F.5 to 2f swap questions (1 Viewer)

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gorgor

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Feb 12, 2013
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Location
Beverly, MA
Hey all.

So Here's my situation. I have a recently acquired 74 40. It has an F.5 in it. After doing some updates(OP gasket, clutch, mini truck PS) I went to pull the side cover off for a gasket refresh and there's some coolant in there. F@#K!! For now I'm assuming head gasket, but we'll see. I have a pretty nice 2f sitting in my 78 pig project. That project(fairly extensive) has stalled in favor of a dream fj45 project(nightmare) and this 40 that I picked up to have as a fun, stockish driver. The pig is going to be sitting collecting dust unless I sell it and I'm thinking the F.5 might be a fun complete tear down/rebuild to do with my daughters.
I know I need to use the 74 bellhousing to retain the drivers side clutch set up. Do I use the early style flywheel as well or do I have to use the 2f flywheel/clutch? Anything else I should be thinking about here?
Thanks all!
 
It's definitely coolant. Bright green. In little puddles at the bases of all the push rods.
 
67F78C71-2C8C-4AE1-96E1-BD8232884C63.jpeg
 
I put a 2F block into my 74 Pig. You also need the later 2F front engine mounts. I think the 1.5F and 2F flywheels are the same (both are 4 speed).
 
I put a 2F block into my 74 Pig. You also need the later 2F front engine mounts. I think the 1.5F and 2F flywheels are the same (both are 4 speed).
my 74 has the early style flywheel with the 3 finger pressure plate. Will that work on the 2f? I know it probably makes more sense to use the 2f flywheel/clutch that comes out of the pig I'm just thinking over options in case that clutch is tired and I can avoid buying another clutch.
 
my 74 has the early style flywheel with the 3 finger pressure plate. Will that work on the 2f? I know it probably makes more sense to use the 2f flywheel/clutch that comes out of the pig I'm just thinking over options in case that clutch is tired and I can avoid buying another clutch.


You can use the 3 speed clutch/flywheel.

Clutch fork

The bellhousing will depend on whether or not you're using a 4 speed tranny.
 
Ok. After catching my breath and pulling the f.5 out of my 40 I'm considering refreshing the f.5 and leaving the 2f in my project pig alone. I fear if I start poaching things out of the piggy I would be getting farther away from ever doing anything to it and it's got much potential for that. Soooo I started looking into refreshing the f.5. Other than carbon build up on top of the piston it looks really clean inside. I figured do some head work, head gasket and bam! Back in the road. My head casting number is 60051. From what I've been able to gather this is a transitional odd ball? Do any of you know any shops in the Boston/New England area that are familiar with these units and would be trusted to do the work? Are there any MUD vendors I could ship the head to for servicing? Will later 2f heads work on my f.5? Should I look for a 2f and bail on my f.5?
Help!!!:bang:
 
X2 to above, doesn't look like coolant on my screen, but hard to tell for sure.

if there is that much on the lifters, did you drain the oil after it sat, it would have seperated.

any coolant lose?
 
When I drained the oil initially I didn't notice anything unusual. I had done a mini truck power steering install and was running the 40 the turn the wheel and purge the power steering pump. I noticed that the exhaust started blowing a little white and shut her down. Maybe I'm seeing things. In the right light oil looks greenish, but this was glow in the dark bright green. Anyway, the head is off now so there's no turning back.
The question now is getting the head serviced. My f.5 is the later style with the 2f oiling. Will a early 2f head work on my f.5? Refurbished 2f heads seem easier to find. Does anyone know of a machine shop in the Boston area that they would recommend for head work on my existing head?
 
Find the oldest machine shop in Boston. If they can work on the old Chevy straight 6, they can probably do your head.
I put my 1.5F head on a 2F block. It works because of the combustion chamber shape, you may need to change pistols to put a 2F head on a 1.5F block and keep compression ratio normal...
 
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Thanks Pighead.
Machine shops are a dying breed around here(and everywhere else). I have 2 places semi locally to try on Monday, but that’s it. I emailed Mosley Motors as the offer head service on their website, the reality is shipping and service could exceed the cost of a used 2f I’m guessing (if I could find one). I know CruiserParts has “rebuilt” 2f’s for 2500 , but it seems like they get some mixed reviews. FJParts has rebuilds for about the same, but I know nothing of their reputation. Sounds like I need to either get this one somehow refurbished, find a #60051 that’s already done(highly unlikely I’m guessing) or go 2f. :poop:
Some days LC’ giveth, some days they taketh away. 🤬
 
If unable to find machine shop help, consider simply hand-lapping your own valves, replacing the valve stem seals and running it. Probably good for another 100K miles. It's what our Grandfathers did and LandCruisers respond well to that sort of attention.
 
I took my head to the only local machine shop where I am(Beverly, MA north of Boston) and I've got a good feeling. Jim Chabot(the machinist) knew of the oil gallery plug mod before I even brought it up and was also familiar with the Chevy SS valve mod. I think I'm in good hands. In case anyone is in need in the Boston are the shop info is:

Gem Auto Parts
465 Rantoul St.
Beverly, MA
Machine Shop...978-922-2358
Jim Chabot-Machinist

He's a nice old timer. He's been in that shop working solo for 41 years! Guys like that are priceless treasures!!!
 

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