Family FJ Build : '76 40 Resto/Frame Off (a.k.a. the Japanese Baby Buggy) (1 Viewer)

[zerotreedelta]

Driver's knuckle blown apart and parts all degreased...they'll need de-rusting and paint tomorrow, but managed to get the pits removed from the ball end and all polished up nicely...I'll take it.

All new bearings/seals/etc on hand as well, so hopefully a quick reassembly, then on to the pax side...

 

[macdaddy59]

What did you polish it with?

 

[zerotreedelta]

What did you polish it with?

Felt like a bit of everything.

I've got some scotchbrite disks for the die grinder...started there as it was the most gentle. That got the rust and cruft off, but revealed pitting. I shifted to the pneumatic DA sander in unlocked/orbital mode with 400, but moved up to 220 when I saw I could be more aggressive with it without issue.

I then tried locking in the head on the DA to get a bit more rotation, and that worked really well with the 220 followed by the 400. Some 600 or 800 would've been nice but I didn't have any on hand and the 400 actually left a decent finish.

Then I hit it with the rouge wheel and metal polish bar on the angle grinder for the final buff...hopefully the extra sheen will help with some corrosion resistance.

 

[zerotreedelta]

One down...one to go.

 

[DEADSALT]

right front spring pack arrow facing to rear?

 

[zerotreedelta]

It is, but the arrow points to the fixed mount per OME - fixed mount is to the rear for the fronts.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Side two cleaned up, just waiting to snag more moly' to get the axle and spindle all back on. Started on the Warn hubs this morning though...mildly better.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Ahhh, better.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Both knuckles all done, inside to out. Nothing too difficult, but a slow job - especially some of the hardware. Changing the diff fluid tomorrow, and had to order in some socket cap screws...the rebuild kit from SOR shipped the wrong allen screws for the end cap. Just used a few old ones for now to keep things assembled, easy enough to swap out once the new ones come it.

Ended up making a homemade roll cartridge for the die grinder from some 400 grit longboard roll sandpaper and the old brake pad retaining pin, worked pretty good to get into the recesses of the Warns. A polishing pad and a rouge bar for the die grinder gave the final polish.

Good for another 45 years...

 

[zerotreedelta]

Back on its feet, complete with its new shoes (sans hubcaps for now to avoid shop dings).

Wetsanding and buffing the tub before starting engine/trans assembly...the Jeep was watching intently from the driveway.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Finally finished buffing out the tub, it's now waiting patiently to go onto the chassis. I didn't think of it until the other day, but the rotisserie should be pretty handy to get quite a bit of that dash and firewall reassembly done before dunking it back on the frame - pedal boxes, knobs/cables, brake booster, etc. Last time I did it rolling on the floor with the cowling split from the tub and off the frame...would be nice to be able to be a bit more vertical this time.

Got everything prepped for engine re-assembly - should have everything I need, but will need to do another pass to check tomorrow.

On an interesting side note, I noticed the rings that came with the ITM pistons are from Japan - no manufacturer markings though. Just found it interesting - curious to compare them to the Hastings rings I have on hand that are going in. It also seems like the dome-top pistons are still pretty hard to find - I see some sites with the .040 over ones now at least, though.

 

[Andrew S]

How long has that Sniper EFI box been hiding in the background??

 

[zerotreedelta]

Ha, I picked that up this winter, it's also been waiting patiently.

That box is the matching Holley distributor, getting one last test fit with the modifications to fit the 2F while the oil pan is off...much easier to check oil pump engagement and cam gear fit. Definitely curious to see how controlling timing with the Holley works out.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Engine build back on hold...something up with the replacement main bearings: 2F Rebuild - New rings/bearings running loose to spec? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2f-rebuild-new-rings-bearings-running-loose-to-spec.1258693/

I started eyeballing the dash reassembly, and after looking at the black dashpads and the OEM mats, I ordered up some brushed black Seadek...showed up today. The width is pretty good for the rear area, and one roll should actually have enough to do the rear as well as the front footwells if I want to. Not committed yet, but does seem like it'll give a good OEM-like look without sliding around, as well as a bit of sound deadening. I've got the original front rubber TOYOTA floormat, so that's still likely going back in as well.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Back at it after being away from home for a week...engine all back together, managed to match a set of bearings and rings up. Clutch is in, trans back on...hopefully into the chassis tomorrow. Valve cover even got a quick polish!

From there, need to button up the fuel lines, get the Sniper on, fabricate up the exhaust, and give it the initial run.

I think it's a bit cleaner now.

 

[zerotreedelta]

And back into its rightful home. Much better.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Manifolds on, working on 2.5" stainless exhaust all the way back. I was going to use the factory downpipe, but decided to just run the stainless the whole way. Put in a v-band clamp between the downpipe and the horizontal runner, should make any work a bit easier down the road - pretty easy to drop the tailpipe and muffler.

Working on my tig skills, getting a bit better...plenty more welding left for tomorrow to work on it.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Radiator, starter, alternator, battery tray, etc all back on...slowly removing the parts from the basement and back onto the rig.

Sniper and Hyperspark both installed, although the wiring is still long/temporary so I could get some runtime in before the body goes on, just in case of any issues. Hyperspark initial setup was pretty simple, although I'll need to do some research as to what the factory timing curve is...only needed the basics for now at least. I did chuckle that the default rev limiter setting is 20,000RPM, though.

Fired right up on the first crank and idled, and seemed to sound ok at mild break-in RPMs. The only snafu' I ran into was the battery was a bit low from sitting over the winter, so I couldn't do a longer run as the fuel pump and ECU would draw the battery down low enough to make the ECU reboot. The alternator is in place, but not wired in as the regulator and wiring loom are all on the firewall, so there's no voltage feed to help keep things happy. I did run to the hangar to get my good battery charger that has a supply mode, but ran out of time in the day at that point. We'll see what the battery takes for a charge in the AM.

But hey, progress.

 

[Travis 76]

I don’t remember seeing if you had, but make sure you have a zinc additive in your oil.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Oil is all zinc'd up - used Royal Purple break-in oil with the zinc already in. Going to give it a couple short trips once it's driving, then put one more fresh change of the break-in oil and a new filter, then run that through for a few hundred miles

Had a few delays, but good progress today...transfer case front output seal was weeping, so nabbed that before dropping the tub on. No leaks at this point from stem to stern, so that's a good thing.

Got all the brake lines on the firewall bent up and installed, the majority of the dash together while I could use the rotisserie, and dropped the flares on as well while there was room in the rear wells. Tub went on pretty easily using the chain hoist to get it off the rotisserie, other than some lingering fitment fun with the body mounts from the CCOT tub snafu. But it's on, and it's looking more and more like a rig again. Fairly happy with the wheel/tire size and how it landed with the JDM-style flares, and the hubcaps worked out pretty decently as well for using rims they're not meant to fit on.

Still need to paint the trans tunnel cover and gas tank cover, so that's next up...they're holding up being able to get jamming on the interior.