F'in drive shafts (1 Viewer)

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EarthX

Owner of Earth Exploration Technologies
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
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Location
Lake Arrowhead
So i just broke my front drive shaft. I was running it in front wheel drive due to the rear shaft that broke a few weeks ago. So now the front shaft, and not only that, but it hit the transmision pan causeing a leak. The sad part is that right now it only sees only highway driving! So what the crap?!?! Does any one know of a better shaft u-joint combo? My 60 is SOA and a chevy V8 with the 4l60e. It 'was' running shafts from Tom Woods. Any info would help. Thanks
 
Need more info on where it broke. And where the back one broke, and how.

Don't know anything about Tom Woods, but my 5.7 Vortec/4L60E/SUA/4.10s/35s only bent a rear shaft when my idiot ex-employee did neutral drops in it until he blew the spiders & side gears in the SF.

Bet Woods would beef 'em up for you so you wouldn't diss 'em.
 
I have my factory drive shaft in my setup 2H + H55F + Tcase Marks under drive + 4.56 + 37" + chains .. with no problems ..

did you have pics of your borken drive shaft . ?
 
This is where they went bad..........
driveshaftpicmud1.jpg
driveshaftpic mud2.jpg
driveshaftpicmud3.jpg
 
am I looking aat both ends there???

is that the stock toy cv?

and HOW manyh weeks were you driving in fwd??????
 
the first pic is just the trans damage....then the pic below that is the front cv, which is hard to see.......the third pic there is the rear yoke....and in the second post, the rear again.....They are not stock toy cvs, i belive they are a 1310? i may be wrong....I only drove it for a few weeks in front wheel drive and i was easy on it....
 
stock toy is FAR superior to a 1310.. more so in the CV category...
 
do you have the correct u-joints in your d-shafts?
 
Nope, they are 1310..

:flipoff2:
 
Additionally, he probable bound them up at one point and damaged the strapping


How bout a pic of ride height and pinion angles..
 
Mor4wd said:
....I only drove it for a few weeks in front wheel drive and i was easy on it....


and during this time, you could not come up with a rear shaft????


:rolleyes:





does not look as though a grease gun has seen those joints in some time...




I guess this is just more proof as to why you do not do this....




Good luck!


-Steve
 
I was 4 wheeling with a guy on the Rubicon this year who broke a Tom Woods shaft in exactly the same way. The casting simply broke-It could not handle the torque. When we examined it, the casting was actually very thin-you know, Jeep sized.
 
guy guys guys........don’t let the bad pictures give you the wrong impression......both of the shafts were no more that 5 months old......and they DO se plenty of grease. The reason im not running the Toyota cvs is due to the steep angle.......and the pinions are set up right! Like cruiserdrew just said, the casting is very thin and im looking for something stronger.......the pictures are bad again I know.....but it’s what I have.....
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
 
Poser said:
1350 should work just fine ;)


HIGH ANGLE DRIVELINE


RedAxle-05.jpg





:beer:
Thanks for the link!
The guys at Tom Woods did mention the 1350s but they also said i would need to have a custom billet adapter made to connect to the toyota transfer case?
 
Not really,

But couple of things here.

Your rear shaft, was that a CV as well?? The pinion is at the wrong angle if it was. Looking back I really want to say it was not at the correct angle no matter what type of DS you have.

Secondly, the stock Toy stuff can be made to have some pretty steep angles.

Third, 1350 tends to have horrible angularity. I kinda doubt that it would work in your application.

Call Jess at highangle. I am POSITIVE that he can make all your wishes come true..

BTW, what happened to the stock driveshafts?? You should have just made them fit..
No adapters needed.
 

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