After a month and a half of talking to @Ben edwards shes finally here! More pics to follow. Shout out to Ben for answering all my noob questions and being super patient and making this a smooth purchase!
Early 1969 FJ40 - Learning as I go (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tubbster85
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Its a late 1968 build and pre vin plate on door opening which started 3/69.
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That's a sweety. Like an addiction to a willowy red head, I'm addicted to early 40's.
Downey
SILVER Star
I'm thinking I would probably remove the front ball mount, replace the front bumper with something shorter and stronger, remove the rest of the column shift linkage, then just drive the wheels off that sucker.
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- #8
Came with an original bumper, plan to do that soon!
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First things on the list are to fix the rear hatch handle and wiper switch which @Ben edwards already bought a new ones for it and fix the speedo, which bounces like crazy.
navydivedoc
SILVER Star
Looks great. No Paint!
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My family is thinking I’m crazy for not wanting to paint it. I come from having fairly nice Mustangs to this. I told my wife I wanted something I’m not going to constantly worry about and something I could work on with my daughter.
Ocho77
SILVER Star
Congrats! Such a sweet truck.
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
Awesome! @Ben edwards , was this on a car carrier Friday? If so I saw it at a gas station in Post Falls next to Cabelas!
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It was picked up Friday so it may have been
Yes, I sold this sweet 1969 to feed the rebuild on my 1978 fj40. I am excited to see it go to someone that appreciates its originality and wants to keep it in the PNW.
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So some conflicting info on forum. Some say prop rod goes on the rad support, some say firewall. I found where others have put their prop rod on the radiator support, which works. I can’t find anywhere where it would go into on the firewall.
She does need a bath. I can tell it went over the cascade passes in snow, even though it was on a trailer..
Discovered that the passenger front turn signal doesn’t blink when headlights are on. The indicator on the dash just stays lit. Gotta love electrical stuff! Also, which Ben already told me about, gonna have to replace the wiper switch, which he also sourced.
The rear lift gate struts won’t hold the the gate open. Are they adjustable? I looked and found that people just source gas struts and stick em in, may do that.
She started right up on the trailer!
She does need a bath. I can tell it went over the cascade passes in snow, even though it was on a trailer..
Discovered that the passenger front turn signal doesn’t blink when headlights are on. The indicator on the dash just stays lit. Gotta love electrical stuff! Also, which Ben already told me about, gonna have to replace the wiper switch, which he also sourced.
The rear lift gate struts won’t hold the the gate open. Are they adjustable? I looked and found that people just source gas struts and stick em in, may do that.
She started right up on the trailer!
The rear hatch arms are not gas charged struts. Take the upper part and turn them righty tighty to hold the hatch up.
the Hood prop is best placed on engine block behind upper thermostat housing.
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Before I would worry about the front bumper I would remove that trailer hitch off the back. Highest point on a two track trail is the center. Besides getting hung up on things hitting hard enough and can bend the rear frame member. Dealing with a bent frame member on a FJ40 because a PO had a hitch that dropped below the frame. Fixing the front frame rails that stick pass the front frame crossmember is nothing compared to the back frame member.
On the rear hatch the spot on the handle where it locks is the weakest part. I press the hatch in as hard as I can with one hand to release the pressure on the side latches then lift the handle. Handle with last a lost longer that ways. If you want the rear hatch to rattle as little as possible you need pressure on the side latches. Using the handle by itself takes a toll on it.
Would be curious of the day. 40 series I've had the longest is a early 68. It has tall hood bumpers that are a single level not stepped. Air cleaner has the port for a air pump like this one. 69 did not have a air pump. My 68 only has a single pulley HB. And ports for the air rail in the head I believe have factory installed plugs. Mine is a 9/67 and think it was possible one of the first 68s headed to the US and did not have the complete air pump setup. It was first registered 11/67 in AZ. Curious if yours is a very early 69 with a few of the air pump parts like the site cleaner on it. Specter Off Road has a VIN date charge back to 64 on they site.
On the rear hatch the spot on the handle where it locks is the weakest part. I press the hatch in as hard as I can with one hand to release the pressure on the side latches then lift the handle. Handle with last a lost longer that ways. If you want the rear hatch to rattle as little as possible you need pressure on the side latches. Using the handle by itself takes a toll on it.
Would be curious of the day. 40 series I've had the longest is a early 68. It has tall hood bumpers that are a single level not stepped. Air cleaner has the port for a air pump like this one. 69 did not have a air pump. My 68 only has a single pulley HB. And ports for the air rail in the head I believe have factory installed plugs. Mine is a 9/67 and think it was possible one of the first 68s headed to the US and did not have the complete air pump setup. It was first registered 11/67 in AZ. Curious if yours is a very early 69 with a few of the air pump parts like the site cleaner on it. Specter Off Road has a VIN date charge back to 64 on they site.
