Any ideas on what is causing this wear pattern? Seems every other lug is significantly more worn than the other (dark ones). Tires usually at 35psi, slinky stage 1 suspension with new oem bushings about 2 years ago. This is the drivers rear tire, but the others show similar patterns.
Explain this Tire Wear
- Thread starter motormayhem
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Could it be the design of the tire. Some of the lugs could be harder to increase overall tire life and other lugs could be softer for grip.
Just a thought.
Either that or over inflation, what psi do you run on the pavement?
Just a thought.
Either that or over inflation, what psi do you run on the pavement?
Seems logical to determine which end of the truck is doing this. I’d estimate that it’s the front. This assumes you rotate. Based on these assumptions, something is loose in the front end.
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How are you rotating them? This is how I rotated mine this morning after doing a brake job.
I used the middle diagram to rotate mine AWD/Non-Directional tires.
I used the middle diagram to rotate mine AWD/Non-Directional tires.
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It’s been probably 10-15k since I rotated them. But this pattern shows up on the front and rear tires. Tires still have wheel weights on them. Lugs that are black probably have 1-2 32nds of wear more than the others.
I’ve been running them at 35psi on the street, but the tires are rated for 80psi.
I’ve been running them at 35psi on the street, but the tires are rated for 80psi.
That type of wear is called cupping, and it occurs when the tire "tramps", or moves up and down while rotating. One common cause is imbalance, but it can also be the result of worn shocks or loose suspension components.
Start with a wheel/tire balance, but also check the shocks with a bounce test. You should be able to push down on the front bumper and have the Cruiser bounce back only once. If it continues moving after the initial rebound, the shocks are worn. Do the same thing to the rear.
Start with a wheel/tire balance, but also check the shocks with a bounce test. You should be able to push down on the front bumper and have the Cruiser bounce back only once. If it continues moving after the initial rebound, the shocks are worn. Do the same thing to the rear.
This. it's not some magic tire design lol
This.
I had this problem on my STT Pro mud terrains. My cupping was my own fault from not rotating the tires at a regular interval. Rotating them after they are cupped can actually make the problem worse. Mine were so bad it felt and sounded like I was driving on cobblestone streets at low speed.
I have ST Maxx now (same as OP) and rotate them every 5K miles.
What’s your caster and how much toe are you running.
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Need to rotate them more often for sure.
I’ve never rotated any of my tires on any of my 80s. It’s an all wheel drive truck so they should wear evenly. And that has been my experience.
The rear isnt a steer axle. This doesn't make sense
The cupping on those tires in my opinion is excessive toe. Inducing excessive toe on this forum as a good thing is widely advised and I don’t subscribe to it.
I set my caster to factory specs which is 2-4* and adjust toe as close as I can to factory specs which is 0.
Make sure your axle and tie rod ends are in good shape and your good to go.
I set my caster to factory specs which is 2-4* and adjust toe as close as I can to factory specs which is 0.
Make sure your axle and tie rod ends are in good shape and your good to go.
If all you do is drive highway and particularly city driving they will wear more like that because if scuffing on the concrete.
On gravel or dirt, they are less likely to cup.
Different brands and tread types wear differently.
In my experience, Firestone tires were more prone to this based on compounds.
A square or flat tread is more prone to it because when the wheels tilt during steering they wear in different ways somewhat due to the Ackerman effect.
Rounded shoulder treads do this less.
Now I feel better about not rotating mine.
What do you mean by "excessive" toe? There is a specified range for toe, and the vehicle is either set up within that range, or out of that range. It could be toed in excessively, or toed out excessively.
Anyway, incorrect toe causes the tire to move at an angle down the roadway, leading to scuffing. This scuffing appears as a feathered, or sawtooth pattern, not the cupping that the OP shows on his tires.
Toyotas spec for toe is 0, no toe, non at all. All I see on here is people with light steering feel being told to add toe.
I tape measure my toe and error on the safe side and do have very little toe.
I tape measure my toe and error on the safe side and do have very little toe.
