Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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This thing is dialed! I achieved nearly 17MPG on my drive back from Bend. I kept it at 65 the whole way. One thing the picture of the app below has incorrect is that I'm not using premium fuel. Regular unleaded, 18 degrees initial timing, blue MSD springs and the vac line is hooked up to the regular vac advance port.

It's not 100% believable until I can repeat this. I'm halfway through another tank now where all of the driving was highway. I'll be doing a fair amount of city driving with the rest of the tank so when I go to fill up again if it's anywhere near 15 I'll know that the below numbers are accurate.


08B1A4C7-8AD3-4F89-B1F6-78EBB7DC140D.png
 
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77CruiserDog said:
This thing is dialed! I achieved nearly 17MPG on my drive back from Bend. I kept it at 65 the whole way. One thing the picture of the app below has incorrect is that I'm not using premium fuel. Regular unleaded, 18 degrees initial timing, blue MSD springs and the vac line is hooked up to the regular vac advance port.

It's not 100% believable until I can repeat this. I'm halfway through another tank now where all of the driving was highway. I'll be doing a fair amount of city driving with the rest of the tank so when I go to fill up again if it's anywhere near 15 I'll know that the below numbers are accurate.
Click to expand...
That’s awesome performance. That timing seems crazy advanced to me though. I have the MSD distributor springs same as you, and got pinging at 13 degrees base timing on 87 octane.
 
open country said:
That’s awesome performance. That timing seems crazy advanced to me though. I have the MSD distributor springs same as you, and got pinging at 13 degrees base timing on 87 octane.
Click to expand...

I agree, I started pinging in a similar range and backed down to 10-11 degrees.

@77CruiserDog how are you measuring the timing?
 
77CruiserDog said:
Yeah I've long suspected that something was different about my timing. My 40 series likes it around 10 degrees. However this rig at 18 degrees hums all day long with no pinging on regular.
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I've yet to verify it but because I'm using the line vs the bb, I'm looking at a number that is about 7 degrees more than the ACTUAL timing number... so that's where my difference is. Based on this, and again I've yet to verify it, I think it's actually timed at 11 degrees. I'll check it if I have time. It was bugging me that I felt like the 18 degrees number wasn't accurate. HA!
 
77CruiserDog said:
I've yet to verify it but because I'm using the line vs the bb, I'm looking at a number that is about 7 degrees more than the ACTUAL timing number... so that's where my difference is. Based on this, and again I've yet to verify it, I think it's actually timed at 11 degrees. I'll check it if I have time. It was bugging me that I felt like the 18 degrees number wasn't accurate. HA!
Click to expand...
That makes sense. I use the BB on the light and ended up right about 11 with a degree or so of safety to pinging.
 
77CruiserDog said:
After a call with one of the awesome people at Tom Woods Driveshafts, I removed the 4 degree caster shims I put under the front axle. The driveshaft vibrations are gone and there is no perceivable bump steer.

I’m impressed with the folks at Tom Woods Driveshafts. Excellent service and beyond helpful.

View attachment 3114981

Mountain biking the other day where I park was a mini white Land Cruiser meet up. Never met the person who owned it but I hope they drooled over mine as much as I did their rig.
Click to expand...

When you say you removed the front shims and driveshaft vibes went away, I'm assuming you were talking about front shaft vibrations? Why were you getting front shaft vibes? Do you drive high speeds with the front hubs locked? You will not get driveshaft vibes from the front if driving with the front hubs unlocked as intended.
The shims are to help the front end 'wandering' and grabbing road imperfections at speed, not stop bump steer.
 
I use the 4wd mostly when headed up to Mt Bachelor to go skiing. The speeds are between 35mph and 50mph, depending on traffic and conditions. I typically only lock the hubs in advance when I know I'm going to be hitting snow or ice along the way. This allows me to put it in 4wd when needed. Other than that it stays in 2wd with the hubs unlocked.

The vibrations in the front driveline started at 5mph and shook so violently that I never drove it above 30mph with the hubs locked after I put in the new shims. When I took it in for the new differential gears, the shop told me that there was a bad vibration in that front driveshaft. I reached out to Tom Woods and gave him the angles of the drive flange from the transfer case and the differential and he said, yep... yank out that 4 degree shim, it's causing the driveshaft vibrations. I did so and it runs smooth as silk now.

I originally put the 4 degree shims in the front thinking they were necessary, however when I had it aligned the shims caused it to be way out of spec in the direction of too much caster. See below. With the shims removed it drives great, I don't feel any wandering or grabbing. There isn't an inordinant amount of bump steer or vaugeness in returning to center. Seems to drive great now.

C47EEE5E-A122-4E41-8542-7EDDDD06DE3C.jpeg
 
77CruiserDog said:
I use the 4wd mostly when headed up to Mt Bachelor to go skiing. The speeds are between 35mph and 50mph, depending on traffic and conditions. I typically only lock the hubs in advance when I know I'm going to be hitting snow or ice along the way. This allows me to put it in 4wd when needed. Other than that it stays in 2wd with the hubs unlocked.

The vibrations in the front driveline started at 5mph and shook so violently that I never drove it above 30mph with the hubs locked after I put in the new shims. When I took it in for the new differential gears, the shop told me that there was a bad vibration in that front driveshaft. I reached out to Tom Woods and gave him the angles of the drive flange from the transfer case and the differential and he said, yep... yank out that 4 degree shim, it's causing the driveshaft vibrations. I did so and it runs smooth as silk now.

I originally put the 4 degree shims in the front thinking they were necessary, however when I had it aligned the shims caused it to be way out of spec in the direction of too much caster. See below. With the shims removed it drives great, I don't feel any wandering or grabbing. There isn't an inordinant amount of bump steer or vaugeness in returning to center. Seems to drive great now.
Click to expand...
77CruiserDog said:
I use the 4wd mostly when headed up to Mt Bachelor to go skiing. The speeds are between 35mph and 50mph, depending on traffic and conditions. I typically only lock the hubs in advance when I know I'm going to be hitting snow or ice along the way. This allows me to put it in 4wd when needed. Other than that it stays in 2wd with the hubs unlocked.

The vibrations in the front driveline started at 5mph and shook so violently that I never drove it above 30mph with the hubs locked after I put in the new shims. When I took it in for the new differential gears, the shop told me that there was a bad vibration in that front driveshaft. I reached out to Tom Woods and gave him the angles of the drive flange from the transfer case and the differential and he said, yep... yank out that 4 degree shim, it's causing the driveshaft vibrations. I did so and it runs smooth as silk now.

I originally put the 4 degree shims in the front thinking they were necessary, however when I had it aligned the shims caused it to be way out of spec in the direction of too much caster. See below. With the shims removed it drives great, I don't feel any wandering or grabbing. There isn't an inordinant amount of bump steer or vaugeness in returning to center. Seems to drive great now.

View attachment 3130638
Click to expand...

Interesting on the shims, most swear they are much better with the shims. What is your caster now after removing the shims?
 
Skniper said:
Interesting on the shims, most swear they are much better with the shims. What is your caster now after removing the shims?
Click to expand...
Yeah I assumed they were necessary based on other builds I've read. I will say that they're nice in my 40 series... that thing would "Crazy Ivan" over any kind of bump in the road.

Not sure exactly where the caster sits now, however, if I'm to believe the alignment report, taking the 4 degree shim out would put it roughly at 0 degrees.

I asked my contact at Tom Woods if I should swap the 4 degree shim for a 2 degree and he said that wouldn't be enough of a change to get rid of the driveline vibrations. I figure it doesn't have any kind of steering issues now and I can drive in 4wd with zero vibrations so I suppose even if it's not the perfect amount of caster it's a good compromise.
 
77CruiserDog said:
I finally stomached the idea of putting a post up for sale in the MUD classified section. Pictures to come. $42k seems fair considering the time and money I have in this rig. Makes me really sad to sell it, but I've gotten past that and hope the person who buys it enjoys the hell out of it!!

For Sale - Seattle WA / Bend OR, 1984 Toyota FJ60 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seattle-wa-bend-or-1984-toyota-fj60.1295591/

Now it's time for a car wash and some pictures.
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly @Skniper
 
77CruiserDog said:
I finally stomached the idea of putting a post up for sale in the MUD classified section. Pictures to come. $42k seems fair considering the time and money I have in this rig. Makes me really sad to sell it, but I've gotten past that and hope the person who buys it enjoys the hell out of it!!

For Sale - Seattle WA / Bend OR, 1984 Toyota FJ60 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seattle-wa-bend-or-1984-toyota-fj60.1295591/

Now it's time for a car wash and some pictures.
Click to expand...

Are that 4 and 2 transposed by chance?
 
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