Exhaust manifold - what am i getting into

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by whaler, May 18, 2018.

  1. whaler

    whaler

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    97 80, 202k miles. Just had the entire exhaust system from manifolds back replaced last weekend.

    The shop i took it to (never had work done there, but they were recommended and had decent reviews) does a lot of exhaust work. Anyway, they broke the rear manifolds front stud at the y pipe connector. From what i could tell, it broke inside the threads, super.

    They said, its ok we double gasketed it and put some muffler cement to prevent leaks, well i made it 15 miles before it leaked.

    Its not obnoxious but i definitely notice it and the cruiser feels weak accelerating as a result.

    Because I like to waste money I ordered up some dorman manifolds for 95-97 80 series on rock auto, along with new OEM studs and nuts. Manifolds came with y pipe hardware and gaskets.

    My question is: is this is a simple project? I pulled the manifold heat shields off and hit the studs and nuts with penetrant yesterday. I realize worst case scenario, a stud breaks in the head.

    Best technique for getting the rear manifold studs out? Go from underneath?

    Would you guys take it to a shop to have them sort it out? There seems to not be a lot of write-ups about this (likely because its a simple job).

    Thanks.
     
  2. Jgrauman

    Jgrauman

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    I'd have the shop fix the problem they created. Removing a broken stud is a pain, but you are going to create a lot more pain trying to remove the manifold from the head in my opinion.
     
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  3. whaler

    whaler

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    They will have to remove the rear monifold anyway to get the stud out no?

    If i could drill it and ez out the stud i would but i cant get in there without removing the manifold.
     
  4. Jgrauman

    Jgrauman

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    I just put a new y pipe on mine last weekend. I have a lift though so I could get it off the ground. All four of those studs are much easier to get to from the bottom. I replaced mine with bolts. Just depends on how much stud is sticking out, would have to remove the y pipe and possibly weld on a nut to the stud and remove.
     
  5. whaler

    whaler

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    Right, the shop put the truck on the lift to do all the work.

    My question really is; should i tackle taking the manifolds off and replacing them. I am worried about the studs shearing off in the head. Any tips or techniques before i start this?
     
  6. Wompom

    Wompom

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    Pulling the manifold is easy peasy. Lots of pre soak with pb blaster and use a good breaker bar or impact. I found if I slightly tightened the nuts with a breaker then loosened they popped right off. Some will come out as the whole stud some will just have the nut come off.
    That being said they screwed it up so I'd take them the manifold and have em install it. If they messed that up and didn't fix it properly though I'd do it yourself .
     
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  7. whaler

    whaler

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    Cool, yeah I mean, they seemed competant but they already screwed up once and didnt fix it properly ( take the manifold off and extract the stud you just broke).

    Whats the best method for getting the rear bolts off? Go from under with a breaker?
     
  8. whaler

    whaler

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    Rear bolts as in, the most rearward manifold studs by the egr. Thanks guys.
     
  9. LINUS

    LINUS Waiting for the Great Pumpkin

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    Where is the turbo located you mention in your sig?

    Is that why this is an issue? -Because to me the simple answer is to soak the hardware in PB Blaster for a couple days, then heat the hardware with a MAP gas torch (since oxy/ace torches aren’t in the average residential garage).
     
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  10. whaler

    whaler

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    Tiny turbos in each of my spark plugs, +10HP.

    It really isn't an issue, Im mostly procrastinating/afraid to go back to the shop to have them work on it more. If they break a stud in the head I will not have any patience with them like I did when they broke the 1 stud then went ahead and did a half-a** job rectifying it. I understand stuff breaks but not making it right is another issue entirely.

    Im going to get some ATF/Acetone on each of the nuts later. Without a lift I'm planning to go in from underneath for the tough to reach rear manifold stud nuts.

    I mainly started this topic because I haven't seen any other procedures for removing stubborn exhaust manifold, likely, like i said earlier, because its a pretty standard, straightforward job.
     
  11. 84shortyota

    84shortyota

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    I got to all the manifold studs from up top. I cant remember the combination of extensions/swivels i used, but its not as bad as you think.
     
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  12. Dave 2000

    Dave 2000 Not all Land Rovers are useless! SILVER Star

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    Whilst I agree about going back, you have to cut them some slack. I would go back to the shop and explain you recognise it is a pain to get the stud out but, would they be prepared to fit your two new manifolds for a sensible price?

    Regards

    Dave
     
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  13. ZackR

    ZackR

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    I'd give the shop a chance to correct the issue before tackling it yourself. Sounds like they tried to take the easy way out and now have to go back and do it correctly.
     
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  14. LINUS

    LINUS Waiting for the Great Pumpkin

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    Before you take it back to let them rework it, who addressed the broken stud first?

    -Did they say something upfront?

    -Or did you notice the issue, then they explained their band-aid fix?

    If they didn’t say anything first, I wouldn’t even consider letting them try again.
     
  15. Jgrauman

    Jgrauman

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    I wouldn't have them put on new manifolds, just extract the broken stud and do the job correctly. although I wouldn't have accepted the job they did in the first place. That's a field repair at best and a poor one, not a newly installed exhaust
     
  16. whaler

    whaler

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    So basically, I dropped the truck at 9am and they said call us at noon. I did, said call back in a few hrs, i called at 4 (didnt want to seem annoying), and they basically hadnt even put it on the lift. Took them till 7:30pm to finish.

    They were busy, I get it. The owner was upfront about the issue (i believe his son was doing the work and probably used an impact set way too high on the corroded y pipe stud.) Real nice guy but I cant have the cruiser there all day again for a manifold change that i (think???) i can handle myself.

    Just to be clear, the only thing broke was 1 of the rear manifolds y pipe studs. It causes the leak. I have new manifolds, gaskets, all studs and nuts.

    I think im going to give it a shot. Im going to spray penetrant tonight and let it sit on each stud/nut for the manifold to head. Then ill try some MAPP gas and some elbow grease on them. Anyone think this is a bad idea please stop me.
     
  17. Dave 2000

    Dave 2000 Not all Land Rovers are useless! SILVER Star

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    Yes if the PO had not gone out and purchased new manifolds, whats the point of the garage removing, sorting the stud and putting it all back, the PO is still standing there with a pair of manifolds.

    There is also another point here, the garage should have pointed out that due to the vehicles age, that the studs may break, and if they did there would be a charge to remove the manifold to repair it.

    Regards

    Dave
     
  18. Marine7

    Marine7

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    I’d go with Linus’s suggestion...... soak the heck out of them with pb blaster then heat them up with MAAP gas (yellow bottle!), use 1/2” drive from underneath, and first try to tighten the nuts about a 16th of a turn (just to get the nut “moving”) then switch to reverse all loosen them up! Make sure you use MAAP gas in yellow bottle, gets MUCH hotter than regular gas! Good luck!
     
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  19. whaler

    whaler

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    Yup, mapp is my friend. Will update after i do the deed tomorrow.
     
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  20. JeepinPete

    JeepinPete

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    I R&R'd my manifolds last year due to the threads on the studs stripping out. The manifold to head bolts were no issue what so ever. Getting to the rear most bolt was not fun getting out or in, but there is just enough room to turn a wrench.

    I remove the old studs using the welded nut trick, three of four loosened right up, the fourth snapped below flush. I used a least a dozen nuts getting that piece out.
     
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