Factory E-locker (1 Viewer)

[Postoy]

I am in the process of swapping my E-locker from my parts truck over to my DD.

Wondering, for guys who have done this... did you have to clearance the housing for the locker actuator? Also how did you wire it up? I’m guessing the motor should only run for so long in order to engage and disengage the locker. There also seems to be a air line coming from the actuator? Any ideas what that’s for?

Will there be any issue with me putting a non Elocker 3rd into a axle that previously came with the locker? (My parts truck is sold and I’m wanting to make sure the guy who buys it gets a working axle.)

Here is a picture of said locker notch

Thank you very much!

 

[Postoy]

Ok so I’ve found a picture that shows the differences in the housing. Looks like I’m going an axle swap.

 

[TonyP]

For the motor, assuming it's the same as all other Toyota e-lockers, it runs in one direction for lock (turns itself off when reaching lock/unlock) then the opposite for unlock and turns itself off using the internal position limit contacts for both directions and shutoffs. Like so:

For wiring, you can make it easy and buy this:

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH) Sometimes called the TRD Elocker, E Locker or E-Locker.

www.lowrangeoffroad.com

"Airline" you're seeing is more than likely the breather.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

It is possible to mod the non locker axle housing to fit the locker diff. What you'll have to do to the back is exactly the same as what you'll have to do to the front axle housing if you ever want to swap in a front e-locker diff from a 80 series. It's a matter of grinding those notches and drilling and tapping two new holes.

 

[Postoy]

Yeah now that I’ve pulled the third I’m just going to pull the entire axle... I should have looked into this before I pulled the third Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks guys

It is possible to mod the non locker axle housing to fit the locker diff. What you'll have to do to the back is exactly the same as what you'll have to do to the front axle housing if you ever want to swap in a front e-locker diff from a 80 series. It's a matter of grinding those notches and drilling and tapping two new holes.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The airline is simply a breather for the actuator. I'm a fan of the OE locker actuator system if you have the parts. You can see my homebrew harnesses here: Builds - "Jenny" build thread - 1989 BJ74

We've modified many housings for the OE lockers, the diff gasket makes a fantastic template for the cutting/drilling.

 

[Postoy]

The airline is simply a breather for the actuator. I'm a fan of the OE locker actuator system if you have the parts. You can see my homebrew harnesses here: Builds - "Jenny" build thread - 1989 BJ74

We've modified many housings for the OE lockers, the diff gasket makes a fantastic template for the cutting/drilling.

I have the parts truck still... I guess it’s just a matter of chasing the wires? Should I be looking for any sort of ecu for the system?

 

[Postoy]

Edit - checked out your post. I’ll see if I can putt the harness and ecu cleanly. Thanks!!

 

[Postoy]

@cruiseroutfit do you know the location of the factory locker ecu on the lj78?

 

[Tapage]

@cruiseroutfit do you know the location of the factory locker ecu on the lj78?

for reference on my LHD VDJ76 it's on the pass kick panel

 

[Postoy]

@cruiseroutfit

Any chance I could get a copy of your wiring?

I am going this route http://www.gearinstalls.com/PDF1/E-Locker do your own.pdf with my install. I dont really want to pull apart my dash and would like to get this locker up and running soon.

My wiring coming off my axle does not match that of a US/CAD 4runner elocker.

Wires I have coming off mine and what I think is correct wiring is...

White/Black (I assume ground)
Red/blue (I think this goes to the "Locked" light)

Light Green (Not needed?)
Dark Green/Yellow (Not needed?)
Blue (Locked when 12v applied)
Blue/Orange (Unlocked when 12v applied)
White/Black (I assume ground)

If anyone else knows that wires are for what I greatly appreciate the info!

Thanks Guys.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

12voltguy.com sells a switch that a lot of people use. I would go that way if you don’t want to wire in the OEM switch and ECU.

 

[Postoy]

12voltguy.com sells a switch that a lot of people use. I would go that way if you don’t want to wire in the OEM switch and ECU.

Unfortunately that wiring harness won’t work. My larger plug is a male end not female.

 

[Postoy]

These are my plugs

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Those are the harness plugs. I think you unplug those at the elocker if you use his switch.

Also, the wire colors aren’t exactly the same but I think you can cut those plugs off and use this thread to wire in a factory switch and ECU....if you wanted to. Wiring TRD elockers with an FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch

 

[Loober]

Or you can forget all that electric nonsense and go with this manual cable conversion. I've been using it for many years and it works great, never have to worry about the electric sticking, easy install, hardest part is finding a place to mount the handle.

E-Locker | Chilkat Designs

The E-Locker replaces the OEM electric actuator.

www.chilkatdesigns.com

 

[Postoy]

Or you can forget all that electric nonsense and go with this manual cable conversion. I've been using it for many years and it works great, never have to worry about the electric sticking, easy install, hardest part is finding a place to mount the handle.

E-Locker | Chilkat Designs

The E-Locker replaces the OEM electric actuator.

www.chilkatdesigns.com

That’s cool but man! That’s a lot of cash...

 

[Postoy]

I found this. Seems to make sense, might go this route. 12volt guy is a few weeks out to build a harness. It looks and sounds like a solid kit though. If I don’t get it done in the next week or so I might just order it.

 

[Postoy]

Just an FYI, The diagram above works! I ended up repurposing some of my electric shock harness to get switched power to my relays. I mounted the relays by the rear proportioning valve and stole ignition power from the rear wiper motor. Only wire I had to run from the front to the relay was the 1 wire needed to turn on the “locked” light.