fabbing a hard top gutter (1 Viewer)

[rusmannx]

well i've decided to fab part of the gutter. i don't think i can get the corners, but i've a friend who can bend me up some metal to get all of the straight parts done. what material would you guys use? i can get pretty much anything, but i was wondering if ducting tin would work. i can get the tin for free, but any steel i will have to buy.
i'm planning on bed-lining the outside of the hard-top, and i think i'll have it done before i reinstall the roof. my current idea is to have the lining sprayed on up the sides and into the bottom of the new gutter. this should make it a little stiffer (i assume) and make it so it can't rust from the inside (like it is now).

anyway, i'm doing a writeup on this, so you can go check it out if your interested.
http://russ.supernerd.com/rusmannx/offRoad/hardtop.htm
feel free to roam the site.

 

[denis]

cool, I'll have to do something like that sooner or later...
I'd (and probably will) go for stainless, for obvious rust issues, strength, and a terrible BLING BLING

Please do keep us updated about this job !

bye,

 

[nuclearlemon]

i like the idea too since i have an old corrugated top and they use a different dimension top than the other tops, so i can't use the kits unless i modify anyway.

 

[rusmannx]

hey if any of you have a micrometer would you mind finding out the thickness of the gutter?

 

[denis]

It's close to 1 or 1.5mm, but I could go and check if you need...

 

[rusmannx]

just trying to decide on a gauge.

 

[denis]

if you go for tin, you may want something thicker than stock, because otherwise it will bend pretty easy... yet it depends on how close to the trees you'll be driving

 

[brian]

if you're making your own, then i'd go 18-16GA type 304 stainless. weld it up, polish it out then take a d/a sander with a surface prep pad and put a satin finish on all visible area's.
all the plus sides of ss but it won't be all bling bling shiny.

 

[Kief]

Definitely don't skimp if you are going to spend a lot of fab time. Get the same gauge or thicker than stock metal that is a high grade, stainless would be ideal if you have access to the right equipment. The tin has zinc galvanizing which is less than ideal for weldin' not to mention toxic when welded on. It doesn't seem to be that resistant to corrosion either.

 

[rusmannx]

i'll probably be calling around tomorrow for prices.
i might not go stainless, but i think i will get something harder than tin.
any word on oem gauge yet? i'm thinking i'll take a section in to my local machine shop and see what they think.

 

[godzilla]

Why not just get a kit from ccot. Think it would be alot less headache. I have the same problem with my top, I hate to spend $300, but I think till you have somebody make you one, its not going to be the same quality as ccot's and it will probaly cost almost as much.

 

[rusmannx]

its not going to be the same quality as ccot's and it will probaly cost almost as much.

i dissagree.
professional machine shop (friends dad's business) and the same connection for steel (industrial metal work is their trade).
i think between friends i can get the steel for pretty inexpensively and will have people who are in the business doing the fab work. i will probably be standing there taking pictures for the writeup.

 

[denis]

the stock gutter is somewhere between 1.3 and 1.5mm thick. I dunno what "gauge" it makes. what kind of crappy unit is that anyway

 

[rusmannx]

i read somewhere that gauge has been defined as 41.82 lbs per square foot per inch thick.

 

[rusmannx]

it looks like i can get A36 18 gauge for about $1.00/sq-ft.
16 gauge is like $1.51

would the 18 gauge be heavy enough. i think the 16 might be to much.

 

[tres]

use the 16 gadge you wont regreat making the roof too STRONG

 

[toddslater]

rusmanxx,

If your friends dad makes you up a gutter out of 16 gauge 304 stainless as described above by Brian.....I'd be interested in one as well....I am sure others would be too...maybe we could do a batch of them.

 

[rusmannx]

picked up a piece of A36 18gage today to mock up. i think it's going to be pretty decent. i'll talk to my friend about making some 304-16gage stainless and see if he is interested in making a batch.

as of now, i'm only going to be doing the straight pieces and not the corner parts in the back. for that we will either have to fab a jig to bend the corners, or cut the pattern out and weld on the sides. this might be to much of a hassle so i'm considering just glassing over them, or using a lot of that rust converter apoxy stuff.

 

[brian]

i think maybe you should step back and look at what you're doing. i mean you're going to pull your top apart to do the driprail, so far so good. then you're going to make new driprail, still good. but then you're going to half ass the corners, NO good. why not do it right the first time. make the corners as well or buy the set from ccot. you are liable to find the corners arn't as good as you think and it's a hard job welding clean metal to rusty metal only to pull the top apart and cut the corners out at a later date.
i'm not trying to be an ass, but i think that your current plan is foolish. what's easier making the /buying the corners once OR pulling the top apart,TWICE.
i'm a welder/millwright myself and the 150 bucks ccot wants for their metal was much easier than me making a set(and i have all i need for that at work steel, SS or alum i could have used either).

just my two cents

 

[rusmannx]

yeah your right.
i'll find some way to fab the corners i'm sure.
i really want to make a die and bend my own... its a time issue.
between school and such, i don't know what route i'm going to take.
i hate buying things i could build myself, even if they take time.
i like the challenge. i like to learn what i can by experience.