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Expedition suspension Recommendations??

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by jvoelcker, Mar 3, 2007.

  1. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    Hi,

    Just wondering what the recommendations are for suspension setup for a loaded 100 (off around Morocco for 5 weeks in April - leaving on the 31st March).

    I'm picking up a 2000 HDJ100 next week and will be kitting it out with:

    Permanent Fixtures:
    Sahara bar at front with 12K Milemarker hydraulic winch
    ARB locker on front
    Sliders (possibly)
    182l Aux tank under the boot
    Kaymar rear carrier with 1 spare on it (see below).
    Roof Rack
    Compressor + tank
    3rd Battery

    For trips:
    Extra spare on Kaymar
    Roof tent
    50L fridge and storage system in boot
    50L water tank over behind 2nd row seats
    2 Adults
    3 Children
    + a stack of nappies and other kit.

    I'm keen to get a setup commonly used in Aus, but don't know if I will be able to get the components sent over in time so need to consider the alternatives.

    I'm aiming for around a 2.5" lift, need the the suspension to be able to handle the heavy weight, but also be OK to drive when in normal trim(i.e. no water tank, fridge, roof tent, only one spare on the Kaymar e.t.c.

    The trip will be around 5000 miles, 90% tarmac, the other 10% being split between rocky mountain tracks and stoney/sandy desert roads including some work in the dunes.

    Looking at the Slee site and here, I've come up with the following:

    Front:
    Slee Diff Drop Kit
    OME Torsion Bars
    OME N133

    Rear:
    OME 866 springs
    N74L shocks

    I may even be tempted to get two sets of springs, one for when fully loaded and one for day to day use (OME 865s?).

    Does this sound sensible?

    Any other suggestions?
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2007
  2. dclee

    dclee

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    Milemarker electric or hydraulic? Hopefully the latter.

    Have you given any thought to airbag helpers for the rear coils? You then use a coil that wouldn't be too bad unladen, and when really loading the truck up you just put some air in the bags to handle to extra weight.

    Obviously, this adds some risk of a punctured bag (not really an issue if you use a quality bag and maintain it), but you'll have to decide how important the laden/unladen weight thing is to you.

    edit: I'm not going to Morocco, but my own 100 will be set up for long distance touring/expedition-type work, but also must serve as a daily driver for my wife (read, no super tall lift or super stiff suspension), so I am most likely going the route of 865s + airbags.
     
  3. spressomon

    spressomon glutton Moderator

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    The 865's will probably be too soft and will more than likely sag under your base rig weight. FYI: The 865's were fine until I added my Slee rear bumper. 866's should be about right for non-expedition use when you are not loaded with fuel, water and bodies; however I think 863's or? are going to be better suited for your laden trips. It takes about 30-minutes total to swap springs once you've done it once or twice...air tools trim to less than 30-minutes ;) .

    I would opt for the sliders...more ground clearance and peace of mind just in case. Plus if you get tube style sliders it will provide you with a nice perch for a Hi-Lift jack (you might want to add this to your equipment list) with the special adapter (sorry...can't remember the name of the Hi-Lift slider adapter). And a compressor with adequate output to air up tires...
     
  4. siglo

    siglo

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    I have similar weight as you have in the rear except that the ARB bar is heavier with 2 spares.. I've gone through most springs OME offered for my LC during the course of my mods (860, 866, 864 and now 868).. I would recommend the 864 because that is what I had with my kaymar rear bar and single tire.. it will handle the weight just fine (400KG constant extra weight) and provide the lift you are aiming for.. When I installed the ARB rear bumper with dual tires the 864 sagged when loaded.. so now I have the 868 (600KG constant extra weight).. When not fully loaded it is quite stiffer than the 864..

    calculate the weight of all the stuff you're installing in the back.. if you come close to 400KGs go with the 864..

    good luck :)
     
  5. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    Hydraulic naturally.

    I had considered them, but we are likely to be doing one or two loaded trips a year and personally I would prefer to go thr route is having two sets of springs - it doesn't add that long to the vehicle prep time to put them on.
     
  6. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    OK, so better off with 866 for day to day use and then 863s for trips.

    I have done suspension upgrades on several 80, so yes should be able to do it in the under 30mins ;).

    Personally can't stand high lift jacks, trapped my fingers in them far too many times in my youth on the farm to want to go near them. I'm going down the air jack route which should cover all my requiremments.

    And yes, will have an on board compressor and tank for it. Would like to go the York route, but don't know if it is possible to fit one on an 1HD-FTE.
     
  7. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    Thanks, that's really useful to know, very similar setups.

    I ahve been looking at the fuel/water storage issue and had completely forgotten about the combo tanks - which one have you got and how are you getting on with it?
     
  8. siglo

    siglo

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    I have the Long Ranger combo tank (55ltr water 122ltr fuel).. I've had it for about 1.5 years and it's been great.. only flaw is the gauge won't be 100% accurate.. provided you bend the stock sender unit correctly, the fuel gauge will stay at full for several kilometers then starts to show actual or very close to actual level.. I've made several attempts to fix this but was told by long ranger it is normal.. my last attempt (about a month ago) completely messed up my gauge.. :doh:
    If you have the Toyota trip computer, the range for the sub tank will not be accurate and it can't be fixed according to Long Ranger..

    This is an old thread I started that shows the tank and kaymar bumper
     
  9. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    Just been reading a thread on another list about the sender units for the 182l aux tanks - apparently LongRanger supply either an extension or replacement to the arm for the float to compensate for the bigger tank.
     
  10. siglo

    siglo

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    Thanks for the tip :)
    I've just emailed them asking if they have one for the combo tank.
     
  11. spressomon

    spressomon glutton Moderator

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    FYI: The 866's progressive/softer portion collapsed with my 100 with AO drawers (w/recovery gear, CO2 tank, tools, etc.) + Slee rear bumper with tire carrier. You didn't mention a rear drawer unit so I think you'll be just fine...as long as you don't fill the extra fuel tank up for non-expedition driving.
     
  12. ShottsUZJ100

    ShottsUZJ100

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    I would highly suggest 4.88 gears. Cruiser99 (Doron) probably had the 1st outfitted 100 in the US. With the weight, the 315's, extra tank, and the gear he suffered until the gearset option was available. He's happy now! :)
     
  13. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    Thanks guys for responding.....

    Sigolo - I have asked on another list about the fuel guage - apparently the instructions say the sender arm should be cut and extended, but I don't know by how much, but will try to find out.

    I guess you could open up your main and aux tanks and take measurements from the top of the sender to the bottom of the tank and then extend the sender accordingly.

    Spressomon - I will be building a storage system (most likely rack system for boxes as opposed to drawers), but this will come out for daily driving. For the trip I would expect the boot to be full up to about 6" above the top of the 2nd row of seats.

    I will however want to use the aux tank day to day, so what is the next step up on the springs?

    ShottsUZJ100 - I'm only going to fit 285x75xR16 on initially, although might move to 255x85x16 if doing a lot of desert driving so the gearing may not be an issue.

    To be honest, never through through the logic of chaging the gear ratios, but will be upping the power on the diesel engine to compensate for the weight (chip, bigger intercooler and better 3" exhaust).
     
  14. spressomon

    spressomon glutton Moderator

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    I used 863's for about a year...but thought they were too soft off-road. I ended up with a custom set from Christo/Darren that, although are slightly stiff for city use, are really nice for highway, on-trail/off-road use. I would advise shopping for a used set of 863's and try them out. Unfortunately with everyone's personal variables you'll have to try a couple springs to get what you want.

    Is your HDJ100 a manual trans? If so...a manual will go along way in mitigating the oversize tire/reduced gear/acceleration issue. If it's an auto you'll be using that shift lever when climbing/accelerating especially with a load; that's what drove me nuts (along with the higher effective low range) with my automatic and 285R75/16's (we live at 5,000 feet and travel mostly up ;) )...

    In a perfect world unconstrained by $$$ the 315R75/16" + 4.88 is da bomb as Shotts said.
     
  15. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    I'm actually after Darren's setup, my requirements are pretty similar of the guys in Aus and it appears to provide a good compromise.

    Just waiting for Darren to get back to me ;)

    Unfortunately LCs are few and far between over here and even fewer modded 100s, I only know of one or two in the UK and I run an owners club!

    The HDJ100 will be an auto, but you do get good torque from the diesel which helps with the climbing/accelerating.

    To help further I'm going to work on the engine to bring to around 275bhp and 530Nm and also fit the Aus Extreme valve body kit that will help the auto's shifting.

    After all that if I still need to do something with the gearing I will!
     
  16. cary

    cary

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    I didn't read through all the posts, but two questions:

    1) Why a front locker and no rear?
    2) Make sure you replace the CV boots when you do the lift, as they seem to fail shortly after.
     
  17. jvoelcker

    jvoelcker

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    We get a factory one in the rear as standard.

    Will do.
     
  18. ats4x4dotcom

    ats4x4dotcom

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    The cv boots are fine normally, with the diff drop, and last as long as a standard height vehicle from our findings without an issue.

    OME shocks certainly arent the choice for touring, they are well marketed, but dont offer the ride control you get from monotube shock absorbers without becoming unreliable, due to the valving pressures involved to control a large vehicle.

    If there was a set up which worked better than what we do now, regardless of cost, we would be using it, having said that, we are working on a Fox coil over front remote canister set up, and long travel rear, but we are weary of the fact only small improvements can be made for large dfollar factor costs, and allot oif time and effort from where we already are. The Fox kit will hopefully allow fitment of larger tyres, and more custom parts as part of the total package.
     
  19. spressomon

    spressomon glutton Moderator

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  20. ats4x4dotcom

    ats4x4dotcom

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    yes,

    but you bought a toyota, and not an american moter vehicle, because you realise value for money vs up front cost, and this should also apply to your suspension.

    We have some good twin tube shocks, and everyones favorite Land Cruiser workshop will have them too soon hopefully:cool: