FF rear chromoly shafts... Where to buy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter woytovich
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I too have a FF 60-series rear and am looking for backup pair of axles.
Junaid (TeamJB) has suppliers in the ME and I asked him last week if he could try and locate some ... but it's Holidays right now?
These would be good used stock axles. I see aftermarket ones in Aus, but know nothing about them ... I don't want the Chromoly ones, unless there's no other option.
Junaid (TeamJB) has suppliers in the ME and I asked him last week if he could try and locate some ... but it's Holidays right now?
These would be good used stock axles. I see aftermarket ones in Aus, but know nothing about them ... I don't want the Chromoly ones, unless there's no other option.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,278
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
If you want the best product available then contact any real axle manufacturer. RCV, CTM, Mark Williams, Cone, Dutchman, Strange, etc many out there. RCV already makes 80 rear full float setups so it would be easy for them to make them shorter for a 60
They stand behind their product as well.
They stand behind their product as well.
FJ60Seth
SILVER Star
I got spare stock FF rear shafts from CruiserParts. It took them about 3 weeks to ship & I emailed a few times, but it wasn’t a bad experience.
Everything I've gotten from CruiserParts is rusty as hell.
Im no expert in this but ronny dahl broke his at the spline and it destroyed his diff. Seems to be that id rather have a weaker non chromo axle that breaks further away from the diff and doesnt damage it.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
@MountNGoat broke his Nitro at the flange and it destroyed his locker
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,278
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
I don't like to stir the pot on this kinda thing but there were some recent threads in the 80 section about several issues with Nitro rear shafts.. enough to prevent me from buying them. Going to see if I can break a stock 80 shaft first with my LS, 105:1 gear and locker before I upgrade, I still haven't. @woytovich has even more wind-up torque multiplying gearing then me though.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
It's a pot worth stirring and I totally agree. I'm 230:1 on stock 80 shafts. Hopefully @MountNGoat chimes in but when his broke, he wasn't doing anything that special.
I was thinking though, if you got an 80 short side from nitro with the longer locker specific splines, you could cut it down for a 60 length and probably have enough spline left.
stevebradford
In the shop
I have nitro’s for my full float but on a mostly stock truck with no issues. Here’s is the measurements that allow you to remove the diff with broken twisted axle spline stuck in there.
Last edited:
My 4x4 club has a bunch of FZJ80's with stock rear FF shafts. I have yet to see someone break one. They usually have stock drivetrain with an upgraded 3:1 tcase gear for crawling on 37's. Their main breaking point is loose front steering arms that shear studs on the bottom of the knuckle.
I also run a FZJ80 FF rear axle with stock shafts and stock drivetrain (35's on 4.88's w/ ARB's). I carry a spare set of shafts. My main reason forgoing with the 80 rear axle was common parts with people in my club. I was trying to find a 60 FF rear but they were way pricer and parts were harder to find.
So in summary, run stock shafts and carry spares?
I also run a FZJ80 FF rear axle with stock shafts and stock drivetrain (35's on 4.88's w/ ARB's). I carry a spare set of shafts. My main reason forgoing with the 80 rear axle was common parts with people in my club. I was trying to find a 60 FF rear but they were way pricer and parts were harder to find.
So in summary, run stock shafts and carry spares?
- Thread starter
- #33
Please clarify... are you saying having the splined area in 2 sections rather than 1 continuous section helps? Please explain.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,278
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
stevebradford
In the shop
Your right Its for the factory locking diffs cable or e locking they need to be in the locked position to remove from the housing. Unfortunately full float axle housing doesn’t have a removable diff cover. if you twist and break an axle and are unable to knock the stub out you have to cut open your housing.
Can’t remember who but someone on mud came up with that machining to save people some pain
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,278
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Try doing that down a 30” axle tube.
My friend @Oscar Witte who breaks 80 rear FF shafts regularly uses super glue and the other part of the broken axle.
Usually if they break clean at the diff you can just pull the third member out.
A strong long extendable magnet might also be useful. Good thing to have in the trail box regardless.
Gel fast drying gorilla glue to be exact. Just try to wipe off the end of the shaft to get as much oil off as possible. Then use the mini tire bar looking thing/broken shaft extraction tool in your factory spare tool kit. 
