Failed CA smog test (1 Viewer)

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fyton2v

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Jan 7, 2004
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Location
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
Though the results were not as bad as I thought I would be.

Passed everything bot NOx PPM. Max allowed are 1507 at 15mph and 1367 at 25mph. I was at 1682 and 1663.

Any tips on what should be done to lower NOx emissions?

Thanks!
 
Also, in case anyone would like to know my timing is set to 11 degrees BTDC at 650 RPMs.
 
Other test results were:

%CO2 at 13.50 and 13.58
%O2 at 1.52 and 1.38
HC at 98 and 97
CO at .38 and .35
 
1) Make sure that your EGR is working.
2) Set timing to the factory spec of 7 degrees BTDC
3) Make sure that your vacuum retard is working.
 
smog

I used the consumer assistance program with one of my trucks. Basically, Cali will pay for up to $500 in repairs at a Gold Smog Shop (you pay the first $100) to get your car smog ready... It takes about 3 weeks for the paperwork to be approved, however, its a really cool deal if you want it to be fixed right. Check out the link below and d/l the forms, send them in with your failed smog paperwork and they will approve your application.

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/stdPage.asp?Body=/geninfo/factsheets/Consumer_Assistance_Program.htm
 
That's not that bad... Check EGR and set timing to 7 as said before. You're close. What year is your truck?

Nial
 
It's a '78 with a stock 2F.

Any tips on how to tell if EGR is working? Also, I found an exhaust leak between the exhuast manifold and intake manifold (at the gasket in-between). Would this make things worse?

I didn't know CA would pay would help pay for this. Good advice.
 
fyton2v said:
It's a '78 with a stock 2F.

Any tips on how to tell if EGR is working? Also, I found an exhaust leak between the exhuast manifold and intake manifold (at the gasket in-between). Would this make things worse?

I didn't know CA would pay would help pay for this. Good advice.

Testing EGR function:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=48990

If the EGR is stuck closed, you can remove it and clean the valve seat with carb dip (do not soak the rubber diaphragm on top).

I doubt the exhaust leak would make any difference, but it probably makes an annoying noise.
 
Thanks for the link.

I'd convinced myself that the exhaust I was smelling was blowing back in from the tailpipe. But now that I've fine tuned the idle the engine is quiet enough to where you can hear the leak when idling.
 
Make sure that you get a "pre-test" to see if it will pass before you run the test hooked into the DMV computer.

If you fail again, you'll likely be put on the gross-polluter profile and will then have all your vehicles go to a test only.
 
As Kofoed said. . . do the pre-test. I had a Heep CJ that I sold a few months ago and got flagged as a gross polluter. You don't want that as it complicates things significantly. . .
 
This is by no means the correct way to fix a smog problem, but installing a new Cat will get any vehicle to pass the tailpipe test. The B A R and the State governments don't want people to know this fact for obvious reasons. The new cat will not last as long as it would in a properly operating smog system, but it will get you through a test or two. I remind you that this is only a "band-aid" to give you more time to fix things properly.
Goodluck.....
 
Atlas43 said:
installing a new Cat will get any vehicle to pass the tailpipe test. .....

I'm not trying to be disgreeable, but this just isn't true. Catalysts help reduce emissions, but they don't do miracles. There are lots of vehicles out there with good catalysts that don't pass.
 
I'm not too worried about smog. I almost passed which gave me some comfort. I wanted to know what I was up against before I started the restore so I was mostly concerned that this (new to me) truck would fail miserably. With advice from you kind people... well, most of you are kind :)... I'm sure I can get it to pass.

I've already started stripping down the tub. I'll document the process for posterity.
 
When my Heep had problems passing smog the first thing I did was install a new cat. It helped but didn't get the rig to pass. I still needed to have the O2 sensor changed and the carb leaned WAY out. It was so lean that it wouldn't idle and ran like crap, but it passed. . . .

Kind of defeats the purpose when you "de-tune" it back to where it was pre-test once you pass. . .
 
fyton2v said:
I'm not too worried about smog. I almost passed which gave me some comfort. I wanted to know what I was up against before I started the restore so I was mostly concerned that this (new to me) truck would fail miserably. With advice from you kind people... well, most of you are kind :)... I'm sure I can get it to pass.

I've already started stripping down the tub. I'll document the process for posterity.


Don't worry about smog. Since your starting the restore now it will be smog exempt by the time your done :grinpimp:
 
I hope to finish before the end of the summer.... in 2010.

You have to be careful in CA regarding smog exemption. I don't think any vehicle newer than 1975 will get the exemption. I thought that it was a rolling 30 year thing, but I think that is stopping this year.
 
fyton2v said:
I hope to finish before the end of the summer.... in 2010.

You have to be careful in CA regarding smog exemption. I don't think any vehicle newer than 1975 will get the exemption. I thought that it was a rolling 30 year thing, but I think that is stopping this year.

You are correct. No more 30 year and older exemption.
To be classified as a gross polluter you have to produce numbers significantly higher than your truck did.
I would follow Pin Head's advice and check out that EGR.
 

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