Fail Colorado Emissions Test Again (1 Viewer)

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??? The coil is fired by the ECU via the igniter. That's means the ECU can do whatever it wants with the timing (to the limit of the rotor sweep)... We don't have points in our 80's...

Have you ever looked at the rotor of an 80 inside the distributor cap? It has a LOT of rotational contact area with each spark plug contact point - this allows quite a bit of timing variation (when the coil is fired) and still have the rotor touching the appropriate spark plug contact point.

cheers,
george.
Thanks for the info. I never looked into the details. That's one of the few systems I haven't delved into on a Cruiser!
 
Yeah. You have to make the ECU happy in order for the ECU to make you happy. You could have a loose knock sensor wire and that would do it.

I have a loose vacuum line somewhere (my own fault probably) and super rough idle, a CEL and i dunno how many obd1 codes, and i don't have near as much horsepower as i usually do.

I have the proprietary diagnostic interface for my 2007 VW, and you'd be amazed how much a modern engine controller can tell you about what is going on and what is going wrong. Plus it has like 3 feet of vacuum line including the brake booster.
 
Went to the station in Brighton, CO that sells 100% gasoline. Its the Murphy station cross from Walmart.
Its 88 octane vs 85 for regular E10 gas and is $0.30 more per gallon.
I was going to try the gas but just found out I am going back to AK end of Feb. My plates expire with grace period Feb 28 so AK said they will give me a 60 temp tag to get up there. CO offered a 15 Travel permit to get up to AK.

By law, I am suppose to register my vehicle in AK if I work up there, don't have to change my driver license as I will not be a resident (strange rules). Any way I will buy plates in AK when I get there.

So now I no longer have to try and fix the NOx.

I ended my Canola Oil home brew motor oil test. I put 400 miles on the oil and the start up smoke decreased by the end of test. Wish it was not so cold or I would continue the test. Veggie oil gets solid when I out it the deep freezer and I don't know what the long term weather temps will be. When I changed the veggie oil today, it came out with a reddish tint to it. My engine has a reddish varnish coating all over the head under the valve cover from what ever oil the PO used.

Had it be warmer out, I would run a few more canola oil changes/flushes and then remove the valve cover and see if it cleaned the motor and if my start up smoke decrease even more. I used store bought canola and other veggie oils for my test. From what I read, you need to use unrefined canola oil if you want to run it for more than 12 hrs. Refined canola oil clumps up after 12 hrs of driving per person that came up with the mix.
 
Yes, my own home brew canola oil mix based off what I found on the internet.
The old 80 just loved it. I had no idea she was a vegetarian and didn't like alcohol, now that is abuse making her eat dino gas/oil and ethanol blended gas.

I hope she doesn't barf on the Valvoline High Mileage semi/syn 10w40 i just dump in her.
She spent half her life on Rotella T/T6.
 
I am getting Code 25 26 very intermittently now. The O2's have 94,000 mi on them and were changed in 2011.
When I cleaned them 2 years ago, I didn't get intermittent CEL. This is probably why I passed last time with cleaning cats, O2's and using G-Oil (veggie oil) and this year I got very close to passing.
 
Wait???? You were using Canola oil for engine oil??

I think I have heard it all. I know you no longer love your 80, but this is just abuse. Lol.
That's what canola/rapeseed oil was originally used for, an industrial lubricant for things like steam engines. Then they had to figure out a way to make it "edible" when demand for it declined.

- Cliff Claven
 

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