I did a hot valve adjustment to follow up on the cold adjustment I did prior. I'm still reading 0.008 on Intake and 0.014 on Exhaust with my feeler gauges but I'm hearing a LOT of valve lash between idle and ~2000 RPM. The idle also sounds like complete .

After having removed all the emissions garbage, do I need to toy with the idle adjustment screw? I'll have a video up shortly so you can hear it, but it sounds awful at idle.

Thanks again for the input, it's much appreciated. Slowly but steadily starting to learn the ins and outs of this truck.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

what kind of vacuum does it pull at idle? what is the timing set to? did you do a lean drop adjustment? have you retorqued the head?

 

[Output Shaft]

....so you can hear it, but it sounds awful at idle.

The very first thought that came to mind the instant I heard your motor at idle was.... I've heard that before.
It sounds like a leaking EGR valve or big vacuum leak.
That may not be the problem for your rough idle... but that is exactly what mine sounds like when the EGR valve gets stuck open at idle.... before it eventually stalls.
Check engine vacuum with a vacuum gauge at idle as LAMBCRUSHER recommended. Should be near 20 at sea level.
Also it can't hurt to connect a separate length of vacuum hose to the top of the EGR valve and blow hard with your mouth to make sure it is seated. You can also suck a little air to see that it works at all. The engine will stumble (more) when the EGR valve opens.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Sounds like leaky manifold gasket, audible exhaust leaks and rough idle.