Ever seen this happen? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 24, 2012
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Location
Memphis, TN
I have no clue what's going on. I got back to the airport last night after a 4 day trip and it cranked right up. Drove it home. Then was heading back out maybe an hour later and it does what's pictured in the video. The PO had an aftermarket alarm put on so maybe it could be a kill switch? After you loose all electrical power if you shake the battery it sets the alarm off and then the electrical appears to be reset. But when you try and crank it, boom, nothing.


Any idea what might be wrong?
 
That's totally dead. I was thinking starter but there's no lights. Fuse-able link? 50 AMP fuse in engine bay? Hopefully more educated members will be along shortly. Electrical gremlins can be frustrating, especially when you didn't create them!
 
The main negative cable to the battery perhaps? Shaking the battery could mean a physical connection issue perhaps
 
When you say battery are you talking about the alarm fob battery or your truck battery? Either way, it sounds like you have a loose connection or faulty battery.
 
When you say battery are you talking about the alarm fob battery or your truck battery? Either way, it sounds like you have a loose connection or faulty battery.
The actual car battery. Both + and - connections seemed to be tight. I also have 0 electrical knowledge.
 
that does seem like a battery problem.......you could try cleaning both terminals, and if you have a meter check and make sure its actually at 12V ....maybe the battery is going out on you?
 
My battery had a "bad" terminal and did exactly this. Even though the terminal was on tight, some sort of surface corrosion was preventing a good enough connection to crank the engine.

If you really want to test, have someone place multimeter leads on the battery posts and then the terminals when cranking. My guess, the battery will stay at ~12.6 volts but the terminal voltage will drop to less than 2 volts.
 
Seems like a poor connection, but then again it could be a number of things. I'd check your connections and your fusible link first.
 
I should really pay more attention when I do things, went back out with the voltmeter to check the battery. Got 4.2 volts and then noticed the positive connection wasn't on securely. Tighten it down on the post and got 12 bolt and some change. Car fired right up. Thanks for the help guys
 
Ive done the same thing ran through everything and replaced the battery just to find the ground on the fender was loose.
 

Trying to replace a faulty o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) and after getting the proper o2 sensor I got under the car and found this. Guessing the PO mechanic messed something up....any ideas as to what to do?

The shroud around the catalytic converter also said Magnaflo so I'm guessing that was aftermarket
 
Looks like when they did the "new" exhaust with the new cat, instead of finding a flange that fit the O2 sensor they just welded the O2 sensor to the pipe. Looks like you will be finding a place to cut that out and do it right....


Trying to replace a faulty o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) and after getting the proper o2 sensor I got under the car and found this. Guessing the PO mechanic messed something up....any ideas as to what to do?

The shroud around the catalytic converter also said Magnaflo so I'm guessing that was aftermarket
 
Looking at your photo i see wrench flats on that O2 sensor, so you might try putting a wrench on it and give it a turn. It looks like the type of sensor that uses a spark plug crush gasket below the wrench flats to seal it to the pipe. Lets hope that the PO was smart enough to of put some never seize on the threads. I'd spray some power blast on it first, before you try wrenching on it. That is more then likely a Bosch aftermarket O2 sensor, so you might try taking it to Auto Zone, to see if they can help you find a replacement.
 
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Saw some rust coming from under the roof rack so I took the 2 screws out and lifted it up to reveal this....on a scale of 1 to 10 how bad is this?
Anyone ever gotten a quote on how much it is to patch and paint the old screw holes?
 
1.5-2

Saw some rust coming from under the roof rack so I took the 2 screws out and lifted it up to reveal this....on a scale of 1 to 10 how bad is this?
Anyone ever gotten a quote on how much it is to patch and paint the old screw holes?
 
I had the same looking holes on my "rust free" LX450 years back. Those look fine to me as well. I cleaned up the area where the rack feet sat, cleaned up the holes, then bought stainless screws and washers, and non-acidic silicone and sealed them up before switching to a Thule roof rack.
 
I had the same looking holes on my "rust free" LX450 years back. Those look fine to me as well. I cleaned up the area where the rack feet sat, cleaned up the holes, then bought stainless screws and washers, and non-acidic silicone and sealed them up before switching to a Thule roof rack.

I have been researching how to plug the holes, would you say the screw method is less likely to leak versus the plastic plug method I have seen? I will eventually get the holes filled and painted, and hopefully that's sooner rather than later
 

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