Exhaust manifold gaskets 1986 HJ60 2H engine (1 Viewer)

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goodtwin

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I am gearing up to change out my exhaust manifold gaskets because I have a leak at one or two of them, but before I jump into this job I want to make sure I have all of the parts I need. Do I need a flange gasket for the down pipe and o-rings and lock washers for the two halves of the manifold as well as the 6 manifold gaskets? It does not appear to be leaking in those two spots, but I am concerned I will need to take those apart to get the manifold off.
After taking a look at how it all comes apart, it would appear that I will also need to take it apart at the flange that connects to the down pipe, correct? Or maybe I can just remove the nuts where the manifold connects to the head and lean it out of the way (as long as I release the clamp where the down pipe is connected to the bell housing further down)?

Anyway, I could use some input from somebody that has done this ob before. I've done this on other vehicles, just not an HJ60. I have the all of the FSMs for my cruiser but there was not adequate info to guide me in whether I need more gaskets than just the 6 manifold gaskets.

Let me know what you guys think.
 
Each exhaust and intake port gasket should be replaced (17171 and 17173) and ideally the down pipe gasket assembly (exhaust manifold gasket 17141) should be too. If one gasket could be reused, it might be 17141 but don't count on it.

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Cool. Sounds good. Thanks for the input!
Is anyone familiar with what the part number is on the down pipe/flange "donut" round style gasket?
It's not shown in that diagram, but I know it exists.
 
Slight hi-Jack. Any idea why the Toyota diesel heads are cross flow when the gas engines are not? Something around the casting challenges of a spark plug hole?
 
Slight hi-Jack. Any idea why the Toyota diesel heads are cross flow when the gas engines are not? Something around the casting challenges of a spark plug hole?

One possible reason is that the heat from the exhaust is used to bring the carb and intake manifold up to temperature faster.. the two are bonded together for this reason, certainly the 2F and F even had a flap between the two that was open when cold to make this even faster, then closed when warm to prevent too much heat.
 
One possible reason is that the heat from the exhaust is used to bring the carb and intake manifold up to temperature faster.. the two are bonded together for this reason, certainly the 2F and F even had a flap between the two that was open when cold to make this even faster, then closed when warm to prevent too much heat.

could be. Seems like a funny design criteria but it’s an old design and one born from an industrial purpose so makes more sense. I know that having both intake and exhaust on both sides was coming on older engines both 4 and 6 cyl inline.
 
Cool. Sounds good. Thanks for the input!
Is anyone familiar with what the part number is on the down pipe/flange "donut" round style gasket?
It's not shown in that diagram, but I know it exists.

I think I found it:
17410B is the correct part number for the exhaust pipe to manifold flange.
 
Last edited:
17410B would be a drawing number (PNC) not the part number.
Toyota part numbers typically are ten digits with a dash after the first five digits.
Example: 90301-49003
 

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