Fiberglass Top Visor (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 11, 2013
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216
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MD
The top came off my FJ40 almost ten years ago and I'm slowly reassembling it. The FJ40 is a 5/78 but I know that the fiberglass top was replaced at some point so the visor may not be correct for a '78. There was a very large rubber grommet under the washer nozzle and it was all glued in place without a retaining nut. In the picture, the visor is only sitting on the windshield.
  1. Does the visor sit absolutely flush against the front of the windshield? (I have the weatherstrip that sits atop the windshield.) You can see in the picture where a PO had glued a large rubber washer under the nozzle and fit the visor over it leaving a slight gap between the windshield and visor.
  2. Is my visor correct for a 5/78? It looks like the cutout for the washer nozzle is not big enough. I believe I should cut it to match other pictures I've seen and push it flush against the windshield. Is that correct?
  3. Is the photo from CCOT correct for a '78? It shows no cutout for a washer nozzle.
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Cromagnon

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Jun 8, 2012
Messages
358
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Colorado Springs, CO
I would enlarge the hole for the washer to fit. The picture for the CCOT visor may be correct but all of the '78s that I have seen have the windshield washer on the top of the frame, like they show on the '79 and later.
 
Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
216
Location
MD
I'll Dremel its to match other '78s I've seen. Wish I'd noticed this when I disassembled it years ago. It just came back along with the gutter from being powder coated.
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2020
Messages
65
Location
Bay Area, California
@unixman , how'd it go with the visor install? I purchased my 72 in pieces so didn't have the luxury of removing the top to see how it all goes back together. I don't have any holes in the fiberglass cap to connect the visor, so I'll need to drill those. I'm planning on putting the fiberglass cap on the truck, positioning the visor, marking where the holes should go, then drill holes and attached with rivets. It all seems a little funky and seems like a lot could go wrong. :p
 
Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
216
Location
MD
I think what you're planning is what I'd suggest. My gutter was rusted almost beyond repair so I bought the kit from CCOT for $375 including shipping. Using the old one as the template, a local shop welded and powder coated the gutter and visor. One step I almost did incorrectly was drilling holes for the rivets. Had I simply centered the top on the gutter and drilled the holes, the rivets would have been closer to the body panels than on the original because the top had bowed ever so slightly from years of being stored on its side without the gutter providing support. First pic is test fitting the gutter prior to powder coating. The second pic shows the finished CCOT gutter attached to the top with some wire ties. I now need to fill the holes a PO drilled for a roof rack. Then sand, prime, and paint the fiberglass, rivet the gutter, top (and visor) together, apply the headliner, and bolt to the truck. So much to do and so little time...

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Joined
Nov 20, 2020
Messages
65
Location
Bay Area, California
I think what you're planning is what I'd suggest. My gutter was rusted almost beyond repair so I bought the kit from CCOT for $375 including shipping. Using the old one as the template, a local shop welded and powder coated the gutter and visor. One step I almost did incorrectly was drilling holes for the rivets. Had I simply centered the top on the gutter and drilled the holes, the rivets would have been closer to the body panels than on the original because the top had bowed ever so slightly from years of being stored on its side without the gutter providing support. First pic is test fitting the gutter prior to powder coating. The second pic shows the finished CCOT gutter attached to the top with some wire ties. I now need to fill the holes a PO drilled for a roof rack. Then sand, prime, and paint the fiberglass, rivet the gutter, top (and visor) together, apply the headliner, and bolt to the truck. So much to do and so little time...

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Ya, I’m realizing just how much work this top is, and mine is in good shape!!
I’m planning on using some marine “sikaflex” between the drip rail and the fiberglass top to help make it even more water tight, but it scares me using anything that is fairly permanent because I know I’ll mess something up!
 

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