Field replacment of a birfield (1 Viewer)

[IBCRUSN]

Buckru's got the right idea. The only change in how I change them on the trail or in camp is to leave the outer snap-ring on until the knuckle and birf is off, then remove it. I also don't recall removing the ABS sensor but mine is more of a grease plug since my ABS is inop. I've done it both ways and much prefer removing the whole knuckle/spindle/hub assembly as it saves a considerable amount of time. Not only is it a time saver but it requires less tools and you'll contaminate fewer greased parts.

To make it even easier remove a section of the brake dust shield from the 5-7 o'clock area and it will make reinstallation of the steering arm much easier and you'll use fewer four letter words.

 

[IdahoDoug]

This kind of thing takes true "out of the box" thinking when it happens on the trail. A few years back one of our group so talented stopped his truck to the accompanyment of much cussing. By the time we got back to him in 5 feet of snow, he had a rear wheel off and was smashing what was left of the brake rotor. Then he fished around in the snow for the largest piece and used zip ties to hold it in the caliper - making sure that as the broken stubs of disc spun near it , they would not touch.

Turned out a chain had failed and gotten into his caliper and cracked the brake rotor. With a piece out of it he reasoned he would be immobile each time the brakes were used and tht piston dropped in the hole. So, he bashed out the remaining rotor. Then needed a chunk of rotor between the pistons so there'd be no excess pedal travel or brake fliuid loss if a piston ejected. Put the wheel back on and drove all day in 4 wheel drive with 3 wheel brakes. We hardly noticed as we were in snow over our heads with chains on all four. He suggested let your mind lose its focuse as you start to approach the problem. Then do what seems natural and minimizes time in making the vehicle mobile again.

DougM

 

[UWdave]

I'm planning for the same inevitable failure...

If the birfield "grenades":
- steering will bind
- if you simply pull the axle, nothing will keep the gear oil in the diff.
- - Can you drive without a front axle in?
- if you field replace the axle, can you jack the axle up enough to prevent gear oil from pouring out?


If the axle or drive flange splines strip:
- Remove the drive flange and go home

 

[Buckru]

I'm planning for the same inevitable failure...

If the birfield "grenades":
- steering will bind
- if you simply pull the axle, nothing will keep the gear oil in the diff.
- - Can you drive without a front axle in?
- if you field replace the axle, can you jack the axle up enough to prevent gear oil from pouring out?


If the axle or drive flange splines strip:
- Remove the drive flange and go home

If you pull the entire axle, stuff a rag in at the axle oil seal and not at the drive flange. This will prevent the knuckle from filling with gear oil. Before doing this, I'd pull the little oil seal spring first though.


Yes you can jack one side up enough to not have gear oil spill. It doesn't take much at all.

Yes you can drive without the front axle in.

If I stripped a drive flange, I'd either pull the front drive shaft or just keep going, with the center locked.


Buck

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

If a birf grenaded, seperate birf from axle, reinstall axle.



Buck

I am trying to visualize how the axle without a birfield and clip on the end does not just sorta bounce around in this scenario. What keeps it in place? how does it stay plugged in to the diff and what supports it at the knuckle end?
Do folks "martack" the diff end of 80's axles so that they can forget about the clip at the birfield when they reassemble these in the field? This assuming that you have a spare joint rather than two joints connected to the appropriate long and short axle shaft.

 

[Buckru]

I am trying to visualize how the axle without a birfield and clip on the end does not just sorta bounce around in this scenario. What keeps it in place? how does it stay plugged in to the diff and what supports it at the knuckle end?
Do folks "martack" the diff end of 80's axles so that they can forget about the clip at the birfield when they reassemble these in the field? This assuming that you have a spare joint rather than two joints connected to the appropriate long and short axle shaft.

Funny you mention that. I was thinking of things to do and not to do. It was one of the things not to do. Good catch and my bad.

I'll edit above post so no one thinks this is a good idea.

Buck

 

[IBCRUSN]

It would be easier to remove the axle and busted birf then stuff a rag in the hole to keep the gear lube where it belongs. Without the birf attached there is nothing of an substance to center the axle at the birf end.

Yes, I have Martacks and no clip inside the birf, I know I'm going to grenade more in the future. Until I have the part time conversion completed and Longs installed the Martack makes life easier.

The Martack won't keep a birfless axle from sliding out of the diff if the situation presents itself.

 

[Hilux]

Another key is a floating rotor... The Tacoma is 2.77" and rides outside the hub between the rim and WMS...

If you guys can find a rotor, or a way to do that (machine down the hub at 2 places) then you can do that...


goofball forgot the caliper part... 2 caliper bolts, then the rotor, and you're basically home free...

Oh, and say goodbye to expensive replacing the rotor and if it's cheaper to buy a rotor than turn them...

Just pull your caliper and slap a new one on there...

And this might be it...

Here's the FzJ80's: Store Locator | NAPA Online

And the Tundra's: Store Locator | NAPA Online

Looks like the same deal I'm having to work out with Taco rotors on my Mini...

doable...

 

[toojayzee]

I'm planning for the same inevitable failure...

If the birfield "grenades":
- steering will bind
- if you simply pull the axle, nothing will keep the gear oil in the diff.
- - Can you drive without a front axle in?
- if you field replace the axle, can you jack the axle up enough to prevent gear oil from pouring out?


If the axle or drive flange splines strip:
- Remove the drive flange and go home

I dont know how I missed this whole last page. Wierd

Anyway. Dave, hopefully if this happens to either of us we'll be on the trail together with a sh*tload of tools