Factory Rear e-locker wont disengage (1 Viewer)

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Tomorrow, I'll jack up the rear end and try to get that PS axle shaft out. I have a feeling I twisted it. I was putting some gnarly force on it today.
If, as you say your going to be putting some really "gnarly force" on your rear axle. You may want to perform the mod listed in the thread below, BEFORE you twist the axle splines.
 
Update: temporarily I have the locker disengaged. I couldn't pull the gear faceplate off, the first two 10mm broke off even with heat...so I took off the sensor plate and removed the 10mm bolt in the fork, pushed the fork towards the PS and it released the locker! Now...here's to hoping it stays released until I get the new unit on Thursday. 🤞🏻🙏🏻
 
Update: temporarily I have the locker disengaged. I couldn't pull the gear faceplate off, the first two 10mm broke off even with heat...so I took off the sensor plate and removed the 10mm bolt in the fork, pushed the fork towards the PS and it released the locker! Now...here's to hoping it stays released until I get the new unit on Thursday. 🤞🏻🙏🏻
Hey @CPAOvrlnd, did you get the new actuator installed and sorted out?
I R&R'd my rear locker actuator motor today, and now it's working great. It was a bit of a PITA, but that's mostly because I spent close to an hour fiddling with the little springs and magnets under the motor cover. After I got it figured out (the bonehead way), I read the instructions I had already printed out, and they explained an easy way to handle those little parts during install (to use the little copper wires themselves to hold the magnets back and keep the springs compressed). Duh. I don't know why I make things so hard sometimes.
Anyway, I hope you're all sorted out, too. Happy trails.
 
Did either of you guys “shock” the old actuators w/ a 9v battery ( @bicycleagent003 sounds like your magnets lost the epoxy, right?)

@OP - did you search 9v battery / locker?

It’s been yrs, but I had posted the wires to tap with a 9v & a little scrap wire - sometimes they just need to get a good ‘kick in the motor‘ :cool:
 
Funny you should ask, @LINUS. I spent about half of yesterday R&R'ing my locker actuator, and now it's in tip top shape. When I tried to use a 9V, it didn't actuate my actuator. Which concerned me, because I had just spent the better part of a day cleaning it up, lubricating it, and reassembling it. I then realized that I could just install the locker actuator hanging below the axle, by using the lower bolt holes and just putting the top of the actuator there. So, then the actuator is hanging below the axle and the actuator rod is extended in space parallel to the ground and below the pumpkin. The wiring easily reaches that far, so I just turned the magic dial a few times in and out and watched my actuator motor work perfectly. Then I reinstalled it (and retested it with the rear wheels in the air, all is good), and now I'm just letting the Permatex Gear Oil RTV that I used cure until this afternoon before I drive it.

Incidentally, the harness plug to attach to the position sensor (which feels whether the actuator arm is extended) would not make a positive snap onto the position sensor switch. Can I just order that gray plug and pull my wires out of the back of the existing plug and put them in the new one? I'm thinking my first step is to get a new plastic plug and see if it will snap onto my position switch before I replace the switch itself. I don't recall feeling like I monkeyed the plug/switch connection, but these parts are 25+ years old and can be difficult to get off and on.

Thanks.
 
Hey @CPAOvrlnd, did you get the new actuator installed and sorted out?
I R&R'd my rear locker actuator motor today, and now it's working great. It was a bit of a PITA, but that's mostly because I spent close to an hour fiddling with the little springs and magnets under the motor cover. After I got it figured out (the bonehead way), I read the instructions I had already printed out, and they explained an easy way to handle those little parts during install (to use the little copper wires themselves to hold the magnets back and keep the springs compressed). Duh. I don't know why I make things so hard sometimes.
Anyway, I hope you're all sorted out, too. Happy trails.
I didnt! One of the bolts broke so I need to now weld a nut on it and it's been too cold and wet. My truck doesn't fit in my shop garage anymore with the lift and 37s
 
I didnt! One of the bolts broke so I need to now weld a nut on it and it's been too cold and wet. My truck doesn't fit in my shop garage anymore with the lift and 37s
Sorry to hear that @CPAOvrlnd . I found that the 4 10MM bolts which hold the actuator motor in are kind of odd. They have a very shallow head, and at least on my truck they were torqued on like crazy. I started to disfigure one of the bolt heads during removal, then stopped and hit it with some PB blaster and a torch, then wacked on the housing around it a few times with a brass hammer. Then I got a good bite on it with a six sided impact socket and a long ratchet, and I was able to back it out. I replaced it with a bolt I had in the spares box.
Good luck with your repair. I envy your 37s, but not the weather conditions. Happy Trails.
 
^^^ Interesting to know - I bought my RR E-locker as a bare unit w/o the plate, so I just ordered the cover & 4 std bolts from @cruiserdan when he was still in that life stage.

That & all the longer housing studs, yada yadda - did a K292 conversion w/ all the OE parts
I h8funkybolts.
 
Yeah the one bolt is in a precarious spot on top of the axle and I rounded the head on it...tough spot to heat also bc of the electrical for the locker. I'm planning on attacking that and my rear heater bypass this weekend bc the lines are dripping coolant on my cat. Damn salt on the roads here...
 
Update: installed the new actuator today and wow...it locks and unlocks so smooth and quickly now.
IMG_20210307_142737_314.jpg
 
@CPAOvrlnd -
Excellent result. Well done.
What are you going to do with your old one? I'd pay shipping to 93003 if you're just going to trash it.
 

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