extreme water pump failure (1 Viewer)

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After all of these weeks, I have finally gotten all of my parts in... I am replacing the fan with an electric fan set up.... Some guys in the 62 section have done this also with a 3fe engine... Replacing all of the belts and hoses as long as they are off already.... Replacing the battery box also, as the one in there is deteriorated so bad I can crush it with my bare hands. . Hopefully by Sunday I will have it drivable again.... What a flipping ordeal
 
After all of these weeks, I have finally gotten all of my parts in... I am replacing the fan with an electric fan set up.... Some guys in the 62 section have done this also with a 3fe engine... Replacing all of the belts and hoses as long as they are off already.... Replacing the battery box also, as the one in there is deteriorated so bad I can crush it with my bare hands. . Hopefully by Sunday I will have it drivable again.... What a flipping ordeal
could you link the EF in the 62 please?
 
could you link the EF in the 62 please?

do an electric fan search in the 60 section............ I am using the Ford Contour fan set up they talked about... My set up one fan comes on with the engine the other comes on with the A/C. I have them both on relays and double pole switches so I can turn them on and off at will...
 
Finally have her all put back together.... replaced everything with new parts that I took apart. Belts, hoses, water pump, radiator, electric fans... Everything tested out fine while riding around town top speed 50mph... It is 100* out here so the A/C was on full blast during all road tests... Drove it home an 80 mile trip and when I was doing 70mph the truck was running hot... Never over heated, but was running halfway between center and the red line... Wish i had a real gauge with numbers on it.... At 70 mph with that much wind a fan should not matter as no fan produces 70mph winds.... Now to find out why at high speeds (for an 80) it is running hot
 
it did not run hot before the water pump ruined my bank account.... I am planning on going to the car wash and blowing out the condenser, but I do not believe that will help me out.
 
Maybe still air in it? Needs to be completely full for the radiator to be able to use every bit of area (inside) to exchange heat. If only getting hot at speed it is usually a capacity (radiator not big enough, flowing enough, enough air over it, tubes clogged , etc) problem. The engine is making much more heat to work that hard continuously.
 
the rad is new and we flushed the system


Maybe still air in it? Needs to be completely full for the radiator to be able to use every bit of area (inside) to exchange heat. If only getting hot at speed it is usually a capacity (radiator not big enough, flowing enough, enough air over it, tubes clogged , etc) problem. The engine is making much more heat to work that hard continuously.
 
A radiator blow up is much different than a catastrophic water pump failure. Unless your radiator blew up because your water pump blew apart and the rig overheated, I would say no they are not related.

Could heavier fluid have something to do with it? My radiator blew up last week after a bunch of work I did and one of the things was add 5ml to clutch to make it 50ml of 10,000wt oil
 
A radiator blow up is much different than a catastrophic water pump failure. Unless your radiator blew up because your water pump blew apart and the rig overheated, I would say no they are not related.

My radiator blew up because the fan and shroud came in contact with each other, but I was just curious if the new heavier fluid created more force causing the fan blade to flex a bit. I ran it for a couple weeks with 45ml of the 10,000 with no problems, I just added the extra 5ml because it was running a few degrees warmer than before.
 
Finally have her all put back together.... replaced everything with new parts that I took apart. Belts, hoses, water pump, radiator, electric fans... Everything tested out fine while riding around town top speed 50mph... It is 100* out here so the A/C was on full blast during all road tests... Drove it home an 80 mile trip and when I was doing 70mph the truck was running hot... Never over heated, but was running halfway between center and the red line... Wish i had a real gauge with numbers on it.... At 70 mph with that much wind a fan should not matter as no fan produces 70mph winds.... Now to find out why at high speeds (for an 80) it is running hot
Did you park on an incline & burp the system?
 
thee is no way there is air in the system..... The fans are just not doing their job out here in the desert.... I have ordered a fan shroud, fan and clutch assy... I am in the orocess of redoing my fuel lih


I have had a mechanic test it for a blown head gasket....... Another issue i am having is she is not shifting into $ like it shoulf... I am working on
 
My 80 has an entire new cooling system and HG. It runs hotter than it should. I just juiced my blue hub with 60,000 cst fluid. It made a difference, though did not cure my issue totally.

Others have a similar issue. Weird thing is mine just started one day out of the blue.

I think now that 80 series are starting to see really high mileage this could become an issue on 80s that are run in the hot deserts.
 
just for future reference: a yearly AAA membership costs less than your tow for 35 miles, and they cover 100 miles of towing
 
Mine doesn't run hot at all, it's a new radiator, running "red" ... but now I have a scraping kinda sound when its idling from I assume the water pump ? or ? ... it doesn't recycle the water off to the reservoir, and sometimes I've had to add some water , but the new radiator doesn't leak. Last night the check engine light went on and I drove the other 3-4 miles home , figuring the water was low again , so this morning went out to fill the radiator , it was full , but the reservoir was a little low , filled it to half full line and went out to start it , it started, had that scraping sound while idling , but the check engine light doesn't go off. Someone else told me that if there is a pin hole in the water line that it won't recycle , anyway ... I'm perplexed and don't want to just start throwing parts at it .... any ideas ?, especially the scraping sound !
 
Mine doesn't run hot at all, it's a new radiator, running "red" ... but now I have a scraping kinda sound when its idling from I assume the water pump ? or ? ... it doesn't recycle the water off to the reservoir, and sometimes I've had to add some water , but the new radiator doesn't leak. Last night the check engine light went on and I drove the other 3-4 miles home , figuring the water was low again , so this morning went out to fill the radiator , it was full , but the reservoir was a little low , filled it to half full line and went out to start it , it started, had that scraping sound while idling , but the check engine light doesn't go off. Someone else told me that if there is a pin hole in the water line that it won't recycle , anyway ... I'm perplexed and don't want to just start throwing parts at it .... any ideas ?, especially the scraping sound !


Check your idler pulley first. Could be a bad bearing.

If the coolant is not being drawing back into the radiator upon cool down, you have a leak SOMEWHERE.

Check the oil for a milky look, same as radiator. Hopefully not.

Check the exhaust for extended white smoke (not vapor) and smells like hot maple syrup.

With the engine OFF, spin the cooling fan to make sure it's not hitting the shroud and is not loose. The pulley will NOT turn doing this.
 
Mine doesn't run hot at all, it's a new radiator, running "red" ... but now I have a scraping kinda sound when its idling from I assume the water pump ? or ? ... it doesn't recycle the water off to the reservoir, and sometimes I've had to add some water , but the new radiator doesn't leak. Last night the check engine light went on and I drove the other 3-4 miles home , figuring the water was low again , so this morning went out to fill the radiator , it was full , but the reservoir was a little low , filled it to half full line and went out to start it , it started, had that scraping sound while idling , but the check engine light doesn't go off. Someone else told me that if there is a pin hole in the water line that it won't recycle , anyway ... I'm perplexed and don't want to just start throwing parts at it .... any ideas ?, especially the scraping sound !
The coolant level in the overflow bottle will rise and fall with engine temperature. That is a feature of the radiator cap, not the water pump.
Coolant doesn't "recycle" through the reservoir. It is an overflow.

A simple way to verify if your water pump is making noise would be to remove the belts and spin the fan by hand. There should be no lateral play in the pump, and it should spin easily and quietly by hand.
 
Low coolant level does NOT set a Check Engine Code. Read out code. You have a different problem.
 

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