Exhaust gaskets and hardware? (1 Viewer)

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Huntsville, AL
I had an exhaust leak between the front manifold and left/outer downpipe on my FJ80 so I removed the downpipe and catalytic converter. What a pain in the ass. I managed to trash the captive nut bracket that the cat-to-y-pipe bolts thread into and the rest of the hardware is in pretty sorry shape.

The nuts and manifold studs were smoking after I took them off, and that's without using any heat on them. That can't be good, so I'd like to replace them along with the catalytic converter bolts. Is there a source for the hardware to replace it with OEM stuff? I'd rather not spend $100 on nuts if I don't have to. Does it matter if I put a Felpro gasket on there or will Mr. T beat me in my sleep?
 
I just replaced my cats and Y pipe with the Magnaflow set up a couple of weeks ago. If memory serves me correct, the hardware for the cats was just some simple M10 bolts from the local parts store. I was able to reuse the studs from my manifolds, so can't answer your question there. I am curious about the seal/gasket between the two cats as the one Magnaflow supplied me with is less than sub par it seems.
 
The gasket is some sort of weird wire spring coil thing. At least they were some years ago because they disintegrated.

I can probably reuse the studs, but I worry about breaking them and really being SOL.
 
The gaskets are sh!t no matter how you spin it. Toyota used some janky foil and paper gasket. Somewhere along the way, before I got my cruiser, someone had removed the downpipe and managed to flare the piece going into the manifold. The Toyota gaskets last Me a whopping month at a time before they're charred and useless. So I live with a perpetual exhaust leak...at least for a few more months. That being said, the cat side has the same type of gasket, just different sized. I cut my fasteners off at the cats when I removed my downpipes because there wasn't any geometric shape to them, they were just kinda blob like. I replaced mine with stainless m10 nuts and bolts and lock/flat washers. That part of the exhaust has no issues.
 
Did you use any sort of gasket maker on the gaskets? I was thinking about getting some permatex ultra-copper or something to help out the gasket. I'm afraid with how long it has been leaking the metal might be eroded away or something.

I'm having a hard time finding the part I broke (I think it's called a "retainer, catalytic converter" but can't find any pictures) so I will probably just put some new hardware on it.
 
Ok, dumb question. Every parts store mentions a totally different style for the "right" and "left" manifold-to-pipe gasket. Are they really different? Because the beige one is available everywhere and the green spiral type is special order only.

Surely, surely the two manifolds do not use wildly different gaskets, right?
 
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Cant answer that one specifically but have lots of experience with the gaskets on the 1fz and have not seen that before.
However have seen both of those style gaskets available at my local parts stores (oreilly and autozone mostly)
The green guys were toast in no time, the best were the foily paper style by mfg ROLF i believe. My issues were contributed to the lack of y pipe support bracket coupled with EMS system but went away after installing new studs and nuts at the manifold. HTH
 
I guess I will try the beige one and just see how close it is. I don't get the right vs. left gasket difference though.

It's either get the stuff locally and maybe drive this weekend or order it all online and maybe get going in a week or 2.
 
When i did the 3fe manifold mod on a 2f i built for my 55 i recall getting the green spiral wound style (for both positions) both from toyota and aftermarket later
 
I believe spiral types were in there to begin with, but they completely disintegrated when I took them out. I'd rather not put them back in since apparently they don't work all that well.
 
Cool, from my recent experiences the foil paper with inner metal ring have performed best and have even reused in a pinch.

FWIW. Any type will burn right through and fail if you have any slight leak or mating surface irregularities/misalignments.
 
That's what I'm afraid of. If mine was leaking for years before I got it I don't want the mating surface to be damaged. Fortunately I suspect getting the downpipe back out will be ten times easier that in was the first time. That rust is no joke.
 
I got the Advance Auto gaskets last night. They seem a tad big compared to the exhaust piping that protrudes into the flange area, but are otherwise sane. Still going back and forth on reusing the hardware.

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Well, I got it put back together! I re-used everything I had except for the O2 sensor nuts because one was missing. Everything threaded in that area is on its last leg, but I figured to do it right would involve pulling studs out of things and that's not a can of worms I want to open unless I absolutely have to!
 
I cranked it up and drove it around some. Aside from the smoke billowing from the anti seize burning off, everything seems to be in order. I'm amazed at how freaking quiet the 3FE is when the exhaust is not popping around.

I did cut some corners, so I'm guessing it won't hold forever, but having spent a total of $11 on the repair I am satisfied.
 
Did a y pipe replacement recently and am picking up the leak at the front gaskets already. I’m looking to pick up some graphite replacements, likely from remflex. Can’t find ones for listed for the 80 series. Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of these gaskets?
 
Did a y pipe replacement recently and am picking up the leak at the front gaskets already. I’m looking to pick up some graphite replacements, likely from remflex. Can’t find ones for listed for the 80 series. Does anyone happen to know the dimensions of these gaskets?
Bosal PN 256-282
 

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