Finally starting my LQ9 Swap-In California🤦‍♂️ (1 Viewer)

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The place I use hasn't required the advanced emissions testing yet on the swaps I've done. The local community collage has a guy who does the certification for the ARB here. The last swap I did was three years ago. One of my buddies had an LS motor put in his TJ up north two years ago. The inspector was a jerk. They made him jump through hoops before certifying it and advanced testing. There was no reason for it, the conversion was done exact.
The only time I've seen issues down here is when someone tries to "sneak" a mod in, things aren't labeled correctly or you don't have the paperwork on the doner car.

I really wish I had the money to do this to mine.


Where are you using, Chaffey College?
 
I think I've got my AC system figured out. I. Going to make my own custom lines. About $150 in hose a drier and fittings and the crimper is $120. Couldn't find any shops that would do it for less then $300. I also ordered a new evaporator core and expansion valve. Probably didn't need them but they are basically the last two components away from having an entirely new ac system. I also machined the support bracket for the compressor. It is relocated up .150" and closer to the block by .200. gives me about a quarter of an inch from the frame, I believe that should be good since it is level with the mounts I don't think the engine would be able to move enough for it to contact.

I also started her up and she runs! For like 3 seconds... Which is what I expected. I sent the ECU out to have the VATS removed and I should be good to go.
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I'm really curious to know how your visit with the referee goes.

From what I've heard recently, they've pretty much put the kabosh on ANY swaps here in CA, by ridiculous requirements; even the E-Rod package.

Again, no first hand knowledge, but REPUTABLE industry folks, including our own Cruiser guru up in Stockton.

The info I had been fed was that NO MODIFICATION to the ECU was permitted, INCLUDING a simple removal of the trans codes to facilitate a different transmission; the transplant of the ENTIRE closed loop EVAP system, AS DESIGNED by GM (meaning the donor fuel TANK, and every hose & line, in it's original length) from the donor vehicle, among other things.

Yeah, because a stripped down LS is going to pollute so much more than my 300K mi 3FE 🙄.

It drives me NUTS. The nonsense ISN'T about saving the environment and reducing emissions, otherwise you'd be able to run WHATEVER you wanted, so long as it had a reduction in emissions from the original configuration in the vehicle.

PLEASE!!!!! Keep us updated on your experience with the BAR referee.

I would really like to do the swap, as just basic repairs on my old 3FE has hit quadruple digits this year. The swap would pay for itself in short time.
 
Although, I was curious, when you machined that angle into the exhaust manifolds, was there enough slop in the bolt holes; or did you have to enlarge/angle those as well.

Might be something to keep an eye on, for potential premature exhaust leaks down the road.
 
The info I had been fed was that NO MODIFICATION to the ECU was permitted, INCLUDING a simple removal of the trans codes to facilitate a different transmission; the transplant of the ENTIRE closed loop EVAP system, AS DESIGNED by GM (meaning the donor fuel TANK, and every hose & line, in it's original length) from the donor vehicle, among other things.

My last swap was three years ago now. All of mine had modified PCM's, modded tanks, graphed the evap system in. Basically complete stand alone with trans. No issues down here so far.... One of my buds had an issue up north but we think the ref was just being a jerk.
I hope things didn't change. Like you said, we are making it better so, why not.
 
I'm really curious to know how your visit with the referee goes.

From what I've heard recently, they've pretty much put the kabosh on ANY swaps here in CA, by ridiculous requirements; even the E-Rod package.

Again, no first hand knowledge, but REPUTABLE industry folks, including our own Cruiser guru up in Stockton.

The info I had been fed was that NO MODIFICATION to the ECU was permitted, INCLUDING a simple removal of the trans codes to facilitate a different transmission; the transplant of the ENTIRE closed loop EVAP system, AS DESIGNED by GM (meaning the donor fuel TANK, and every hose & line, in it's original length) from the donor vehicle, among other things.

Yeah, because a stripped down LS is going to pollute so much more than my 300K mi 3FE 🙄.

It drives me NUTS. The nonsense ISN'T about saving the environment and reducing emissions, otherwise you'd be able to run WHATEVER you wanted, so long as it had a reduction in emissions from the original configuration in the vehicle.

PLEASE!!!!! Keep us updated on your experience with the BAR referee.

I would really like to do the swap, as just basic repairs on my old 3FE has hit quadruple digits this year. The swap would pay for itself in short time.
The E-Rod engine is already certified and comes with a Carb sticker so no inspection from the Referee is required. I have seen lots of people pass using stock Toyota tanks. You just have to use the Evap components and need a GM level indication for the ECU or else the Evap will not run. It is a requirement to use the trans from the donor vehicle. All these items are outlined in Engine Change guidelines from the state. I already talked to the referee. It sounds as they are pretty much making sure no performance modifications were made and all the original emissions equipment is installed and functioning. Then just just perform a normal smog check.
Although, I was curious, when you machined that angle into the exhaust manifolds, was there enough slop in the bolt holes; or did you have to enlarge/angle those as well.

Might be something to keep an eye on, for potential premature exhaust leaks down the road.
I machined washers with a slight angle so the bolt heads sit flush. The factory holes were all oversized enough where the bolts went through at a slight angle. I will monitor it but I do not believe it will be an issue.
 
I got the AC system all finish including a new Evaporator, expansion valve, and condenser. I had to machine some of the old fittings and braze the ends. Then I crimped all the lines with the fittings I ordered. I have it pressurized right now with 300 PSI of nitrogen and sprayed all my connections down with soapy water. Had one brazed fitting I had to redo but everything else was good.
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My favorite part about making the new AC lines is the stupid dryer doesn't hang down below my bumper anymore.... Come on Toyota! What were they thinking 😂. She runs great for having no O2 sensors or MAF sensor. I cleaned up and secured all the wiring in then engine bay. I ordered an aftermarket air filter that is EO approved because that stupid stock intake tube with the gigantic resonators just wasn't going to fit.
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Well I got sidetracked hardcore. My wife had our second kid and it has been keeping me pretty busy. She has been graciously affording me some time here and there to go out and get a few things done.

Exhaust is in
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My axles had surface rust my sway bars and links had surface rust. On top of it my bushings were all shot, so I removed my axles and all links from the truck and got to work on my sidetrack project. I sand blasted the axles and sway bars as well as the links all clean then coated them with POR15. Then I installed a new bushing kit from Super Pro out of Australia.
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Another issue I had that needed to be corrected was my lower rear control arms were both bent bad from playing in rocks. They were the older style arms with cast steel ends to I cut off the old tubing and replaced it with 2" 1/4" wall DOM that I already had on hand in the shop.
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I didn't take any pictures but in rotating the axles around while cleaning I found that I had a leaking 3rm member seal on the top so I ended up pulling the front axle apart to fix it at the same time I did a full knuckle rebuild. I just got everything bolted back in. I also installed some slee caster plates as I didn't feel the correction bushing did enough. I just finished getting the axle back together today.
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I also made a bracket to mount an air tank that just fit in between the frame rails behind the ARB front bumper. I got it all plumbed up with the onboard york 210 pump and might I say I will never use a dumb electric pump again. Even twin VIAIR compressors that I installed on my fj40 come no where near the output that the york does.
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york 210 pump and might I say I will never use a dumb electric pump again. Even twin VIAIR compressors that I installed on my fj40 come no where near the output that the york does.
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^^^^^

Yep.

It's a bit of trouble and expense to put a York System on a vehicle....BUT there is nothing like them for serious output.

I've been running one on my Early Model Bronco for about 20 years. I use it to power air tools and air up tractor tires here on the ranch. IMO it's not needed for the average guy that is only going to air up a mattress or float toys while at the lake or bring tire pressure back up after off-roading. But if you need/want REAL air power and output for yourself or to help others...then the YORK system is the way to go.

They last forever and are so easy to work on if anything is needed, built like a tank.

Got a few sitting in my shop I need to put on other vehicles. Maybe put one on my 80 series. Not sure we need one on the Wife's LX470/

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