Everyday Overdrive (1 Viewer)

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I’ve been having issues with my trans oil overheating... I bought a cooler, but have been putting off the install.

My 62 is my everyday driver, and I have no issues running around town. But as soon as I hit the interstate, 30 minutes in my trans oil light comes on. Clocked 70mph, while doing under 65 on the odometer... I bought the truck with a set of 16” fuel vectors with 32x10.5s (after doing some reading, this is probably one of the main issues).

After having it diagnosed, looks like I’ll be replacing my torque converter... down sizing to 15” steelies (black FJ40 style w/chrome center caps), with BFG AT 30x9.5s - which I really hope don’t look punny after I install my OME medium load kit (which they say is 1.25” - 2”)...

I know this is something discussed quite often with 62s... but if anyone has suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone has pictures of BFG 30x9.5s on their rig, would love to see how that looks.

*also: if anyone is looking for a set of (5) original FJ62 15” wheels, or a set of (4) 16” fuel vectors... let me know.

...smh - $..$..$....

BB75FD92-E630-4436-A2CC-D553D6956E48.jpeg
 
The smaller tires will greatly help the transmission. The tires are going to look small, but it’s cheaper than a transmission.

I think the perfect small tire for these trucks is a 235/85r16. Take a look around, they look great on lifted trucks.
 
I’ve been having issues with my trans oil overheating... I bought a cooler, but have been putting off the install.

What? You’re about to spend money on different wheels and tires in an effort to lower trans temps and you don’t even have a trans cooler on it?

Its like a 30 minute install. Get that on there ASAP and stop driving with the light on.
 
Add the cooler, check the fluid level, and do a flush before doing anything else.

Is the torque converter not locking up? You should feel it lockup and notice the RPMs drop around 52-54mph.

the cooler install is pretty quick/easy.
 
Add the cooler, check the fluid level, and do a flush before doing anything else.

Is the torque converter not locking up? You should feel it lockup and notice the RPMs drop around 52-54mph.

the cooler install is pretty quick/easy.
Yup, sounds like the converter isn’t locking up. A trans cooler and/or smaller tire won’t fix the overheating if that’s the case.
 
The converter is definitely not locking up, that's why we are changing it... and I DO stop driving it when the light comes on.
The transmission is fine, no slippage...

The cost of regearing is out of my budget at the moment... So I'm trying to address everything that I can at once, in order to avoid any future problems (plus I like the look of the chrome cap steelies with skinnier tires).

It's my everyday driver. I will be using it now and again for a few long distance trips, and possibly some light off road driving.

I guess my question is after I flush, install the cooler, change out the converter, and maybe add a temp gauge... can I get away with BFG 31x10.5R15s or should I stick with the 30x9.5R15s?

Going with these wheels:
 
With the trans refreshed and functioning properly plus the insurance of a trans cooler 31s are no problem.

I see you’re in NO so relatively flat. 33s are okay too if the tranny is functioning properly and the truck isn’t being pushed at its limits (towing, heavy load plus mountain passes) and has a cooler. 31s will give you more longevity though.

An H55f is a way better upgrade than regearing. A440s don’t last forever and good ones are getting scarce so start budgeting.
 
With the trans refreshed and functioning properly plus the insurance of a trans cooler 31s are no problem.

I see you’re in NO so relatively flat. 33s are okay too if the tranny is functioning properly and the truck isn’t being pushed at its limits (towing, heavy load plus mountain passes) and has a cooler. 31s will give you more longevity though.

An H55f is a way better upgrade than regearing. A440s don’t last forever and good ones are getting scarce so start budgeting.

I just finished the body restoration a few months back. I’m really trying to keep the guts of the truck as stock as possible (which is hard, I know), so I think I want to keep the H55f conversion out of my playbook if possible.

Fingers crossed that my transmission stays in good shape for a while, because I don’t think any other automatic transmission would work or fit in a 62 besides another A440?
 
I have installed an aux trans cooler and I’m now running 31x10.5 on American racing steelies. Not having any issues on the highway or going up and down the blue ridge mountains where I live. I don’t baby it either, I tend to mash the peddle merging onto highways and leave it mashed until I get to 70mph. Roads around me have little to sometimes no merge lanes, so it’s the best I can do to not get run over 🤷‍♂️

Here’s a pic of mine on 31’s with a 2” OME lift. Squint and imagine blacked out trim and it’s basically your truck lol.

7FDC359E-C16E-4CF1-89D9-39B4401B405E.jpeg
 
I have installed an aux trans cooler and I’m now running 31x10.5 on American racing steelies. Not having any issues on the highway or going up and down the blue ridge mountains where I live. I don’t baby it either, I tend to mash the peddle merging onto highways and leave it mashed until I get to 70mph. Roads around me have little to sometimes no merge lanes, so it’s the best I can do to not get run over 🤷‍♂️

Here’s a pic of mine on 31’s with a 2” OME lift. Squint and imagine blacked out trim and it’s basically your truck lol.

View attachment 2505514

What size rim are you running?
 
What size rim are you running?

Mine are 15" rims. With that said if I were you, I'd stick with the 16" rims. It helps avoid some back space issues. The PO on my truck barely got this rims to fit, when I picked up the truck the clip on wheel weights on the front insides had been lathed down by the tie rods :bang:. I've added wheel spacers to the front to avoid that. Not the greatest solutions, but oh well.

For a 16" I think the BFGoodrich Ko2 in 265/70R16 should be the ticket.
 
I have installed an aux trans cooler and I’m now running 31x10.5 on American racing steelies. Not having any issues on the highway or going up and down the blue ridge mountains where I live. I don’t baby it either, I tend to mash the peddle merging onto highways and leave it mashed until I get to 70mph. Roads around me have little to sometimes no merge lanes, so it’s the best I can do to not get run over 🤷‍♂️

Here’s a pic of mine on 31’s with a 2” OME lift. Squint and imagine blacked out trim and it’s basically your truck lol.

View attachment 2505514

which OME springs are you running? I’m about to pull the trigger on c003f but can’t decide between cs017r and cs004r in the back
 
Not to tell you how to live your life, but I have a 300k+ mile A440 that is working fine on 33x10.5x15 every day of the week. My light comes on about once or twice a year when I'm climbing some big hill somewhere full of gear, but that's within limits for me.. Flush that thing and install a cooler before you do anything, it needs it anyway and it is cheap. See what it does after that and actually get some temp readings with an ir gun if your light comes back on.

Also, what exhaust are you running? I have seen some aftermarket jobs that run the exhaust too close to the trans pan and have benefited from a simple heat shield. I'd work through the options before jumping straight to a torque converter.
 
which OME springs are you running? I’m about to pull the trigger on c003f but can’t decide between cs017r and cs004r in the back
I’m running heavy/heavy, so CS004 front and back. I have since added a ARB front bumper and will be adding a winch when funds allow. Then the back is getting a 4x4labs bumper with tire carrier and jerry can. So planing on a lot of weight. Might be adding add-a-lefts after everything is said and done.
 
Not to tell you how to live your life, but I have a 300k+ mile A440 that is working fine on 33x10.5x15 every day of the week. My light comes on about once or twice a year when I'm climbing some big hill somewhere full of gear, but that's within limits for me.. Flush that thing and install a cooler before you do anything, it needs it anyway and it is cheap. See what it does after that and actually get some temp readings with an ir gun if your light comes back on.

Also, what exhaust are you running? I have seen some aftermarket jobs that run the exhaust too close to the trans pan and have benefited from a simple heat shield. I'd work through the options before jumping straight to a torque converter.

I hear ya. Stock exhaust (which needs to be addressed, because it sounds like an 06’ Altima at the moment)... the converter needs to be replaced, overdrive is gone. I’m hitting 2500 cruising at 60mph.

Mid-summer gulf south heat is brutal when driving on the interstate for a few hours.

I’ve just put so much work into the body restoration, that I want to get everything possible fixed (within reason). Luckily the transmission shop I sublet work out to kind of owes me a favor, so I’m just going to let them knock it everything out.

Lol, thanks for the input... seems like a few other “member”s were being a bit pushy, just was asking for a little advise - and it is much appreciated.
 
Mine are 15" rims. With that said if I were you, I'd stick with the 16" rims. It helps avoid some back space issues. The PO on my truck barely got this rims to fit, when I picked up the truck the clip on wheel weights on the front insides had been lathed down by the tie rods :bang:. I've added wheel spacers to the front to avoid that. Not the greatest solutions, but oh well.

For a 16" I think the BFGoodrich Ko2 in 265/70R16 should be the ticket.

I love the steel wheels with the chrome center caps, FJ40 style... the ones I’m getting are 15s, they say no bigger than 31x10.5... you think I’m going to run into a problem when I go to mount?
 
I love the steel wheels with the chrome center caps, FJ40 style... the ones I’m getting are 15s, they say no bigger than 31x10.5... you think I’m going to run into a problem when I go to mount?
Search around and try to find out what the backspace on them is. I’m pretty sure that you need less than 3.5” of backspace. 3.5” will work but they’re close and you can’t have clip on wheel weights in the inside. That being said lots of people run 1/4” wheel spacers shims. I have 1.5” gun centric wheel spacers on my FJ62. I’m not going rock crawling and doubt they’ll ever be an issue.
 

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