Fan, Rad, Battery out ... anything else I should do?

[ghbyram]

First of all -- thanks to all of you regulars and others out there ... I hope you appreciate what a valuable resource your contributions have helped build. This place has made a lot of tasks very approachable for me as a newby since I picked this LC up 1.5 weeks ago.

I have the belts, fan, radiator, and battery/battery box out due to oil pump seal and front CS seal change. I just want to ask the mudders if there is any other recommended PM/ baselining I should do before I put all of that stuff back in.

Coolant and hoses generally all looked pretty good. Did not see any sludge from the rad or block drain (at least from what was caught in the bucket.

I suppose I should check the PHH while I have the coolant out.

I will be flushing the coolant system with distilled water once back together and then will do a good undercarriage cleaning before moving on to the front axle rebuild.

This is on a 2004 locked w/ 178k on it. It will be my DD.

Thanks,
Grady

 

[94SRUNNER]

Your Land Cruiser is a 2004 or did you mean 1994? You may want to post this up in the 100 Series forum if that is the case.

If it is an 80 Series, then yes certainly check out the PHH and change it if you have the coolant drained, much better than on the trail. Also, another relatively quick fix is the distributor o-ring, it tends to seep on higher mileage rigs. There is a great thread here on Mud.

But at any rate. Glad to hear you were able to make use of the wealth of information here on Mud!

 

[Tools R Us]

Check the power steering return lines, they are often hard. They are MUCH easier to change now than on the trail!

 

[ghbyram]

Your Land Cruiser is a 2004 or did you mean 1994? You may want to post this up in the 100 Series forum if that is the case.

If it is an 80 Series, then yes certainly check out the PHH and change it if you have the coolant drained, much better than on the trail. Also, another relatively quick fix is the distributor o-ring, it tends to seep on higher mileage rigs. There is a great thread here on Mud.

yes ... a 94. Typo on my part.

I am wondering if it had the dist O-ring done by a prior owner as I see oil residue that suggest there may have been a past oil leak up higher and not related to the oil pump cover leak that I just (hopefully) fixed.

I will read the right up and strongly consider that also ... so then I won't have to wonder ... which is the point of baselining. right?

 

[Dave 2000]

Only seen this on one petrol 80 but on numerous diesels (inc my own), remove the alternator and check the alternator bolt holes and the holes on the bracket on the side of the engine, sometimes they are elongated.

regards

Dave

 

[Sc0-]

Could also reseal the power steering pump and check the condition of the hoses and maybe replace the paperclip power steering cooler with something more substantial... I use a small tube and fine, others use a plate type and a few use a heatsink type.

Do the Sequoia alternator upgrade...

Upgrade the grounding wires.

Do replace the distributor O-ring, easier to do with the battery bracket removed. just be sure you mark the housing, and rotor for proper alignment as it helps when reinstalling.

 

[80ways]

Thermostat is easy to get to right now...

 

[Tools R Us]

The fan clutch is off, so good time to change the goo, it is the best cooling capacity improvement and is cheap/easy.

 

[94SRUNNER]

As Tools said, the fan clutch is a worthy project with positive results!

 

[robertaleon]

I agree with everyone here (what a surprise!).

• P/S hoses
• Coolant hoses
• Fan clutch fluid swap
• Thermostat
• Rad cap
• dizzy ring
• CS seal and oil pump like you mentioned
• Replace with OEM belts if you're not doing that already, especially if existing ones have been used more than 5 minutes per FSM
• PHH for sure
• Firewall hoses and possible metal tube bypass is a good project for PM
• If you're back at the firewall replacing hoses, either rewrap your engine harness with heat blocking tape or '86' the EGR system.

My $0.02

 

[BrotherRob]

Ask yourself three questions about any part that is clearly visible:
How likely is it to break in the near future?
Can I afford it?
How much of a will it be to replace it when the rig is back together?

 

[ghbyram]

Thanks fellas for the recommendations.

Did the dizzy o-ring last night - cheap, quick and easy. The little retainer tab broke off when I went to unplug the harness on top - so I'm wondering if that is a big deal - will search. That female end of that connection on the dizzy was also pretty loose and if you wiggled it would come somewhat unseated pretty easy. The inside of the housing was pretty clean but the part inside the motor was pretty dirty and sorta looked "cooked". I cleaned it up a bit and it looks OK and functional but wondering if I should go ahead and just change out the dizzy.

PHH kit on the way. I crawled under last night to see if I could get a look at where exactly this sucker is to see what all the complaining was about. I didn't take the driver side tire off and was too tired at that point so never actually got my eyeballs on it. I did see some fresh seepage at the converter junction and looks like I'll be doing my oil pans as I don't want any leaks. Not looking forward to lifting the engine.

I will try to find a source for the fan clutch fluid today. Its ridiculously hot here in Houston and most of my driving is around the city so running cooler would be, well, ... cool. I need to search to figure out what I really want but based on my readings on this a while back the 10000 wt seemed to make sense. Need to assess RC Store options versus if Mr. T has something like this. Also need to understand better exactly how much fluid I need to purchase. Don't worry - I'll search.

Belts and hoses look pretty good. I hate to swap out the belts at this point. Will try re-using them but if any noise - they'll be replaced quickly.

All the hoses toward the front actually look pretty good - going to wait on those. Need to look at the ones on the back and will check the state of harness insulation and research the EGR tradeoffs.

Considering T-stat but undecided.

Need to change throttle cable - that sucker looks rough.

Thanks again.

 

[wesayso]

I agree with everyone here (what a surprise!).

• P/S hoses
• Coolant hoses
• Fan clutch fluid swap
• Thermostat
• Rad cap
• dizzy ring
• CS seal and oil pump like you mentioned
• Replace with OEM belts if you're not doing that already, especially if existing ones have been used more than 5 minutes per FSM
• PHH for sure
• Firewall hoses and possible metal tube bypass is a good project for PM
• If you're back at the firewall replacing hoses, either rewrap your engine harness with heat blocking tape or '86' the EGR system.

My $0.02

5 minutes?

 

[Dave 2000]

There is a lot going on with this thread so sorry if it has been mentioned, the metal pipes that run under the car to the rear heater can corrode through.

regards

Dave