Factory sound deadener (1 Viewer)

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What about a needle scaler? Might help loosen it up enough that you can get underneath it with a putty knife. I haven't tried this, just an idea.
 
there are attachments for reciprocating saws, sawzall, it's wide and flat, maybe3" wide, glass guys use them for removing glass from the urethane glue.
we got a set of 3 different blades from Fastenal, I think. made by Milwaukee.
wonder if they would work??
 
Like @4Cruisers said... The only time I have been successful getting that crap off was with cold. Heat from a blade of flame makes in worse.
When it's cold it just chipped off.
 
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I used a wood chisel and mallet when the temp was around 40* and the thick tar just chipped off very nicely. Time consuming to be sure. I followed up with a razor blade scraper for the bits that remained. Lacquer thinner wipe down. Dry Ice would work if it is not very cold where you are. Just use good ventilation as dry ice is just CO2 and can deprive you of the oxygen you need. Good luck!
 
I have tried a few methods. Cold and a chisel works, however it often dents the metal underneath if you are not careful. I prefer the light heat method. I heat it up using a heat gun and peel it off. It takes awhile, however after using a cleaner to remove the residue it is the best method I have found. (I use gas to de-tar it) I know dangerous but affective!
 
Just like @Helipilot I used a wood chisel and a mallet.
When I got the angle right the deadener came off in decent sized chunks.
 
I use a Fein-type reciprocating tool, comes off very easily
 
I recently used dry ice, it just popped right out with some light hammer blows int he right places after placing the ice where I wanted
to remove the tar. I still had to use some solvent to final clean it up, but overall, the dry ice was an excellent way to just pop the stuff
out. A small (1.5" wide) paint scraper and a hammer, just hit it on the sides after a thorough chilling and voila! I used about 5 lbs of dry ice to get it all off.

Cheers!
 

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