2fpower
SILVER Star
Not sure if you can read his shirt...
Builds Father, Son, and the Unholy UTE (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 7powernerd
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That thing is pimp as hell
2fpower
SILVER Star
Just got back from an amazing trip to Colorado
Grizzly lake
mt antero
Tin cup pass
Taylor pass
American flag mountain
Grizzly lake
mt antero
Tin cup pass
Taylor pass
American flag mountain
2fpower
SILVER Star
Only problem was on Taylor Pass found a big rock that reduce the volume of the fuel tank by quite a bit..... The factory armor did it’s job and were able to drive 10 hours home. Caveat is without a fuel gauge as it was in operable with the newly redesigned fuel tank
Ouch.
But man those photos of Colorado!
But man those photos of Colorado!
2fpower
SILVER Star
Another trip out to Colorado, this time in and around ouray. Black bear, Ophir, engineer, mineral creek, etc.
2fpower
SILVER Star
More pics.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Josh is wanting to add a rooftop tent to the back but not have the elevated surface up to high…. So that means to be able to put a cover on the bed we need some sort of retractable or roll top. Any suggestions? something like this high from Bed surface.
Last edited:
Heather doesn't want to climb up on one of these either, but you get access from the bottom and side access vs a camper topper. But . . . $$$$.
gofastcampers.com
You could find any good used tent and put it on one of these or something less expensive:
www.frontrunneroutfitters.com
GFC Platform Camper - Product Details
gofastcampers.com
You could find any good used tent and put it on one of these or something less expensive:
Toyota Tundra Access Cab 2-Door Pickup Truck (1999-2006) Slimline II Load Bed Rack Kit - by Front Runner
This kit creates a full size rack that sits above your Toyota Tundra Access Cab 2-Door (1999-2006)'s truck bed. This Slimline II cargo carrying rack kit contains the Slimline II tray (1475mm/58.1" (W) x 1358mm/53.5" (L)), 2 Tracks, and 4 Pickup Truck Bed Universal Legs that fit into the Tracks...
www.frontrunneroutfitters.com
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Pops added a power roll-up tonneau to his Denali CC/SB - integrates into his truck remote, also worked via a add-in to the keyed tailgate you twist/hold either direction to extent/retract.
He’s coming back from the Utah salt flats as I type (speed week) - but I know it was a good ~$1250 or more. Sectional AL planks that rolled up take ~8” OAL / spooled at the cab end.
Want me to get brand / details?
Just spent a week in Ouray with the Solid axle Summit Group/event. The area is incredibly beautiful.
It was our first tripe to the area, my wife and I were thrilled with the incredible beauty of the wildflowers and how green it was from the recent summer thunderstorms.
It also made for a dust free trail riding experience, just super nice, perfect trip for us. Full 5 days on the trails.
It would have been great to cross paths and get to meet you and your family.
It looks like you enjoyed it a much as we did.
Cheers Broski
2fpower
SILVER Star
probably more than I intented to spend... recall we paid about that much for the 80 series to start with.... But thanks,
- Thread starter
- #573
Long time no see. Spent winter break back home working on some small quality of life changes, including Yoda's ability to change her oil by herself. We found a leak of oil both on the lower oil pan and the distributer, and so those were swapped out. Along with that, a nice leak of tranny fluid near the odo sensor. (I may be swapping these words around but you get the idea. Fluid leak out where fluid should not leak out).
Upon taking out the lower oil pan we found some nice non-magnetic shards of metal in varying sizes, and although tempting we decided that turning a blind eye should work fine. This rig has run great for at least 40k miles in my ownership so we believe the shards came from well before then. Anywho, here's the soup:
I also went about fixing my cluster. I haven't been able to visibly see oil pressure for a little over a year and a half, along with the resettable odo not working at all. Tacometer would randomly decide it didn't like working and the gas gauge stops at halfway so it was time. @2fpower had some spare casings (to the surprise of no one) and to this day it looks like nothing is there...it's unreal. Swapping it out was easy enough, took a few tries because I severed a ground connection in the membrane but it is amazingly nice, and we can confirm Yoda has visible oil pressure once more.
Also on this swap, we ended up taking out the odo portion you can reset and swapping it with my old overall mileage gauge, so that number is still nice and proper. It's nice to not have to go on gut feeling for when to refill because neither your gas gauge or odo shows you. Apparently this is a pretty common break, the plastic gets stress due to the torque of how the reset pin works, causing it to fracture and the gears don't link back properly.
Final quality of life change was adding a screw to replace a broken pin on the air duct venting. Better than stuffing change in there for friction at least.
Upon taking out the lower oil pan we found some nice non-magnetic shards of metal in varying sizes, and although tempting we decided that turning a blind eye should work fine. This rig has run great for at least 40k miles in my ownership so we believe the shards came from well before then. Anywho, here's the soup:
I also went about fixing my cluster. I haven't been able to visibly see oil pressure for a little over a year and a half, along with the resettable odo not working at all. Tacometer would randomly decide it didn't like working and the gas gauge stops at halfway so it was time. @2fpower had some spare casings (to the surprise of no one) and to this day it looks like nothing is there...it's unreal. Swapping it out was easy enough, took a few tries because I severed a ground connection in the membrane but it is amazingly nice, and we can confirm Yoda has visible oil pressure once more.
Also on this swap, we ended up taking out the odo portion you can reset and swapping it with my old overall mileage gauge, so that number is still nice and proper. It's nice to not have to go on gut feeling for when to refill because neither your gas gauge or odo shows you. Apparently this is a pretty common break, the plastic gets stress due to the torque of how the reset pin works, causing it to fracture and the gears don't link back properly.
Final quality of life change was adding a screw to replace a broken pin on the air duct venting. Better than stuffing change in there for friction at least.
- Thread starter
- #574
For future work, we're eyeballing re-doing the entire rear section. It's having some rust trouble, so sandblasting and repainting seems like the best option before it gets worse. However, while we're there it doesn't hurt to make some modifications.
Due to the nature of this vehicle, there is a lot of empty space under the bed between it and the frame. Due to this, we already had plans to expand the gas tank capacity by about 150% percent. However, we're eyeballing a bed trunk system, we're working out the ideas but for a prototype we're thinking cutting a hold and adding in a lip. The lip will function as a channel with holes for water leaks, and a tub can slide in from the top, catching the lip. Adding in locks and hinges and then we have a closable trunk. Think along these lines but nowhere near as fancy.
Also, we plan to add some piping to the front of the bed against the cab. This will not only bring out the silhouette a tad, but will also allow the addition of some new lights. Along with brake lights, I'd like to place some flood lights to turn on at night, so when camping the lights can come on and flood the contents of the bed, making it much easier to unpack. Also, with our expertise in spraying paint (and dad's new paint gun), we should be able to finally spray in the "TOYODA" text on the tailgate.
Here are some sketches of what these additions may look like, along with some designs of a custom "YT-1300" badge would look like to install on the tailgate. The final one (circled) uses some classic Toyota influence. Don't know if I'll continue with it but it was a great exercise.
Due to the nature of this vehicle, there is a lot of empty space under the bed between it and the frame. Due to this, we already had plans to expand the gas tank capacity by about 150% percent. However, we're eyeballing a bed trunk system, we're working out the ideas but for a prototype we're thinking cutting a hold and adding in a lip. The lip will function as a channel with holes for water leaks, and a tub can slide in from the top, catching the lip. Adding in locks and hinges and then we have a closable trunk. Think along these lines but nowhere near as fancy.
Also, we plan to add some piping to the front of the bed against the cab. This will not only bring out the silhouette a tad, but will also allow the addition of some new lights. Along with brake lights, I'd like to place some flood lights to turn on at night, so when camping the lights can come on and flood the contents of the bed, making it much easier to unpack. Also, with our expertise in spraying paint (and dad's new paint gun), we should be able to finally spray in the "TOYODA" text on the tailgate.
Here are some sketches of what these additions may look like, along with some designs of a custom "YT-1300" badge would look like to install on the tailgate. The final one (circled) uses some classic Toyota influence. Don't know if I'll continue with it but it was a great exercise.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Well.... as much as I don't want to talk about it... we had some rust issues on the bed. Truck has been living in Iowa for 3 winters and the salt has taken its toll.
I hate rust and I hate doing something twice, so I took zero pictures, so just typing this here to warn others....
Prep, Prep, Prep is what they always told me in the paint shop....
I think the main issue is that we did not sandblast the metal after all the original work, so mill scale was likely on the new metal and the rest just was not clean enough??? regardless the paint we used under the bed was just gone and rust was coming through the back and to the outside of the bed.
The other issue seems to be related to the stainless pieces I added for reinforcement, where those touched the metal was the worst rust we had. Must be some reaction between the metals??? don't know, but got rid of all of that.
In total over 20 patches of metal, so a long weekend of sandblasting, metal work, welding and painting with that crazy silver master series primer.
nomorerust.com
Need to figure out if we can bondo over it, or how to deal with that -- however, that is another year. For now, my son did a nice rattle can paint job. From 30 feet away and bad prescription glasses, it looks great.
I hate rust and I hate doing something twice, so I took zero pictures, so just typing this here to warn others....
Prep, Prep, Prep is what they always told me in the paint shop....
I think the main issue is that we did not sandblast the metal after all the original work, so mill scale was likely on the new metal and the rest just was not clean enough??? regardless the paint we used under the bed was just gone and rust was coming through the back and to the outside of the bed.
The other issue seems to be related to the stainless pieces I added for reinforcement, where those touched the metal was the worst rust we had. Must be some reaction between the metals??? don't know, but got rid of all of that.
In total over 20 patches of metal, so a long weekend of sandblasting, metal work, welding and painting with that crazy silver master series primer.
Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™
Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.
Need to figure out if we can bondo over it, or how to deal with that -- however, that is another year. For now, my son did a nice rattle can paint job. From 30 feet away and bad prescription glasses, it looks great.
If you're welding SS to carbon steel, you need to use 309SS wire or you get funky chemical compositions and that would show like you have.Well.... as much as I don't want to talk about it... we had some rust issues on the bed. Truck has been living in Iowa for 3 winters and the salt has taken its toll.
I hate rust and I hate doing something twice, so I took zero pictures, so just typing this here to warn others....
Prep, Prep, Prep is what they always told me in the paint shop....
I think the main issue is that we did not sandblast the metal after all the original work, so mill scale was likely on the new metal and the rest just was not clean enough??? regardless the paint we used under the bed was just gone and rust was coming through the back and to the outside of the bed.
The other issue seems to be related to the stainless pieces I added for reinforcement, where those touched the metal was the worst rust we had. Must be some reaction between the metals??? don't know, but got rid of all of that.
In total over 20 patches of metal, so a long weekend of sandblasting, metal work, welding and painting with that crazy silver master series primer.
Mastercoat® Ultimate Permanent Rust Sealer SILVER Primer, Original & Sprayable Slim - Mastercoat® & The Master Series Coating Line - No More Rust™
Mastercoat Permanent Rust Sealer is a professional paint over rust application that will stop rust permanently at low prices.
Need to figure out if we can bondo over it, or how to deal with that -- however, that is another year. For now, my son did a nice rattle can paint job. From 30 feet away and bad prescription glasses, it looks great.
Iowa has some horrible chemicals they slobber all over the roads.
I wish I would have known about Fluid Film 45 years ago. Maybe I should have driven over a couple sheep from the farm.....
Galvanic corrosion can happen as soon as different metals are connected in terms of conductivity. You can run sacrificial anodes or work to isolate the different metals but add moisture and salt (ie. electrolyte) and at least one metal is going to get eaten. If you play around with older saltwater boats and the misc hardware on them you can learn a lot about this including seeing alloys with certain metals all leeched out, etc. Once you are familiar with this it's pretty easy to manage or avoid but many folks aren't aware so make easy to mistakes like "upgrading" to stainless hardware that's connected to mild steel where it may cause corrosion issues, etc.
Here's more information on galvanic corrosion including a nice chart of metals by nobility that will help you identify which metal will win and which will lose should they become connected and do the battery/corrosion thing:
An Introduction to the Galvanic Series: Galvanic Compatibili
When metals are incorrectly combined and exposed to water and other types of electrolytes,
www.corrosionpedia.com
