Open Source GX460 Drawer System (DIY) (4 Viewers)

[jakemccurdy]

What do you guys think. Approach A or B? I'm using a .5"x3"x40" aluminum bar across the factory seat anchors to support the plywood and tie other stuff into (future drawers, etc.).

With 'A' It would be easy to recess the bolts into the plywood but then I'd have to deal with the recesses filling up with crap and the reduced strength. With B I could just recess the flat bar and then use smaller button head screws into the aluminum bar.

Any of your engineers know if tapping into .5" aluminum with m6/8 steel bolts advisable? Is aluminum strong enough to tapp and hold the wieght of a drawer system?

 

[Thed351W]

The rear plate I made was more like option A. Makes it nice when you slide things in to not have it catch on the way in. Thankfully most loads that get put on the floor are compression loads. Unless you plan on bolting down some heavy stuff to it I'd stick with A.

 

[r2m]

"B" depends upon how many bolts you're planning on using. If it's just 4 bolts, then no. If you're using a bunch then that'll work find but you are using more fasteners.
Personally I'd opt for "A". Reasons:

• Less hardware.
• As Thed351W mentioned, nothing protruding above the surface.

I really don't think there's a strength issue if you use enough hardware with option "B".
And if you're really concerned with the counter bored holes collecting debris, then get some cheap caps for the c-bores: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/products/plastic-end-caps/

 

[r2m]

Also, have you considered using any T-Slot framing material?

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

It's easy to work with, can make almost anything you can imagine, light weight and it's great for being able to position and bolt things down to.
Actually I'm surprised more overlander's haven't caught on to this yet.
The only caveat is it can get expensive if you're not careful with your planning.
Find a cheap 3D CAD app or software and model something out you like and then price out the T-Slot.
One last note, McMaster-Carr is a great one-stop for almost everything, but by far not the cheapest. So if you're thinking about T-slot, do some searches for cheaper material and components.

Good luck Jake!

 

[ericm979]

The flat bottomed hole in the bar for plan B will be hard to make unless you have access to a milling machine.


I'd probably just do A. I'd drill the pocket with a spade bit and then use the center hole from that as a locator for a pilot drill to make the through hole. When drilling a hole where depth is important I put tape on the bit where I need to stop.

 

[Ohio Nori]

I built my platform similar to your design A. I used flat socket head cap similar to these : M10X1.25 Fine Allen Socket Flat 10.9 DIN 7991 - https://belmetric.com/m10x1-25-fine-allen-socket-flat-10-9-din-7991/?sku=SF10X1.25X30&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy-G8xY-t_gIVTSqzAB0kygXTEAQYDSABEgLkq_D_BwE
Paired with a countersink drill bit you can have the head sitting perfectly flush with the platform.

 

[jakemccurdy]

I built my platform similar to your design A. I used flat socket head cap similar to these : M10X1.25 Fine Allen Socket Flat 10.9 DIN 7991 - https://belmetric.com/m10x1-25-fine-allen-socket-flat-10-9-din-7991/?sku=SF10X1.25X30&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy-G8xY-t_gIVTSqzAB0kygXTEAQYDSABEgLkq_D_BwE
Paired with a countersink drill bit you can have the head sitting perfectly flush with the platform.

I was actually thinking about going the same direction as another option, but I was worried that the counter sunk opening would be less strong than the dado opening with a bus washer. That would be a whole lot easier than cutting recesses for bus washers, though…

 

[jakemccurdy]

Also, have you considered using any T-Slot framing material?

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

It's easy to work with, can make almost anything you can imagine, light weight and it's great for being able to position and bolt things down to.
Actually I'm surprised more overlander's haven't caught on to this yet.
The only caveat is it can get expensive if you're not careful with your planning.
Find a cheap 3D CAD app or software and model something out you like and then price out the T-Slot.
One last note, McMaster-Carr is a great one-stop for almost everything, but by far not the cheapest. So you you're thinking about T-slot, do some searches for cheaper material and components.

Good luck Jake!

Yep. Definitely doing t-slot for my platform support and drawer frame.

 

[TheNomad]

I have a very simple wooden setup like B actually. Wooden slats as spacers, this allowed me to use the stock seat bolts with their large heads, and the thinner 1/2" platform material. Then T-nuts in the bottom of the spacers for the platform to bolt down to. I used countersunk flat top phillips head machine screws for a flat surface.

Actually did my first version like A as its simple, and I was using 3/4 ply so the bolt heads could countersink and then it was carpeted.

 

[MrTorgue]

Design A seems more practical and such.

 

[HVLA]

A. And then toss a dustbuster in the back if you are worried about dust in there.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Well, I think you’re almost all in agreement. A it is. That will also allow me to easily swap the center bolts out and add a bracket to connect my T-slot frame to the truck in the center.

Getting the drill press out this morning. Appreciate you guys chiming in.

 

[MrTorgue]

Well, I think you’re almost all in agreement. A it is. That will also allow me to easily swap the center bolts out and add a bracket to connect my T-slot frame to the truck in the center.

Getting the drill press out this morning. Appreciate you guys chiming in.

Cannot wait to see the final product.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Made some good progress. Drilling the aluminum was pretty easy. I think it would be no problem to recess but sticking to plan A.

 

[JZGarage]

@jakemccurdy this looks very slick!

 

[sheptastic]

Your design and goals sound pretty similar to the ADGU platform and drawers. You may get some inspiration from that: GX460 - https://store.airdowngearup.com/collections/gx460. There are some pics of my install here: Sheptastic 2015 GX460 Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sheptastic-2015-gx460-build.1282907/post-14480165.

It may be too late, but if you used some flat head machine screws instead of button heads for option B, you'd have no recess or protruding screws. You can just countersink them in the plywood.

 

[Washingtontaco]

What do you guys think. Approach A or B? I'm using a .5"x3"x40" aluminum bar across the factory seat anchors to support the plywood and tie other stuff into (future drawers, etc.).

With 'A' It would be easy to recess the bolts into the plywood but then I'd have to deal with the recesses filling up with crap and the reduced strength. With B I could just recess the flat bar and then use smaller button head screws into the aluminum bar.

Any of your engineers know if tapping into .5" aluminum with m6/8 steel bolts advisable? Is aluminum strong enough to tapp and hold the wieght of a drawer system?

View attachment 3299209

My guess is you will spend more time and money than what is commercially available.

 

[jakemccurdy]

My guess is you will spend more time and money than what is commercially available.

Time yes. Money no. Im in it $300 and the floor is done less paint. I have most of the wood for the drawers. Drawer sliders and frame material’s probably another $500? Last time I checked Goose gear is charging $900 for just the floor. My dad is retired and builds nice furniture so I should be able to get nice drawers for pretty cheap. Factoring that into the decision to do it myself.

I just couldn’t stomach spending $900 for a sheet of plywood with some holes and a coating of bedliner.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Correction. $350. And… you’re probably right, I should have just bought one. But I like making stuff.

 

[r2m]

Correction. $350. And… you’re probably right, I should have just bought one. But I like making stuff.

Half the fun of having a project vehicle is tinkering with it!
I hate doing maintenance on my rig, but I love tinkering with add-ons and mods, so long as it's with my wheel house of abilities.