EZ Wiring Harness Recommendation

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Threads
29
Messages
150
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Website
www.freedomjunkie.net
What would be the best option for a stock '72 FJ40 picking from the EZ Wiring Harness:

Mini 12 ($155) -- 12 circuit kit w/ mini fuses and panel

12 Standard ($170) -- 12 fuses, 12 circuit

EZ 21 ($185) -- 18 fuses, 21 circuit

Mini 20 ($165) -- 20 circuit kit w/ mini fuses & panel

About the only additions I'm going to be doing is adding a stereo and a rear heater.
 
I recommend: Don't.

If it is stock, repairing the original harness is easier, cheaper and better.

If you have a GM engine and custom gauges and lights, then using a new harness is a good idea.
 
I recommend: Don't.

If it is stock, repairing the original harness is easier, cheaper and better.

If you have a GM engine and custom gauges and lights, then using a new harness is a good idea.

The lights are original, but the wiring is a hack job...there are loose and broken ends in more than a few places...a couple of shorts, too.
 
If you want to replace it I would recommend the 12 fuse, 12 circuit harness. Plenty of expandability. However Pin_Head is spot on, just repair your OEM harness.

If you decide to replace your harness, I'll give you $25 for it. That will make your new harness only $145.
 
The lights are original, but the wiring is a hack job...there are loose and broken ends in more than a few places...a couple of shorts, too.

It is still easier to fix what you have than replace it with a generic harness. It is unlikely to have a short in the harness unless you have had an electrical fire. Usually the terminal devices (lights, switches, motors) short out and they will still be there, new harness or not.
 
It is still easier to fix what you have than replace it with a generic harness. It is unlikely to have a short in the harness unless you have had an electrical fire. Usually the terminal devices (lights, switches, motors) short out and they will still be there, new harness or not.

Which (new harness vs. repair) would add more value to the vehicle, or does it really matter?
 
If you have a totally OEM vehicle, repairing the OEM harness would keep the vehicles value the most. Unless you provide the next owner with a complete schematic of your 'conversion', you will become known as that darn PO who hacked in a non OEM harness... :D
 
having gone through a complete re-wire, I agree with Pin_Head: repair would have been easier

"...you can always learn...." (my postdoc supervisor) :meh:

my truck already had a secondary fuse panel and tons of add-ons, plus I wanted a dual battery set-up, so a re-wire sounded like the most durable option for the long term
 
Unless you provide the next owner with a complete schematic of your 'conversion', you will become known as that darn PO who hacked in a non OEM harness... :D

my custom wiring booklet is almost complete - brake indicator circuit the last task ;p
 
I'm going to buck the trend and say go for it. Re-wiring is a labor intensive job, but, if done patiently and with attention to detail, is an improvement over the stock wiring. My wiring on my 81 was tired and I was chasing shorts all over. when i took it out and began cutting the stock connectors off (spliced them into the new wiring to help me relabel my schematic) I noticed how corroded the wires were inside, some green with the vert de gris, which is nice on a copper roof, but not in your wiring, as well as some which had gone to black. New wire is more heat resistant and can carry higher amperages (I added a 130 amp alt). It also allowed me to use some of those extra circuits, like A/C, elect cooling fan, power door lock to run my rock lights, connect my charcoal canister, and run my OBA system among other things.
I modeled my harness directly off the original so it looks stock and fits, somewhat, like it. I even went so far as to make disconnects at the firewall like the stock harness. That way I can trace any issues (none in 4 years) easier.
IMHO, If done correctly, rewiring will add value to a Cruiser (not like you'll ever get out of it what you put into it).
Good wiring = peace of mind.

Cheers,
Stump
 
rewiring vs oem fixes

I am in the middle of rewiring w/ezwiring my 72 FJ40 , saw all kind of threads about what not to do.. and we are methodically tracing wires.Didn't just rip old out.
time consuming but hope to have no real problems afterward, we did before , the pos hacked it and mice chewed it.
I am sure I will be asking more questions as we progress.
 
my 1976 have the EZ 12 circuit on it,PO installed and im happy with it,all the wires are label ,more oil resistant..bla bla bla. But on my stock 70 i will keep all the oem if i have an event on change-replace wires...
 
Just finished a total rewiring using the 20 circuit Painless. Easily could have gotten by with the 12 circuit. Took planning and patience (basically had to reconfigure the harness to match what I wanted), but now it is much better than the stock harness and we learned a lot about the vehicle. Everything was well protected through adding asphalt coated wire loom, fiberglass in the hot areas of the engine compartment and weatherproof heatshrink. Also installed all new vintage connectors, both crimping and soldering every joint. At least I know what I've got now. Took time, but wasn't really that difficult. JMHO.
 
IMO, a 12 circuit isn't enough, by the time you add some dome lights, under-dash 12 sockets, idle solenoid circuit, and a few things you forgot about. It's a bummer to under-buy a harness and wish you had a few more circuits.
 
I am finishing up a complete rewire on a 1969 fj40. The old wireing was a combination of original stock, wire nuts, splices, and romex. We ripped everything out and are installing a 21 circuit , 18 fuse complete kit for $185. Every wire is labled along the lenght and ours uses the chevy color code. Yes we have a sbc with a camaro steering column. The process is simple. One wire at a time. Sound connections. fire resistant insulation, very easy to troubleshoot problems on the trail. Wire guage is correct and "extra" circuits can be used for lights, sound systems, winches air pumps etc. If your rig is not showroom stock there is not much point in keeping wireing that is almost 40 years old. Make it safe.
 
I got the EZ-21 since I like to add a lot of this and that electrically, I am also doing a GM style column and aftermarket gauges so it makes sense to rewire. The fuseblock is pretty large, the mini might be an ok option but the fuse rating don't go as high I beleive.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom