Engine Work << TIME AND BANANAS >> (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
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I have seen the posts on how to do these, but nothing with time and :banana::banana::banana: banana ratings.

I would like to compile a list of tools / job ratings / and time for these:

Assuming the engine is already out, what is the expected time for a newbie doing these?

I am planning on doing these when I have time off over the Christmas break.

  • Rear Main Seal
  • Oil Pan Gasket
  • Intake and Exhaust Gaskets
  • Timing Cover Plate
  • Head Gasket
  • 2F Head cover gasket
  • Valve Cover Gasket
  • Carburetor Rebuild
Rear Main Seal
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:
The engine can be left on the frame. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=119347&highlight=rear+main+seal

The rear main seal is usually done in conjunction with changing out the clutch.

Drain OIL!!
Probably to let most of the oil drain off things so you're not under there bathing in raining oil.

If for any reason you seperate the transmission and the motor, you should replace the main seal. Toyota still carries it, but it's fairly expensive-near $40 as I recall. I thought the R and R was pretty easy-just grease it up, position carefully and drive it in. In the same area is the cam plug which can also leak. The only time you have access to that plug is when the bell housing is off. Based on my limited experience, though, if you do the oil pan gasket well, it will solve your problems. Tip-after it is spotlessly clean, clean the sealing surface with brake cleaner, and use extra Permatex in the corners.

[FONT=&quot]Rear main seals are a breeze and zero risk of damaging them if you install them when you have the pan down....drop the rear main bearing cap, pull out the old seal, clean the area up, install the new seal, re-install the main cap, and torque the four bolts.! No hammer, no beating on a 30 dollar seal, in and out.
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Oil Pan Gasket
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
12151-61010 Toyota one-piece oil pan gasket part number
Comments from Mud:
See Poser's Thread

How should the gasket be removed?
Flat tip screwdriver

Glueing the Gasket
Glue the gasket to the block

Gaket Sealer
For the oilpan, I put RTV black in the corners, as the FSM says to do. Also four long bolt are nice to get in the four corners of the pan so you can line it up and get the shorter bolts started, the change them out once you've got the cover close enough.

Line up Gasket
!!Make sure your gasket lines up in the grooves at the front and rear of the pan!! Tighten the bolts gradually in a circular pattern from the center. Torque the bolts to 53-104 inch pounds, as per the FSM.

Retorque
Don't forget to go back a week or so later and re-torque the bolts, as they tend to loosen a bit as the gasket seats and is heated and cooled a few times.
As far as the rear main seal goes, check the flywheel for oil streaks radiating from the center, also, the rear part of the oilpan can leak into the flywheel cover, so the amount of oil in the flywheel cover isn't necessarily a good indication of the condition of the rear main seal.

Intake and Exhaust Gaskets
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:

Timing Cover Plate
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:

Head Gasket
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:

2F Head cover gasket
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:

Valve Cover Gasket
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:
Carburetor Rebuild
Tools:
Time:
Gaskets:
Comments from Mud:

 
Last edited:
I too would like to see this info. I would be great for this to be in FAQ once each of these subjects is addressed.

Unfortunately, I have no answers.
 
Some Links for your preusal..

2F Head cover (Valve Cover) gasket

Tools: 14 mm ratchet & extension, screwdrivers
Time: 1 Hr
Gaskets: 11213-61010 (from one man's report!)

Comments from Mud: It's a no brainer when the 2F Valve cover is mounted on an "F" engine, where you don't have the air cleaner mounted over the valve cover. Just pop off the few hoses that go over the top of the valve cover, pull it off, replace the gasket and re-install.

The 2F gasket is a neoprene-like gasket that doesn't stick to the head. In my case, no scraping, etc. was required.

Here's a link to the 2F cover on the F engine:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=96493

I can't say on a 2F, but it should be just about as easy. just more stuff to remove & re-install.



Head Gasket
Here's a useful thread on Head Gaskets:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=114222&highlight=Head+Gasket
:
 
Instead of :banana: :banana: :banana: ratings could be rated in how many moons have passed :rolleyes:
 
Head Gasket

I'm not sure why you'd want to replace the head gasket, unless it is blown,... and at that point, I'd look into overhauling the engine or at least rebuilding it, last I recall, a head gasket is in the $100 range, not the kind of cash I would be throwing around unless it was merited.
None of the repairs listed are beyond 2-3 bananas.

Rear main seal,... if it is leaking, definitely is merited,... carbs can require periodic maintenance/rebuilding/cleaning.

But, bottom line, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!",... you're just borrowing trouble.

Just IMO
WILL
 

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