Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Earlier this week it was mid 90s and running in at temp range.If that translates to 205-215 in Texas, then our setups aren't so different.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Earlier this week it was mid 90s and running in at temp range.If that translates to 205-215 in Texas, then our setups aren't so different.
I pretty much have the exact same issues. I'm running a mechanical and two electric fans with the largest radiator I could fit. Everything is great until i make it work. Just make sure you have a good shroud.For me, when I'm running AC in hot temps during normal driving I run 190-195F. If I start working it like towing a small trailer in the dessert up long grades I have to turn the AC off because I'll see 230F if I let it.
I've been picking @J Mack brain and reviewing his set up and have decided to convert to a mechanical fan. Even with my bigger radiator and the switch to the bigger fans it runs hotter than I'd like while I'm working it. The electrics are awesome for normal daily driving and have a couple of other advantages. It's only when I start working things hard do I run passed their capacity. I want to be able to charge up a hill letting high boost do its thing running the AC with or without a trailer in tow and not have to pull out of it.
Mechanicals can just flat out pull more air. Running a single turbo, smaller tires, and less fueling I really didn't have many issues with electricals but since I've converted to compounds the balance changed.
Since the ring was cracked anyways I figured I could try and mount it outside somewhere on the spinning drivetrain. That's exactly what I did in a crude backyard fabricator kind of way. I cut out a plate and drilled holes as centered as I could to mount it to my tcase flange. It's not spot on but it turned out pretty good.
I made some funky mounting bracket for the speed sensor that I grabbed from the other tranny. The sensor is held on by a hose clamp because I wanted to be able to adjust the gap and I wasn't sure what the run-out on the ring was going to be. I have a .040 gap on it with the ring run-out about .030 and it picks up the speed just fine. Speed has been verified by GPS so it's good. To test the run-out I put the rear on stands to get the wheels off the ground and put it in gear idling so it would spin. I also found at this time that the rear tires are out of round, not the rims, but the tires.
This was from my build thread-@Kief
I am currently running my electric fan sensor on the front port on the engine side of the thermostat. I am running my factory and aftermarket gauge sensors off of the rear driver side port off of cylinder 4 as that's been said to be the hottest reading from these engines. The mechanical gauge is where I'm getting numbers from as opposed to the factory H L read out.
I pretty much have the exact same issues. I'm running a mechanical and two electric fans with the largest radiator I could fit. Everything is great until i make it work. Just make sure you have a good shroud.
We’ll soon get that dry powder wheeling at the Crater Lake property buddyNot quite the awesome powder we were hoping for but it did start to get deep.