Exhaust Manifold brands (not DT)?? (1 Viewer)

[CrackedManifold]

Hello all,

I couldn't find much on manifold brands in the search function so here's my 1st thread;

Getting ready to swap out my driver's side exhaust manifold due to the imfamous crack on my 1st gen Sequoia.

Has anyone had luck with the rockauto brand replacement manifolds?

I'm not interested in DT headers at the moment as I have other mods i'd like to invest in..

Any feedback is appreciated... Thanks

 

[graveling]

I don't see it on rockauto any longer, but I put a dorman on my 2000. It lasted about 3 years until the tick started. I changed it again about 5 years back to JBA shorty's and have not had another problem. I'd consider doing the same unless you plan on getting rid it in the not too distant future. Note too, I bought a OEM gasket and new studs when I replaced it.

 

[FirstGenTundra]

Man just pony up a little more money for headers. This is not a fun job. You might as well get something out of it.

If not, just leave the cracked manifolds until you can affoard headers. It won't hurt anything.

 

[CrackedManifold]

Hey guys thanks for the feedback.

I guess the consensus here is no one cheaps out on headers.

Price isn't too much of an issue, I just ask myself if it's worth beefin' up a motor with almost 260k.

Also, kinda lazy changing the passenger side as well since this is a bear of a job haha (maybe I could get away with replacing just one side with a DT header???)

Anyhow, the manifold leak is unbecoming and will be fixed soon once I decide a brand to go with...

 

[FirstGenTundra]

Hey guys thanks for the feedback.

I guess the consensus here is no one cheaps out on headers.

Price isn't too much of an issue, I just ask myself if it's worth beefin' up a motor with almost 260k.

Also, kinda lazy changing the passenger side as well since this is a bear of a job haha (maybe I could get away with replacing just one side with a DT header???)

Anyhow, the manifold leak is unbecoming and will be fixed soon once I decide a brand to go with...

The 4.7l is known to run forever. 260k miles is nothing. There are members on the Tundra forum with over 500k.

Also, I would do both sides. The passenger side is supposed to be a lot easier.

 

[graveling]

My issue both times was on the passenger side. You have to remove the engine mount, but its not too bad. I was definitely cussing myself the 2nd time I did the job. Lesson learned.

 

[CrackedManifold]

The 4.7l is known to run forever. 260k miles is nothing. There are members on the Tundra forum with over 500k.

Also, I would do both sides. The passenger side is supposed to be a lot easier.

Very true, I forget about the million mile tundra.

BTW I was kidding about only changing one side with a DT. Not kidding about being lazy doing both sides. Them rusty studs scare me....

My issue both times was on the passenger side. You have to remove the engine mount, but its not too bad. I was definitely cussing myself the 2nd time I did the job. Lesson learned.

Did you have to remove the motor mount from the block or you left it attached?

I managed to get the heat shield and 6 out of 8 studs free. They all backed out with the nut. The remaining two are under the motor mount.

I haven't decided what brand manifold to go with yet but assuming I choose a regular manifold, I should be able to sneak it by the front pipe without removing it? The PO welded the whole exhaust together..

 

[graveling]

I removed the motor mount. You can loosen it, jack the engine up a bit and it will come right off. I used one of those torches with the yellow bottle and heated all my nuts/bolts. Turned out like butter. I recall a universal joint with an extension helped with access. Bummer about the welds. I used stainless bolts when I replaced mine. Makes it easy to repair when one section rusts out.

 

[CrackedManifold]

Little update;

Just finished swapping out the drivers side manifold. Not too bad of a job, just time consuming.

Don't roast me too hard but ended up going with a Davico brand manifold. The company is local to me (support local business, right?). Also, there were no reviews on this brand so I figured i'll be the guinea pig (for science, right?).

One concern I had with this brand was the gasket that came with the set. The new gasket is a 2-layer versus 4-layer OEM. Toyota didn't have the gasket in stock so had no choice but to use it. Sprayed a light coat of copper gasket on each side and torqued it down. Seems to be holding fine so far.

In regards to clearance, I didn't have to remove the steering shaft as some mentioned. I was also able to sneak the manifold out with the front pipe still installed (you would have to remove the heat shield first). And if you're lazy enough, the motor mount doesn't necessarily have to be removed to get to the bottom two middle bolts, although it does make access to the studs a lot easier. A shallow 14mm socket & swivel head is small enough to sneak in between the motor mount & manifold.

No performance gains obviously, but the drivers side is quiet now. Just noticed the passenger side manifold has a slight tick but not concerned with it at the moment. If this Davico brand holds up, ill replace the passenger side with the same brand as well.

 

[CrackedManifold]

Pulled the passenger side manifold today. Was surprised to find the flange at the rear collector cracked off.

If/when the new manifolds crack, ill go with headers then.

 

[graveling]

passenger side was were mine cracked both times. While I did go with the JBA header, I noticed no performance gain. Header and performance gain seem like hype in my experience. I've had not issues since the install, so I'm happy.

 

[CrackedManifold]

passenger side was were mine cracked both times. While I did go with the JBA header, I noticed no performance gain. Header and performance gain seem like hype in my experience. I've had not issues since the install, so I'm happy.

I was questioning the "performance gains" of headers as well, which is why I couldn't justify the cost at the moment.

Besides having a clean frame, I'm at a loosing battle with body rot and would rather put the xtra $$$ towards a new rig (hopefully a 100 series) in the future. Then start building it up from there.

For now, this truck will only get the bare minimum/general maintenance repairs.