Fairleads, what to do?

[FineWynsFJ40]

I'm in the process of tearing apart my Warn M8274 and have purchased a synthetic winch line for it. I would like to not have to buy a new fairlead, as I have two fairleads that the previous owner included - the original Warn Hawse cast steel fairlead, and a roller fairlead.

My choices are:

1. Remove used rollers and replace with Delrin rollers. I can buy all materials required (Delrin acetal rod and stainless steel retaining rings) for about $30 from McMaster-Carr. I have access to a lathe at work to make the rollers, and equipment to strip and paint the fairlead frame.

2. Clean, strip, and polish the cast steel fairlead to a finish similar to the polished aluminum fairleads on the market. The fairlead is in pretty good shape, and has a large inlet radius.

3. As a last resort, I suppose I could purchase a fairlead, but I'd rather use what I have first.

The primary use for this winch will be utility, not necessarily vehicle recovery. Obviously, I'd like to be able to get myself or someone else out of a pinch, but I will be using it to pull out bushes and trees, move some deer blinds around on the property, help winch deer up out of gulleys and ravines during deer season, as well as other tasks that may come up requiring a winch. To summarize, not ideal winch angles at low load will be what this will see the most.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions, stories, and advice.

Brian

 

[Mace]

Polish the cast steel hawse fairlead.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

I realize I should have made this a poll, but don't know how to add one in after a thread has been made. Any case, were I to polish the hawse fairlead, should I coat it with anything? Tractor enamel, clear coat, etc.? I'm not well versed in what wear resistant anti-corrosion coatings are out there that would survive a winch fairlead application.

Thanks!
Brian

 

[Gottagetone]

I like my delrin rollers.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

After more research, and Woody telling me to, I went out and bought the $25 Smittybuilt aluminum hawse fairlead. I think this is probably the best choice for my application, and about the same cost as converting the rollers to delrin. I might anyway and sell it. Anyone need some fairleads?

Thanks for the help!
Brian

 

[george_tlc]

Good choice on the Al hawse, that's what I've run on my two 4wds with synthetic and never had any issues and no risk of pinching the rope on bizarro side/angle pulls.

cheers,
george.

 

[Warn Industries]

For about $38.99, you can get a new WARN polished aluminum fairlead, if that's an option for you.

WARN 87914 - WARN Polished Aluminum Hawse Fairlead for Synthetic Rope - Quadratec

- Andy

 

[1911]

Steel rollers work fine with synthetic line, as long as they have no burrs or nicks.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

^Right. The roller fairlead that I have was used with a steel rope, so it's torn up pretty good. I'm thinking I will probably get the materials, convert it to a Delrin roller fairlead, then sell it to pay for the Al fairlead I just got

The synthetic line seems to glide right over the Al hawse, so I'm not worried any more about friction or abrasion on the fairlead.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Guess I might as well jump in on the fairlead pimpin'.

Southeast Overland aluminum hawse fairleads start at $45. -10% for MUD members = $40.50. Machined in the US. Pic below is of a black fairlead. Lowest price is for raw aluminum color.

Available HERE.



As to what will work - I prefer an aluminum hawse fairlead for synthetic line. New steel or Delrin rollers will work. Steel rollers have to be totally burr free and smoooooooth. Aluminum fairlead provides a smooth surface, and a bit lighter (if weight matters in this small amount to you).

 

[1911]

FWIW, I have two winches in two different trucks, both with synthetic line; one with a steel roller fairlead and the other with an aluminum hawse fairlead. Both work fine. One observation though is that the protective sheath (that I have on the ends of both winchlines) will sometimes catch and bunch up on the hawse fairlead whereas it never does on the roller fairlead. A minor point, but about the only difference in practical use.

 

[Dell]

every roller fairlead I've seen mounted...
hangs off the front end like a rock magnet

sucks to give up any approach angle
or hammer those rollers into the terrain/rocks

alloy hawse... problem solved

 

[1911]

every roller fairlead I've seen mounted...
hangs off the front end like a rock magnet

sucks to give up any approach angle
or hammer those rollers into the terrain/rocks

alloy hawse... problem solved

Depends on the truck I guess; on mine that has the roller fairlead, the front spring hangers will always hit before the roller fairlead so it's a moot point.

 

[80t0ylc]

every roller fairlead I've seen mounted...
hangs off the front end like a rock magnet

sucks to give up any approach angle
or hammer those rollers into the terrain/rocks

alloy hawse... problem solved

Maybe you don't know this, but hawse fairleads have been quite common as long as winches have been used. Roller fairleads were developed to reduce or eliminate the biggest problem to the hawse: friction on an angled pull. Depending on your rope (wire or synthetic), you are not solving all of your problems replacing a roller with a hawse.

 

[Gottagetone]

^And that's the main reason I went with replacement Delrin rollers. I had a friend make em for me for about $20.

 

[Mace]

Synthetic rope winch lines are much more forgiving to extreme angles compared to wire rope.

I don;t see it as much of a benefit any more.

And, I have seen winch ropes pinched in roller fairleads. Given the choice, I'll stick to a nice AL or plastic hawse fairlead with winch rope.

 

[80t0ylc]

Synthetic rope winch lines are much more forgiving to extreme angles compared to wire rope......

How so?

.........I don;t see it as much of a benefit any more.

And, I have seen winch ropes pinched in roller fairleads. Given the choice, I'll stick to a nice AL or plastic hawse fairlead with winch rope.

So you must be speaking of winching with synthetic, which is what the OP was asking about, and I have no experience with. So I'm assuming the problem with synthetic line and rollers is the tendancy for the line to not stay on the roller and seek a corner of the roller fairlead. Because under heavy duress, there is no way any line would not benefit from being on a roller as opposed to any stationary surface. Even as smooth a surface as plastic or aluminum, you're still going to have friction which introduces heat and wear.

Yes, I know and have seen wire ropes get caught in the corners too. Usually its been an equipment condition problem........worn cable or cheap/worn fairlead..........or even possibly extreme load/angle.

 

[Mace]

How so?

You do understand that synthetic rope does not have the "memory" of wire rope? You can run it around a 1" bar, pull it tight, and then release it with no undue stress to the synthetic rope itself. If you did that to a wire rope, you would have a major kink (seriously weakened spot) in the rope.

So you must be speaking of winching with synthetic, which is what the OP was asking about, and I have no experience with. So I'm assuming the problem with synthetic line and rollers is the tendancy for the line to not stay on the roller and seek a corner of the roller fairlead. Because under heavy duress, there is no way any line would not benefit from being on a roller as opposed to any stationary surface. Even as smooth a surface as plastic or aluminum, you're still going to have friction which introduces heat and wear.

Yes, I know and have seen wire ropes get caught in the corners too. Usually its been an equipment condition problem........worn cable or cheap/worn fairlead..........or even possibly extreme load/angle.

Yes I was talking about synthetic.

The thing is that when winching yourself/someone else out of a situation, you are doing something that is non-textbook. Extreme load/angles are very common and crap happens. The pinched synthetic lines I have seen were due to extreme angles. Unfortunately, that was the best way to extract the vehicle at the time.

Rolling over a radius is beneficial, but if it ends up causing an issue, then going back to a tried and true hawse fairlead is the better choice.

BTW, I am not aware of any Winch Manufacturer that ships their winches with synthetic line and rollers, hawse is the most common. Most manu do ship the steel rope winches with roller fairleads.

 

[80t0ylc]

You do understand that synthetic rope does not have the "memory" of wire rope? You can run it around a 1" bar, pull it tight, and then release it with no undue stress to the synthetic rope itself. If you did that to a wire rope, you would have a major kink (seriously weakened spot) in the rope...........

Wow, I did not know that! I had not thought about that, but hell yes, that is very forgiving!

...........Yes I was talking about synthetic.

The thing is that when winching yourself/someone else out of a situation, you are doing something that is non-textbook. Extreme load/angles are very common and crap happens. The pinched synthetic lines I have seen were due to extreme angles. Unfortunately, that was the best way to extract the vehicle at the time.

Rolling over a radius is beneficial, but if it ends up causing an issue, then going back to a tried and true hawse fairlead is the better choice.

BTW, I am not aware of any Winch Manufacturer that ships their winches with synthetic line and rollers, hawse is the most common. Most manu do ship the steel rope winches with roller fairleads.

I can see how superior synthetic can be in an extreme load pull. Plus with the advantages in handling, it would be much more desirable to use. I still have some reservations about durability and care of synthetic - I think it's the old school in me. And synthetic is definitely more expensive, but probably worth it. Some day - maybe . In a group, it would be an advantage, I think, to have both wire rope and synthetic available - depending on weather and conditions. Thanks for the help in understanding!

 

[Dell]

Depends on the truck I guess; on mine that has the roller fairlead, the front spring hangers will always hit before the roller fairlead so it's a moot point.

Thanks for disqualifying my opinion
I have played in many rock gardens...
and on occasion...
sometimes have had to put the nose of my junk into a boulder...
just to make room, to back up and choose a new line.
So I don't think my point is moot at all

Maybe you don't know this, but hawse fairleads have been quite common as long as winches have been used. Roller fairleads were developed to reduce or eliminate the biggest problem to the hawse: friction on an angled pull. Depending on your rope (wire or synthetic), you are not solving all of your problems replacing a roller with a hawse.

Thanks for assuming I know nothing
But I have resolved 100% of my winching issues.

link = > my knowledge of things < = link