Extending the wheelbase? (1 Viewer)

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May 4, 2010
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Okay... so can someone explain to me (like i am a 10 year old!), the simplest method of extending the wheelbase?
I've read a lot on this forum about using 55, 60 and custom springs, alternative small eye bushes to suit the larger bush springs, cutting-and-swapping the hangers, extending driveshafts and brake lines but i still haven't found the simplest method for my needs.
My 40 is SUA, I don't want to swap the hangers, there is a mob in Oz that sells large to small eye shackles and i'm looking to buy new spring packs and shocks.
I need to keep it simple so that it won't be a PITA to get engineered for a roadworthy.
I guess what i am asking is that if someone can basically give me a shopping list of all the parts i would need and a general run down for extending the wheelbase?
 
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Turn the springs around. Preferably with the 2nd leaf reversed in the pack so that the mil wrap is still at the frame.. You will need to get your driveshafts lengthened. You will need extended (or doubled) brake lines. You will need to relocate/replace your shock mounts. Might as well replace the spring bushings while you are at it unless they are already new.

That is about it.


Mark...
 
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Thanks Mark W... that was quick!:cheers:
I have already flipped and drilled the springs, but now my camber is screwed - amongst other things - and as i need new springs, i thought i'd do it 'properly'.
As I need to get a set of new springs I thought i'd extend the wheelbase while i was at it. So instead of buying a set of new 40 springs and then butchering them... I wanted to know if there is an 'off the shelf' spring that will extend the wheelbase without modifying the springs, and if there is, what else i will need to do.
 

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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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What is the maximum tire diameter you folks can legally operate on the roads over there?


Oh, and is it true that you can no longer operate your vehicle on roads with the top and doors removed?
 
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Legally... 1" over standard i believe, you can get away with 33's without any problems and even 35's... unless you ran into a cop on a bad day!
 

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Legally... 1" over standard i believe, you can get away with 33's without any problems and even 35's... unless you ran into a cop on a bad day!



Is it true that you can no longer operate your vehicle on roads with the top and doors removed?
 
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What is the maximum tire diameter you folks can legally operate on the roads over there?


Oh, and is it true that you can no longer operate your vehicle on roads with the top and doors removed?
Are you meaning just in Vic or in all of Australia...

If its true in All of AUS then ill be VERY sad... BUT from what Ive read and researched myself this past week its ok to drive with roof and doors removed if...
(A) Your car was made from the factory like that /ability to.
(B) Your car was made before 1997. Its when some law about side intrusion was brought in.

Because i just bought my FJ45 LWB this week and im looking forward to a convertible, doorless run this weekend in South Australia.

But do we have someone in AUS who can confirm or deny this?
I really want to know for sure. :confused:
 
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Nah, not true. Mine's a soft top - must have rollover protection- and as for no doors, i believe that the problem is due to the mnirrors being mounted on the doors, I'm not 100% sure though on that one though.
 
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Thanks Mark W... that was quick!:cheers:
I have already flipped and drilled the springs, but now my camber is screwed - amongst other things - and as i need new springs, i thought i'd do it 'properly'.
As I need to get a set of new springs I thought i'd extend the wheelbase while i was at it. So instead of buying a set of new 40 springs and then butchering them... I wanted to know if there is an 'off the shelf' spring that will extend the wheelbase without modifying the springs, and if there is, what else i will need to do.
Sorry... I forgot that part. ;)

Use a little bit longer shackle... right about 4.5 inches. That will set your caster and pinion back they way it was before the spring reversal.
(It is caster that is affected, not camber.)

No reason to do a C&T in a simple mod like this


This really does not "butcher" your springs. You can always turn them back around if you want.

If you want to extend your wb without any fab work this is how to do it.

One other approach is to use FJ55 rear springs at each end with the right bushing mix to make them fit. You will have very shallow shackle angles and you *may* have increased "looseness" on the road because of it (front end issue). It will not be a factor unless you have other flaws in the front end, but if you do, the longer, shallow shackle angle will allow any slop to exaggerate the effect on the vehicle.

You will have to play around with shackle length yourself for the '55 springs up front, I do not remember right now what size will set your caster back to spec with these springs.


Mark...
 
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I'm limited to 2" extended shackles in order to keep it legal, which i think it pretty much has already. I think i'll have to have another read through Twisty's build - i think he did something similar.
 
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Nah, not true. Mine's a soft top - must have rollover protection- and as for no doors, i believe that the problem is due to the mirrors being mounted on the doors, I'm not 100% sure though on that one though.
So your saying if the mirrors are mounted on the body just before the doors (like on mine) then door removal is OK? :confused:

And for Roll over protection, i have a roll bar on the back of the custom tray on the FJ45. :wrench:

Ill be posting pics of mine tonight when i pick mine up in an hours time. (This has been the longest day EVER!... i hardly slept last night too.)
 
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So your saying if the mirrors are mounted on the body just before the doors (like on mine) then door removal is OK? :confused:

And for Roll over protection, i have a roll bar on the back of the custom tray on the FJ45. :wrench:

Ill be posting pics of mine tonight when i pick mine up in an hours time. (This has been the longest day EVER!... i hardly slept last night too.)
So to break it down:

No roof = rollbar needed
No doors = mirrors to be mounted on the body - not the doors. (not 1005 on this one though.)
 
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Not 4.5 inch extension. 4.5 length. Only a little bit longer than OEM.


Mark...
Brilliant!
I have a feeling that my shackles are longer than standard (PO home made jobbie), and i'm still having caster issues - does that make sense or have i done something wrong somewhere along the lines?

You will need to relocate/replace your shock mounts
On that topic... what is the recommended way of solving the shock mount issue? As mine sits, the rear shocks are on a shocking angle! (pun intended!)
 
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The longer the front shackels are, the more unstable will be at higher speeds, the Caster Angle will go more negitive. High speed shopping cart, if you know what I mean
 
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The more verticle the rear shocks are the firmer the ride will be, so if the shocks are a little soft move the tops outboard. If there too firm move them inward. My 40 has two different mounting points on the rear cross bar. When I crawl the rocks i move them outboard and turn the adjustables Rancho 9000s down, this gives me more travel and quick movement when you need it.
 
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So to break it down:

No roof = rollbar needed
No doors = mirrors to be mounted on the body - not the doors. (not 1005 on this one though.)
SO... Looking at this pic attached... It meets both those criteria?

Note Rollbar on the back and the body mounted mirrors. I think it gets a Tick in both Boxes right?
DSC02789xx.jpg
 

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