Factory roof rack holes rusted through - how best to fill? (1 Viewer)

redeye

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Oct 20, 2010
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543
Location
Central NJ
Hi all,
I had to remove the factory roof rack to install a new Prinsu low profile rack last year. In a couple spots the threaded hole had rusted through the roof. So I was left with a couple small holes. I was in a pinch and since my Cruiser is too tall to fit in my garage I ended up using - don't kill me here - bathroom caulk to fill the holes. I needed it done immediately to avoid water infiltration into the truck and since it's only caulk I figured I could remove it later.

Ideally I'd have a body shop remove the remaining roof rails, fill and weld the holes, and repaint the entire roof. I've called one local body shop who will not fix it because they don't want to mess up the headliner by removing it to weld the holes.

Let's say I couldn't find a replacement headliner and wanted to resolve this issue in some other way. Any ideas or advice here? Some sort of epoxy filler and bedliner the roof? I'm not opposed to that, but not loving it either. The truck is a rust free (except for these small problems on the roof) 40th Anniversary example in great shape and I'm considering selling though not seriously.

Thanks,

Ed
 

YMT

Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Messages
414
Location
El Portal, CA
This has been covered many times, if you search.

The headliner is very easy to remove without damaging, even solo, but better with a second person. If you're not up to the task, try a Toyota dealer, at least for the removal.

Caulk works for short time, while keeping elements out. So, not a huge no no.

The best option is welding. Non-weld options are aluminum tape and steel stick. Or, most auto parts shops carry plugs for antenna holes, which would need some sealant (probably least best option).
 

FMC80

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Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
622
Location
Honolulu, Hawaii
This has been covered many times, if you search.

The headliner is very easy to remove without damaging, even solo, but better with a second person. If you're not up to the task, try a Toyota dealer, at least for the removal.

Caulk works for short time, while keeping elements out. So, not a huge no no.

The best option is welding. Non-weld options are aluminum tape and steel stick. Or, most auto parts shops carry plugs for antenna holes, which would need some sealant (probably least best option).
X2 on what @YMT said. Look at this thread Removing factory roof rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-factory-roof-rack.976361/#post-10857869
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Round Rock, Texas
@redeye

I have a similar problem and a resolution that may work for you as well.

* Note- this is of course subjective and relative, but IMO removing the headliner is not an easy affair on the early FJ/FZJ80's. Indeed, for 95 and up its a molded piece that comes out easily, however earlier models are traditional bow and glued construction, though the glue iirc is the pillars only, and you wouldn't have to remove it that far to be able to weld up the holes I don't think.

On to the story/suggestion- I picked up yet another new-to-me FZJ80 this past weekend, and the PO removed the roof rack strips and rails completely, leaving holes filled with silicone. Since the strips on the roof are on raised ridges, less water should invade than one might think, and a riv-nut with a rubber washer might work for you and would also provide mounting points for a frame for a solar panel or whatever you might like to mount there. The beauty of this is also that you don't have to access inside to install.

There are many brands that you can source online at your favorite marketplace, plus consumables are easy to come by. You will have to buy the tool (or perhaps a friend already has one?) but like so many other tools, think of the possibilities!

Hope this helps.

ATXKMM
 
Joined
May 20, 2007
Messages
4,838
Location
Riyadh and Auburn
Just adding to what @ATXKMM said. You can buy closed end rivnuts (or nutserts if you will). Those would certainly be a cheap alternative until you can get them welded assuming the holes aren't too large. Regardless you should treat the rust after removing the caulk with something as it most certainly is still rusting under the caulk. Pics would help a lot for us to assess the situation if you have any.
 

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