F'ing FJ rear Brakes

swank60

swank60

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Not only do I get to take apart the carb every couple of weeks, but I get to adjust the rear brakes just as often. It's the FJ60 version of having the trots and throwing up at the same time...I've got trouble at both ends...

I changed the rear shoes about a month or two ago, and after much trouble and adjustment, I finally just loosened up the brakes further than I even felt safe doing last time around, and it was just fine...here in the last few days, they've started dragging again on the rear drums - seems like both sides, too.

What gives? If it's just going to go tighter and tighter, and adjust it's self, when will it stop? All of the components look to bee in good order, everything is put back together correctly (well...)

What am I doing wrong?
 
cruiser_guy

cruiser_guy

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My money is on the bell crank for the emergency brake. You'll need to take apart and clean/grease the bell crank mechanism on each side as best as you can. After you've done that get used to using the emergency brake each time you park to keep the bell crank free moving.
 
cruiser_guy

cruiser_guy

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I'll bet the e-brake is working too fine!! Crawl under the truck and see if the bell cranks on each wheel are actually releasing. That's where the e-brake cable connects to. If you have the e-brake off you should be able to easily move the bell crank on each side. If you cannot move it or the stopper bolt is not touching the backing plate do the bell cranks (it's a very common '60's problem). The cast bell crank had a stainless insert in it that rusts between the insert and casting thus pinching the bellcrank. Take it apart and you'll see what I mean.
 
swank60

swank60

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No go on the emergency brake lines/cables/bell housing. They all checked out and moved freely.

I went ahead and backed off even more on the star-gear for now and will take it in to someone in the future. I'm tired of jacking the thing up.
 
F

fsusteve

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Cruiser-guy probably knows more about 60's than me, but just a guess, are you replacing the hardware/springs when you do the brake jobs?
 
cruiser_guy

cruiser_guy

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Are you using OEM shoes or another brand (I have found the OEM to be cheaper than aftermarket most times!!)? If it's another brand maybe they do not have the correct curve. I've never had/hear of problems with the rear brakes other than the bell crank issue which I have experienced twice so far.
 
swank60

swank60

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To answer the above questions - I did use aftermarket shoes, but I checked their curve to the old ones and it was the same.

I didn't replace the springs, but they all seemed to be in good shape. In fact, the old shoes weren't that bad - one side was coated in grease from a blown bearing seal, so I was getting some weird fade. I should have just cleaned them up and left them alone, but I figured, hey, I'm here, I've got shoes...

And I can check the bell cranks again, but they really did move freely - or seemed to. Also, there wasn't any visible crude or rust at all (I live in Texas and we've been really dry this year) I may get some brake cleaner spray and soak it all down. Logically, that would be the problem, being that it gradually starts dragging. I just don't understand how the 'auto adjuster' bit works...

ugh

Thanks for all the so far.
 
swank60

swank60

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File this one under the "you were right, I was wrong" catagory. Climbed up under my rig last night, wiggled the e-brake arm, same results as before - reached up under and grabbed a cable for a good yank and released the e-brakes. I pulled one of the wheels off and flushed the bell housing with brake cleaner and it works nice and smooth again...I'll get the other wheen tonight some time (when the temp drops below, I dunno, 125...like midnight.)

I was pulling on the wrong thing. Insert dirty joke here.
 

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