Finished Installing Icon Stage 1 and TJM 50mm Heavy (1 Viewer)

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Truck measures 77-1/2" tall with a straight edge across the middle two roof ribs. Factory rack has been removed. FYI - My garage door opening is 82-1/2" leaving me 5" to work with between the Prinsu rack and the new tires.
 
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35's and the prinsu rack should fit the bill! I have the same problem.
It looks like the Prinsu rack will be about 1-3/4" and the new tires about 1-1/2" from the axle leaving me with about 1-3/4" remaining. Cutting it close but that's enough room to clear. Just need to validate that 6' 10" is an accommodating height at most public parking garages!
 
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Already had the spacers and should that extra 1" be the deciding factor in larger tires, I can always pull em out. :)
 
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Most garages around here are 6'6-8" and after my OME heavies and GG AT2 I can no long fit in the work garage so outside oversized parking is where it sits now. Just because it says 6'10" doesn't mean the ramps will yield that when going down, I almost found out the hard way.
 
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Good point, I need to go measure a few of the more common garages and see what fits and what sticks!
 
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how about your front drive shaft? any vibration or grinding noise at this point?
 
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I do have a nasty vibration just off idle at freeway speeds, sounds like a plastic bucket rattling against something. It wasn't there before. I checked to see if the fan was hitting the shroud, no indication that it is. I found the inner heat shield on the exhaust Y-pipe is rattly, that may be the culprit. I'm thinking all my worn control arm bushings may be the issue as there's more stress on them now and I may be picking up more road vibration than before. I'm arranging to have CBT put my caster plates on with new control arm bushings and that should take care of a lot of the vibration I hope. I don't have the money to replace the exhaust right now but it's on the list too.
 
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Installed the sway bars tonight and the truck feels normal again, no sway! I banged everything underneath around the Y-pipe with a rubber mallet and there's a lot of rattle in the exhaust shield, the cat shield and the cruise control box.

I'm thinking once the caster bushings and plates are in the noise will go away, I think stress on the bushings is getting more road vibration carrying into the rattling areas.
 

AutoCraft Aus

Araco Master
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May 20, 2008
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Between the bay and the Ocean Vic Aus.
Im tipping the noise will get worse ;)

Grease your unis in the front tailshaft, see if it gets better worse, or the same.

Did this kit come with sway bar spacers to stop the tailshaft touching the sway bar?

The Stahe 1 Icons are 670mm ong so they do need a spacer between the sway bar rubber and the link for clearance of about 1.5" usually.

3306_zps2c218837.jpg
 
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Installed the sway bars again with the spacers from Slee last night. U joints and shafts are greased. The vibration is inconsistent and seems to be resonating, doesn't appear to be grinding joints. It only comes at certain speeds when I feather the throttle, just off idle. I turned off the engine and coasted from 70 mph and the noise came then faded out. Not engine related but definitely a vibration of some sort.
 
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Spool in the TC and manual hubs. Put in Bobby longfield birfs and didn't want premature wear. During winter I lock the hubs and then lock the diff when the roads are crappy or I feel I need the extra traction.
 
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Yup, replacing worn OEM rubber control arm bushings and installing caster correction plates. No caster bushings.
 

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