Entire front axle removal - how much more work than a front axle rebuild? (1 Viewer)

[math]

Some of you may recall our plight, working in a storage unit and not having enough space to get both birfs out at the same time. We took a good look at it and realized that the front axle, while mechanically solid, is looking a little bit dingy. If we remove the axle entirely, we have all the room in the world to work, and we could sand and paint it, as well as do our front axle rebuild. For extra fun, we could also easily re-seal our oil pans, because FIPG isn't exactly expensive. I have the FSM but I wanted to know your opinions. We have good tools and good patience, but I have no faith in our ability to do this quickly and without weird problems. Plus, we can make a huge mess because the guy only has a 25 dollar deposit (this is a joke, for the humor impaired).


So how much more work is it to remove it entirely so we can sand it and give it a fresh coat of pant, and hopefully stave off some rust? With it off, how tempting will it be to shove some mog axles in there?

 

[SmokingRocks]

Not much......


Panhard, brake lines, tie rod steering link, drive shaft and shocks. 12 more bolts you have to loosen and remove

 

[NLXTACY]

Easy. Remove lower control arm bolt at the frame, remove front driveshaft, remove the shocks (or at least the bottom), undo brake hose at the T, remove springs, remove tie rods, remove steering stabilizer and then just roll the axle out...assuming the wheels are still on.

 

[math]

Easy. Remove lower control arm bolt at the frame, remove front driveshaft, remove the shocks (or at least the bottom), undo brake hose at the T, remove springs, remove tie rods, remove steering stabilizer and then just roll the axle out...assuming the wheels are still on.

Would I need to bleed the brakes afterward? Could I just pull the calipers off and leave them on the truck when I take the axle off so the brake lines don't need to be undone? Forgive my ignorance and thanks to all who replied.

 

[mod5csi]

You would have to bleed the brakes. Unless you left the calipers on the truck like you mentioned. But that would mean leaving all the brake lines dangling under the truck. Best disconnect the T as suggested and bleed the brakes after.

You're also 'supposed' to replace the control arm nuts and bolts if you remove them. About $30 worth of hardware for all 6 sets, I think it was. One of the parts guys could tell you for sure. Follow the FSM for removal and install. Axle side is different than frame side. You could also just use some loctite I suppose, recheck the torque after a few miles.

@NLXTACY mentioned only removing the frame side. Good idea, less hardware to replace. And you can refinish the radius arms with the axle.

My, while you're in there would get the best of me, good time for new bushings...

 

[NLXTACY]

In other words, do it up!

 

[jtwopark]

In other words, do it up!

you mean buy a jeep JKU? I just might come over with one~!

 

[slow95z]

You might as well replace the tie rod ends. Never been able to get one off without trashing the boot. You will need to get the alignment checked once it is back in.

 

[fjfodee]

Can be done without disconnecting brake lines, just take your time.

 

[Hornd]

Can be done without disconnecting brake lines, just take your time.

Best to crack the bleeders occasionally, and let out the fluid next to the caliper which has seen the most heat.
With 2 ppl to bleed it's about a 5 min job and cost would be about $5 for new fluid. This will also keep the bleeders from becoming one with the calipers which turns into a big headache.

 

[NLXTACY]

you mean buy a jeep JKU? I just might come over with one~!

It better be a Gen 6 or you better find yourself another handsome, token white guy