Open Source GX460 Drawer System (DIY) (1 Viewer)

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Before I bought this truck I hadn’t turned a wrench since high school.

I probably should have hired someone to change the struts for my lift, instead I spent three days struggling through it. But that gave me the skills to replaced my wife's 3rd gen suspension completely a year later. And then a year after that, I changed out my daughter’s suspension in her lexus. The first time was hard and a waste of time and money, but that made the second and third time possible. Now I have the confidence to change out anything that breaks on the suspension on the trail.

Two years ago, I made a video, making fun of myself about how I can’t even change my own oil. Now I can change the oil in both my trucks in less time than it takes me to drive to the mechanic.
Same goes for the other skills from all the diy projects. Sometimes the first time is less efficient than just paying for it, but the second third and fourth times that I use those skills more than make up for the initial loss.

Its totally worth it if you enjoy learning new skills.

Got the prototype built and the truck loaded. I’m headed to Sedona. We’ll see how it holds up at the end of the weekend :)
 
Before I bought this truck I hadn’t turned a wrench since high school.

I probably should have hired someone to change the struts for my lift, instead I spent three days struggling through it. But that gave me the skills to replaced my wife's 3rd gen suspension completely a year later. And then a year after that, I changed out my daughter’s suspension in her lexus. The first time was hard and a waste of time and money, but that made the second and third time possible. Now I have the confidence to change out anything that breaks on the suspension on the trail.

Two years ago, I made a video, making fun of myself about how I can’t even change my own oil. Now I can change the oil in both my trucks in less time than it takes me to drive to the mechanic.
Same goes for the other skills from all the diy projects. Sometimes the first time is less efficient than just paying for it, but the second third and fourth times that I use those skills more than make up for the initial loss.

Its totally worth it if you enjoy learning new skills.

Got the prototype built and the truck loaded. I’m headed to Sedona. We’ll see how it holds up at the end of the weekend :)
That's awesome, congrats!
 
Before I bought this truck I hadn’t turned a wrench since high school.

I probably should have hired someone to change the struts for my lift, instead I spent three days struggling through it. But that gave me the skills to replaced my wife's 3rd gen suspension completely a year later. And then a year after that, I changed out my daughter’s suspension in her lexus. The first time was hard and a waste of time and money, but that made the second and third time possible. Now I have the confidence to change out anything that breaks on the suspension on the trail.

Two years ago, I made a video, making fun of myself about how I can’t even change my own oil. Now I can change the oil in both my trucks in less time than it takes me to drive to the mechanic.
Same goes for the other skills from all the diy projects. Sometimes the first time is less efficient than just paying for it, but the second third and fourth times that I use those skills more than make up for the initial loss.

Its totally worth it if you enjoy learning new skills.

Got the prototype built and the truck loaded. I’m headed to Sedona. We’ll see how it holds up at the end of the weekend :)
Don't get me wrong, I used to do all my own maintenance and repairs back when I was young, nimble, getting rid of used oil, batteries, etc. a lot easier and not a lot of money for someone else to do it. I've done engine rebuilds, swapped out a 4 banger and put a V8 in my old Chevy Vega, did clutches, alternators, valve jobs (not the machining) and more. Heck, I used to even wash my own vehicles! Until I realized I'd spend ALL day detailing it, when for a couple $20 dollar bills I could have it all done by a mobile auto detailer that'd come by the office and wash it while I worked. Zero time out of my day or weekend!

At a certain point in ones life, you realizes that personal time is more important than money.

But to make sure I didn't lose my skills, I even taught my daughter how to do maintenance. I have a picture of her changing out the alternator on her old '89 Toyota pickup. She was quite proud of that!
 
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Wrapping up my platform engineering and could use a little help.

I ended up laminating two layers of 1/2" baltic birch with screws and glue. I left recesses for Aluminium L-track and I'm hitting it with the second coat of bed-liner now. I mounted it using the existing M-10x1.25 bolt holes and mounted it to a .5"x3"x40" aluminum bar and spacers in the rear and custom made basic brackets out of 3/16" steel in the front. I made one and then took it to a small jobs machine shop where I got to see hang out with a really cool dude who let me hang out and film as he copied my prototype into cad and then made three more on the CNC machine.

I love the way this has turned out but I'm obsessing a bit too much about how to attach the L-track. The platform uses all metal connections to the car chasis, inspired by Air Down Gear Up's design, but the L-track was an afterthought and I don't like the idea of all my s*** being connected to tracks held down by wood screws into .5" ply. I used .5" #12 screws which are almost as wide as they are long, but don't like 20 or so of them holding back the grim reaper from my kids if I roll us down a hill.

Options to fix:

#1 - F^ck it. Life's an adventure and eight #12 screws into .5" baltic birch should hold fine unless I roll into the grand canyon.
#2 - F^ck, let's try to fix this. Add a few M-6 bolts with large washers to each rail at front back and center (see pic below)
#3 - No F^ck'n around with safety. - Engineer a way to have each track connected to the metal sub structure with all metal. i.e. - Dado out a groove across the bolt holes all the way to the platform edges, add a steel shank and tie it into the L-track (a lot of work).

Am I over thinking this?

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As long as the tie down points are tied into something other than the plywood, and properly tied down, I would think you would need a ton of places to fasten it. I was planning on reusing the third row seat main rear bolts for a place to attach the back of the plate and at least 2 tiedowns.
 
Wrapping up my platform engineering and could use a little help.

I ended up laminating two layers of 1/2" baltic birch with screws and glue. I left recesses for Aluminium L-track and I'm hitting it with the second coat of bed-liner now. I mounted it using the existing M-10x1.25 bolt holes and mounted it to a .5"x3"x40" aluminum bar and spacers in the rear and custom made basic brackets out of 3/16" steel in the front. I made one and then took it to a small jobs machine shop where I got to see hang out with a really cool dude who let me hang out and film as he copied my prototype into cad and then made three more on the CNC machine.

I love the way this has turned out but I'm obsessing a bit too much about how to attach the L-track. The platform uses all metal connections to the car chasis, inspired by Air Down Gear Up's design, but the L-track was an afterthought and I don't like the idea of all my s*** being connected to tracks held down by wood screws into .5" ply. I used .5" #12 screws which are almost as wide as they are long, but don't like 20 or so of them holding back the grim reaper from my kids if I roll us down a hill.

Options to fix:

#1 - F^ck it. Life's an adventure and eight #12 screws into .5" baltic birch should hold fine unless I roll into the grand canyon.
#2 - F^ck, let's try to fix this. Add a few M-6 bolts with large washers to each rail at front back and center (see pic below)
#3 - No F^ck'n around with safety. - Engineer a way to have each track connected to the metal sub structure with all metal. i.e. - Dado out a groove across the bolt holes all the way to the platform edges, add a steel shank and tie it into the L-track (a lot of work).

Am I over thinking this?

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Okay, let me see if I'm catching your thoughts correctly:
Basically you don't want those wimpy arse wood screws (that look waaaay too short) holding down your L-track to the plywood.

Suggestion:
  1. First, do you have a tap and die set? If not, get one (of each type, SAE and metric, I have several of both.): Amazon.com : tap and die set - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tap+and+die+set&crid=2WFCLG3VNLCS5&sprefix=tap+and+die+se%2Caps%2C173&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Also get a small bottle of cutting oil. Amazon product ASIN B01MDS7XQI It will keep you from breaking taps. Also, if you've never done it before, watch a short video on taping holes. It's simple but if you don't do it right you'll break your taps. how to tap a hole in steel - Google Search - https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+tap+a+hole+in+steel&client=firefox-b-1-d&ei=nB1gZJ3UL_HNkPIPjPSD4A8&ved=0ahUKEwidkubeufP-AhXxJkQIHQz6APwQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=how+to+tap+a+hole+in+steel&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIICAAQigUQkQIyBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeOgoIABBHENYEELADOhAILhCKBRDHARDRAxCwAxBDOgoIABCKBRCwAxBDOgUIABCABDoICAAQigUQhgNKBAhBGABQ0gNY5xBg3BJoAXABeACAAWuIAcoFkgEDOC4xmAEAoAEByAEKwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#kpvalbx=_oB1gZO6oNMLCkPIPk9OMmA8_31
  2. Get some stainless steel flat head screws that will fit the countersink of the L-track. Use "fine" thread. Example, if you're getting 1/4' screws, get 1/4"-28 not 1/4"-20. The second number is how many threads there are per inch. You only need them to be 1/6" deeper than your L-track. Also if you can, get socket head screws. They are easier to use and don't strip as easy and look cool. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/socket-head-cap-screws/flat-head-screws-4/
  3. Now, get a strip of steel (preferably stainless steel) that's about 1/16" thick and same length and width of the L-track.
  4. Use the information drill size card that probably came with your tap and die set and see what the "tap drill" bit size is for whatever size screws you purchased.
  5. Drill through holes in the steel strip that align with the L-track holes.
  6. Clean it all up and paint if you like, then bolt the L-track on with the metal strip running long the bottom.
That will NEVER come loose, break or any thing. They will find you and your rig upside down in the Grand Canyon and that will still be bolted! :D
Text me if you have questions and we can talk.
 
I was going to suggest something similar to hold down the L track (those screws are pretty small) but only if you can't get real nuts and washers under the plywood. But I'd use 1/8" mild steel flat stock. Stainless is tough to work with, and 1/16 is really thin for any meaningful threads.

How are you planning on attaching stuff the the L track? I know there's a bunch of different L track fittings, just curious what you're planning. I'd been thinking L track for when I make mine but I'm stuck on how to attach a drawer and a slide to it.
 
@Hiluxforever Tying all the d-rings into the seat bolts would surely be the strongest and safest. Not sure how practical it would be however. If you look at my plywood deck with the black plugs, look how far the outside bolts are in from the sides. You’d cut the useable area way down. Good point though.

@r2m I like that approach becuase I wouldn’t need to dado but I think I would just use a lighter gauge steel and put a lock nut on it in 3-4 place each strip. I think using every hole is a bit over kill so I could just fill the rest with the screws. I may do that and also swallow my pride and go back and get a 42” wide aluminum bar and just tie into that.

@ericm979 Mine came with basic loops which you could use with turnbuckles to attach a wood or extruded aluminum frame. I was going to go that direct but since I added the L-track as an afterthought it’s not tied into the frame. If you can tie you L track into frame through metal you could go that way safely. I’ll likely build a custom bracket in the center to span each set of two close bolts and maybe an outside L bracket going from the top left bolt (looking from rear) out towards the outside and tying into the drawer frame.

I’m going to make my frame out of 80/20 aluminum. It’s cheap and easy to work with. It should be easy to use T-nuts to attach heavy slides. You can order it cut to exact lengths and tapped or drilled for connectors.
 
I’m going to make my frame out of 80/20 aluminum. It’s cheap and easy to work with. It should be easy to use T-nuts to attach heavy slides. You can order it cut to exact lengths and tapped or drilled for connectors.
T-slot extruded aluminum is easy to cut if you any type of power saw. Just get a really fine toothed blade, 80 tooth or higher, for the saw and you'll have no problem cutting.
 
T-slot extruded aluminum is easy to cut if you any type of power saw. Just get a really fine toothed blade, 80 tooth or higher, for the saw and you'll have no problem cutting.
Ive been using a plywood blade with 60 teeth and it cuts like butter.

Also realizing the goose gear platform uses rivnuts in plywood and the rest of the manufacturers that put tie downs on their platforms and decks… they just bolt them to the plywood. I think Im over thinking the safety issues. Going to use the m-6 bolts and washers and call it good for now. Once I get the platform in it will be held through the bolts to the frame.

Gotta keep moving.
 
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Ive been using a plywood blade with 60 teeth and it cuts like butter.

Also realizing the goose gear platform uses rivnuts in plywood and the rest of the manufacturers that put tie downs on their platforms and decks… they just bolt them to the plywood. I think Im over thinking the safety issues. Going to use the m-6 bolts and washers and call it good for now. Once I get the platform in it will be held through the bolts to the frame.

Gotta keep moving.
These are quick, simple and cheap: Amazon product ASIN B07JQZHH28
It's funny how some of you will suggest something and it'll bring to mind something else I've forgotten about, such as these nuts.
 
Up from the bottom?
Yup, up from the bottom. Just drill a clearance hole for the nut and as you tighten, it just grips/digs into the wood.
Nice flat bottom without bolts or screws sticking out the bottom. Just ensure your screws are not too long.
 
Thought I’d drop a quick update. Platform has been done for a while. We’ve used it on several trips and loving the L-track. Super easy to tie anything we want down. Currently working on the frame for the sleeping platform and drawer system. Total cost to build the platform and all metal mounting system was just under $500

I think the next phases will be easier than designing the platform and mounting system which took some thinking. Planning on a few L-brackets to secure the frame then it’s just building a deck for it. The tircky part will be figuring out the sleeping platform and how to store the dog. I was thinking of using Bison Gear’s rear cargo seperator to keep the dog above the drawer and off my kid in the second row, but that will make it hard to lay the seats down since it attaches to the headrest.

Planning on a drawer on the L side and a slide out kitchen / fridge on the R. I made the frame for this side too narrow thinking I’d want to land it on the wood only, but after assembly and placing it on the L-track in the middle, I think it will be fine and want to maximize the drawer width. Will have to re-measure and order the laterals again.

Let me know what you guys think. Video on the platform coming soon.

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Looking good, Jake. It's nice that your fridge can open while tied down to the platform. Mine is too tall sitting on my drawers, so I'm going to need to add a slide to pull it out the rear. It's annoying how the barn door blocks a portion of the opening, so you have to lose space on the hinge side in order to clear the door when you're sliding drawers, etc. out. Can't wait for the video. It's about time you posted more GX content! ;)
 
Looking good, Jake. It's nice that your fridge can open while tied down to the platform. Mine is too tall sitting on my drawers, so I'm going to need to add a slide to pull it out the rear. It's annoying how the barn door blocks a portion of the opening, so you have to lose space on the hinge side in order to clear the door when you're sliding drawers, etc. out. Can't wait for the video. It's about time you posted more GX content! ;)
Thx! We’re actually thinking a new shorter fridge is in the cards. Once we get the slide out kitchen built we’d have to get a step ladder to forage.
 

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