Build Family Hauler: 1997 Night Shadow Pearl FZJ80

[chatt100]

So after more research seems like my best bet is to pull the rack and just get an aftermarket one.

I would like to take the rack off myself and then let a body shop deal with the welding. I'm not sure what to do about the light bar that is currently on there. Since I won't have anything to attach it to when the rack is off.

It is a Rough Country Light Bar and here is a picture of the wiring coming out of the roof

I wouldn't mind not having a rack for a while but would like to add one at some point, as well as a light bar, so it would be nice to preserve the wiring for easy re-install.

 

[Jroc561]

Beautiful Truck mate, looks like the PO left you in pretty good place.

 

[ajax1]

Love that color is it a 97? I think somebody way back listed all the colors and locker combos with how many were imported, seems like there was less then 20 with your color and locked for 97.

 

[chatt100]

Love that color is it a 97? I think somebody way back listed all the colors and locker combos with how many were imported, seems like there was less then 20 with your color and locked for 97.

It is a 97. That’s interesting, I’ll have to try and dig up that thread. If that’s true I feel like I got even more of a steal of a deal on it. I’ve been casually looking for about a year and never saw one that was this color available.

 

[melmwood]

Beautiful truck. A bit envious.

As far as the roof rack goes, my 97 (from CA) had zero rust on any of the screw holes under the feet. With that said, it's pretty easy to pull it and have a look (just leave the bars down the middle on for now, they are another thing)...if no rust and just a couple bad bolt holes you could simply install new nutserts in those bad spots (may require a bump up in bolt size, but easy to figure out...I'm currently doing this as part of a rear spoiler reinstall). Amazon sells a bunch of "nutsert rivet kits", and this guy has a good video explaining the nutsert rivet process ().

Only caution on the full delete of the main rack bars is that you are then (I believe) forced to run a rain gutter rack only...and those systems (including mounts) typically cost $1,000+ (plus shipping), unless you can find a used one. Beefy racks, but cost a few bucks...and this cost on top of the body shop work to close all the holes (including the bars in the middle, as only doing the feet holes would seem like only half the job if you've got rust).

I recently painted my rook rack black (just a can of Rustoleum black + clear coat) and it looks like new (no more light grayish rubber feet). I also put DAP auto/marine silicone sealant on the bolts and around the feet on reinstall to keep water at bay...used that same sealant when I replaced the power antenna with a shorty whip from Napa and will use it on the rear spoiler during reinstall. If the holes are rust-free and can be fixed, a paint job on the rack may help quell those desires for a full new rack system. And then you'll have all that extra cash to pay @gearinstalls.com to rebuild the rear diff down the road.

 

[ajax1]

It is a 97. That’s interesting, I’ll have to try and dig up that thread. If that’s true I feel like I got even more of a steal of a deal on it. I’ve been casually looking for about a year and never saw one that was this color available.

Here is what I found , is yours collector edition?

 

[bigCatdiesel]

Good looking truck! Obviously biased but definitely my favorite color. I like the fenders blacked out. Is that line-x?

That rack looks like a good solution and not too expensive. Now just need to find a shop to pull the rack/weld/paint

Yes, it’s rhino liner on the lower half and fender flares.

 

[69LC]

I’m not sure about the cost, but my buddy @dogfishlake here in MI builds and sells the Bowfin racks. They’re well thought out.

 

[chatt100]

Beautiful truck. A bit envious.

As far as the roof rack goes, my 97 (from CA) had zero rust on any of the screw holes under the feet. With that said, it's pretty easy to pull it and have a look (just leave the bars down the middle on for now, they are another thing)...if no rust and just a couple bad bolt holes you could simply install new nutserts in those bad spots (may require a bump up in bolt size, but easy to figure out...I'm currently doing this as part of a rear spoiler reinstall). Amazon sells a bunch of "nutsert rivet kits", and this guy has a good video explaining the nutsert rivet process ().

Only caution on the full delete of the main rack bars is that you are then (I believe) forced to run a rain gutter rack only...and those systems (including mounts) typically cost $1,000+ (plus shipping), unless you can find a used one. Beefy racks, but cost a few bucks...and this cost on top of the body shop work to close all the holes (including the bars in the middle, as only doing the feet holes would seem like only half the job if you've got rust).

I recently painted my rook rack black (just a can of Rustoleum black + clear coat) and it looks like new (no more light grayish rubber feet). I also put DAP auto/marine silicone sealant on the bolts and around the feet on reinstall to keep water at bay...used that same sealant when I replaced the power antenna with a shorty whip from Napa and will use it on the rear spoiler during reinstall. If the holes are rust-free and can be fixed, a paint job on the rack may help quell those desires for a full new rack system. And then you'll have all that extra cash to pay @gearinstalls.com to rebuild the rear diff down the road.

Cool I'll check that out. The truck is originally from Texas and there is no rust anywhere else so I am hopeful. I am going to try and pull the rack this weekend to assess the damage under there. If there is not any rust and I can fix it with bolts/nutserts will probably go that route as a temporary solution.

I'm sure it'll be expensive to weld up the holes/re-paint but seems like the best permanent solution. Since the restore has been done to such a high standard up to this point I feel like I need to continue that so at some point will be getting this done. Most of the body shops around here don't really seem interested though as they all just want to do insurance work.

I honestly don't really need a rack for the time being and will probably decide what to do on that front once I figure out what to do about this light bar wiring.

 

[chatt100]

I’m not sure about the cost, but my buddy @dogfishlake here in MI builds and sells the Bowfin racks. They’re well thought out.

Great looking product. Already contacted him and will probably go that route if I decide to do a full rack

 

[69LC]

He’s a really cool dude and does nice work. I just dropped off a set of extra wheels I bought for my wife’s 17 Camry he blasted and recoated for winter tires. He does great work with powder and the racks.

Maybe someday he will put my “Quik Hinges” on one of his nicer 40s....

 

[chatt100]

Here is what I found , is yours collector edition?

View attachment 2091888

Mine is not a collectors edition. Couldn't find any other threads on specific color production numbers but I would guess my combination would be pretty rare.

Based on other threads in 1997 11,502 were imported to USA, most threads state ~7-10% of those were 3x locked, and there were 10 different color options.

So by that estimate even if all colors where equally prevalent that would mean around 100. Seems like the Night Shadow is one of the more rare colors so I would guess 30-50 is an reasonable estimate

 

[chatt100]

So here is what was hiding under the roof rack

The homemade rack that was attached to the factory rack was steel and must have weighed 80lbs. There is no way that thing should have been on there and probably is fortunate the whole thing didn't go flying off at some point on the interstate.

I'm sure there is a cheaper way to fix this but I honestly don't want to mess with it and want it done right. Off to the body shop on Monday to get it welded up.

 

[chatt100]

So went by to look at the truck today. They did a great job and the roof looks incredible. Doesn't even look like there was ever a factory rack to start with. Of course I forgot to take a picture.

The shop is taking far longer than I anticipated because they fortuitously found a leak in the sunroof that is being fixed. They have been trying to use silicone to seal it but I guess its proving more difficult than anticipated despite consulting some of the fixes referenced here on mud.

Does anyone know if you can still buy the gaskets for the sunroof to just replace? I searched without luck

 

[chatt100]

Never mind on the gasket question looks like you have to buy the whole glass assembly. Was able to find with better search terms.

I'm going to go back over on Monday to take a closer look at what they have tried. The leak is just on the passenger side. Seems like short of replacing the whole assembly the bicycle tube fix might be the best option

Bicycle Tube Sunroof Fix/wind noise gone!

Well I have been chasing some wind noise at the top of the A-pillar on both sides of my cruiser for a long time. I have checked door alignment, mirror sealing, weatherstripping etc. to get rid of the wind noise and never got it as quiet as I new it should be. I always noticed when I had the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Looks like this issue this has been beaten to death and approached in a variety of ways. Is there a general consensus on best fix? Any other suggestions?

 

[chatt100]

I've read about body shops being the black hole of restorations and that's no joke! Still haven't got the cruiser back. I guess insurance jobs just pay so well other jobs take a back seat.

Also, part of the delay is they weren't able to completely fix the sunroof so ended up ordering new OEM glass assembly. Dropped it off and hope it will be fixed and back in my driveway in a week or so.

The roof does look great though. Can't even tell there was a factory rack in the first place after they welded and re-painted the roof.

 

[jpoole]

@chatt100 I've seen your truck at the paint shop recently and always like seeing it around town. My truck will be painted in the next year or two but, as you may have noticed, most shops around here aren't that eager to do non-insurance work, so I may end up painting it myself if I can find time. In any case if you wrap up your experience there with any thoughts on their services feel free to pm them my way or drop them here if you want to share publicly.

Also, I keep a few spares and tools around so if you happen to need anything local reach out and I may be able to help.

 

[80superg]

Truck looks great. I'm in the area as well so I will give you a wave if I pass-by. What body shop are you using? I need to do a little work on mine (paint would be nice if I can get it done cheap)

 

[chatt100]

Truck looks great. I'm in the area as well so I will give you a wave if I pass-by. What body shop are you using? I need to do a little work on mine (paint would be nice if I can get it done cheap)

Thanks! Will keep an eye out. Its at Rivermont Paint and Body. They have done a great job but taking far longer than I expected or hoped for. The owner Jim is very knowledgeable and does high quality work. They have a lifetime warranty on their repairs so they really stand behind their work. They were the only local shop I was able to find that was even willing to do it so you take what you can get I guess. PM me if you have more specific questions about them

 

[jpoole]

@chatt100

I'm also in Chattanooga and have been keeping an eye out for paint-shops as my 80 needs a full respray. Out of the few shops that I've visited Rivermont was the only one that said they'd do the repaint. I wasn't able to get very firm numbers/timing from them but the job was probably going to cost more than it would be worth to me. I have been planning to go by again to get a better estimate now that I've fixed the body work issues to help me decide if I'll do the paint myself, keep looking at different shops or just get a budget maaco job. Let me know if you get any solid leads on a re-paint shop in the area and if I find any interesting details/estimates I can pass them along.