Ferris Buehler and Days Off

Cruiserdrew

On the way there
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Ok-So I took the day off today. Some of you might know that I have a brand new H55f transmission that Cruiserdan delivered to me in Moab. I've been anxious to get on the project, and since I've worked 11 days in a row, I took off today to start on the install.

Today was the day to really get on the transfercase. I have a 1987 donor T-case that will be installed with the H55. First the t-case had to be completely dissassembled for rebuild and I have a pic of the garage carnage after the dissasssembley was complete. The front output can be disassembled with a brass drift, a press is not required. After removing the check ball and the shift fork, it is possible to drive out the output shaft, then remove the snap ring and drive out the output support bearing. Easy stuff.

The really hard part is the rear output shaft. After the check ball is out, the gear cluster and shift fork comes out in your hand. Thats when the fun starts. The bearings are pressed on both ends of the output shaft. The first time through I tried a 2 jaw puller and it broke. Then I went to Harbor Freight to buy a shop press and they were out! So I went to my differential guy's shop and he helped me out big time and pressed off the old output shaft bearings and pressed on the new ones. Those bearings are seriously on there-we were pressing with the whole 50 ton out-put of his press. For me at least, the press was absolutely required. I was actually very suprised at the force it took.

Then back to the front part of the case-I had been dreading re-threading the middle bolt hole you have to plug with the H55f. It looked easy to fawk it up. In reality, though, it was a cinch. I used a 1/4 inch pipe thread tap and just used the existing hole. The threads turned out really clean and I installed a 1/4 NPT plug with blue Locktite. See the pic. Then I installed the oil seals and am ready to mount on the back of the H55.

You can see in some of the pics the oil seal that allows oil to migrate from the transfer to the transmission. Pictured is the new seal in place. You can also see the oiler cup that snaps in place in the collector on the front face of the T-case. There is much more to come, but I thought the pictures might be helpful if anyone else is rebuilding a split transfer case on an FJ60.
Carnage1.jpg
Carnage2.jpg
Carnage3.jpg
 
Joined
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Andy,

Glad you were able to get those bearing's off the shaft, as they can be a *(&^%. I know you were going to change all the bearings, did you decide to change all bronze bushings, thrust washers, shims, etc?

Lookin good, amigo

Joe
 

Cruiserdrew

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I'm changing everything except the bronze bushings on the rear output. The donor case was suprisingly pristine. The old bearings and races still looked good, and the output gears are tight on the shaft. I will reshim if needed, but Mudrak says they always come out well reusing the ould pre-load shim, so that's what I'm doing. Funny-It was even hard to pull that little pilot bearing on the front of the output shaft. These transfercases are put together with serious pride by Toyota.
 

Onur

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Nine year bump.

Love these old threads and the amount of information available to anyone by searching.

Thanks for the important information Andy. Doing this same exact job this week.

:cheers:
 
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Funny-It was even hard to pull that little pilot bearing on the front of the output shaft.
Doing this same exact job this week.
Yep, those needle bearings are a b*tch. Hammer slide and needle bearing puller wasn't working, so somehow I was able to break the top of the casing in on itself by applying some lateral force on the lip of the casing with a punch/screwdriver and hammer...but that casing is hardened too...and you have to be careful not to knock the casing even further into the seat of the output shaft if you try this method...I still have a spare output shaft from which I was not able to free the needle bearing casing.
 

fl4031003

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I also just disassembled my spare split case and cleaned everything in preperation for the h55f swap from the h42 in my sons FJ62
 

Onur

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I also just disassembled my spare split case and cleaned everything in preperation for the h55f swap from the h42 in my sons FJ62

Ah yes my old H42F Jeff... Good times in Corrales, NM.

:cheers:
 
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Yep, those needle bearings are a b*tch. Hammer slide and needle bearing puller wasn't working, so somehow I was able to break the top of the casing in on itself by applying some lateral force on the lip of the casing with a punch/screwdriver and hammer...but that casing is hardened too...and you have to be careful not to knock the casing even further into the seat of the output shaft if you try this method...I still have a spare output shaft from which I was not able to free the needle bearing casing.
Didn't work for me. The cage came right out with a chisel, but the race was in there to stay. I had to buy a pilot bearing puller from NAPA just for that.
 

GLTHFJ60

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I was about to say that I can't remember the last time Drew started his own thread, but I guess this one was 9 years ago!
 
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Didn't work for me. The cage came right out with a chisel, but the race was in there to stay. I had to buy a pilot bearing puller from NAPA just for that.
Huh. I had the exact opposite experience...I started by trying to pull the pilot bearing the 'correct' way (with a pilot bearing puller attached to a hammer slide), but after what seemed to be a lifetime of failed attempts, the whole drama quickly degraded to the caveman approach with a hammer and a sharp instrument.

But as I mentioned, I'm not sure the caveman approach is the best since I was only ever able to get 1 out of 2 pilot bearings from the 2 output shafts that I had to come out...those bearing casings are tough (as noted the needles fall out rather easily, but the casings are the stubborn ones).

Here is the pilot bearing puller I used. Maybe there is a better puller out there?

upload_2014-12-3_12-29-28.jpeg
 
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I first bought that one, but didn't realize it required a slide hammer, which I didn't have at the time. I ended up getting this one, which worked perfectly on two output shafts.

 
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