- Thread starter
- #21
They only have for FF axels
Factory locker vs aftermarket?
- Thread starter jwbl1982
- Start date
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If you feel shamed on Mud then you need to let your skin thicken up. Have you gone to other automotive forums in the off-road world? Mud is consistently complimented by new comers as the friendliest and most helpful car forum they have ever been on.
If you want accurate answers to your locker question, call Georg and the gang at Valley Hybrids (Cruiser Brothers) in Stockton, CA. They can set you straight.
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Did you call them to see if they can set you up with what you need?
- Thread starter
- #25
Dude..I don’t know. It’s the only kind on their webpage and what they told me in another post
Just get a stand alone harness,a few companies make them just Google it.
You can skip the ECU and all the OEM wiring.
It also allows you to use just the front or the rear locker.
Get the locked axles and ditch the semi float.
Not it the actuator is not working. Point is the only locker you can manually lock and unlock is the OEM E locker.And you can manually lock an elocker with a 9v battery or a few AAs in series.
CD are you going to run a full time transfer case on this build ?
I did the Eaton E lockers from @orangefj45 If you want Eatons he is the one to talk to.
And, yes, they are only available for Full Float rear axle. I am doing a rear axle swap in my 40 to a 60 FF axle. I put the front in last year and and getting the rear done this winter. The lockers are awesome!! They engage and disengage immediately. I had a lunchbox locker in the rear and I did not like it. I like being able to select when I want it on. Just my .02 HTH.
And, yes, they are only available for Full Float rear axle. I am doing a rear axle swap in my 40 to a 60 FF axle. I put the front in last year and and getting the rear done this winter. The lockers are awesome!! They engage and disengage immediately. I had a lunchbox locker in the rear and I did not like it. I like being able to select when I want it on. Just my .02 HTH.
Yep want CDL also.
DivByZero
SILVER Star
There is no actuator. It's a coiled wire around a bit of metal. Unless you've ripped one of the wires clean out of the diff housing and have nothing to clamp on to, you can still get it to work. It's far simpler connecting + and - to a battery than messing around with the OEM lockers.
Gotcha you must be talking a Eaton E- locker then. what happens when power is removed will the Eaton stay locked or does it default back to open ?
I'm pretty sure it will default back to open as soon as power is removed, please enlighten us
A Toyota E locker can manually be locked with out power and will stay locked to get you off the trail !
just remove a few bolts and slide the collar over 
Also I would be interested to see how the Eaton hold up after 25-30 years and hundreds of thousands of miles.
