ENGINE WIRING 1UZ 2UZ & 3UZ and immobilizer removal services (1 Viewer)

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I shipped it out UPS today, should be there monday according to the lady behind the counter.

I included the filled out form, the ECU and the engines wiring harness. I will be running a manual and just want the simplest system I can have on it.

I still have to track down the correct drive by wire pedal for the engine, ignition wiring, OBD2 wiring, Fuel pump wiring(?), Check engine light wiring, do you know off hand if I will have to run a speed sensor?

Just let me know what you are able to do and I will figure out the rest.

Thanks again!
 
Ok. All good. You have nothing to worry about regarding OBD2 as we build this into the harness for you and can be extended to reach any area of the vehicle you would like to have the connector placed. Yous systme is a CAN system so there are basically only four wires to cuat and extend. Ignition straight from your key or any other ignition 12v source. This is a trigger for the system and is a very small gauge. WE will guild you through the steps. Pedal we have a few in stock so if you struggle with that we can sort that out for you. Check engine light will also be in your client plug. You basically have nothing to worry about. Speed sensor for your vehicle speed you have a few options. GPS is one but i do not really like it as when you loose signal you have no signal. So driving through a tunnel it dies but comes back alive once location is reachieved. A speed sensor on your propsahft is a nice way to go but requires a little fabracation. Also a devider or nultiplier will be required for calibration. All os no troubles and when you get her back you will be able to test run the engine on the floor if you choose to do before installing into the vehicle.
 
Thanks for the response and all the info. I’ll probably take you up on the pedal. Speed sensor I will have to figure out, I don’t think the gps is the best option either, driveshaft maybe an issue as well, this truck will be put through hell during the desert races it will see.
 
Here is a thought. If your truck has ABS you could take a signal from that and then run that signal through a converter (Signal Calibration Unit) to run the speedometer. That was there is nothing extra external that can get dusted or mudded up. You could use a simple board like an ardueno to do the calibration and create a suitable signal for the cluster.
 
Trying.. ITs rough here at the moment. A lot of damage. We still alive and kicking.lol. Rough though. Shame... A lot of people got taken out. Not a good storm. Had to baricade the doors. All steel reinforcement we used to lock down the doors bent but held. The worst was it took forever to get over us.
 
Glad you made it through! I had some flooding at my place, debris everywhere! Still cleaning up, chainsawing branches off of my roof yesterday. I duct taped/ boarded/ sand bagged all my lower doors im about a block from the water that always seems to come and visit during a storm.

It looks like people are on some hard times after the hurricane, my heart goes out to them.
 
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I want to post here just inform folk on this subject as I have some experience and I also know the general atmosphere that is the Mud Universe. Tim is great and not only produces a great product, but is fantastic at supporting his products/services. Tim modified a UZ harness for me and it worked perfect out of the box. Perfect.

What I do want Mud folks to know, and isn't advertised, is just that the harness you get back will no longer be wired like it was from the factory. For instance, the Fp wire from the diagnostic port in the engine bay had been completely removed and presumably stolen for the new relay box. So, if you ever wanted to prime or test the pump, it's no longer in there. This bugged me slightly because it just was not necessary. In fact, the whole fuel pump circuit is quite different than the UZ was wired from the factory utilizing the ground from the oil pressure switch to ground the fuel pump relay trigger. A nice safety feature should you ever lose oil pressure, but could also leave you dead if the sender went bad and you didn't know that.

The take home point of this FYI is that the wiring will be different enough from factory that you will be losing some ability to use factory wiring diagrams for trouble shooting or whatever in the future. Again, no disrespect or dissing Tim's services. He is great.
 
Thanks for the info. As long as I have a way to problem solve in the future I am good with it, this truck is being built for long and extremely challenging adventures so problem solving might be needed but as long as I have a road map I don't mind at all. Excited for the harness and for getting this truck on the road.
 
I want to post here just inform folk on this subject as I have some experience and I also know the general atmosphere that is the Mud Universe. Tim is great and not only produces a great product, but is fantastic at supporting his products/services. Tim modified a UZ harness for me and it worked perfect out of the box. Perfect.

What I do want Mud folks to know, and isn't advertised, is just that the harness you get back will no longer be wired like it was from the factory. For instance, the Fp wire from the diagnostic port in the engine bay had been completely removed and presumably stolen for the new relay box. So, if you ever wanted to prime or test the pump, it's no longer in there. This bugged me slightly because it just was not necessary. In fact, the whole fuel pump circuit is quite different than the UZ was wired from the factory utilizing the ground from the oil pressure switch to ground the fuel pump relay trigger. A nice safety feature should you ever lose oil pressure, but could also leave you dead if the sender went bad and you didn't know that.

The take home point of this FYI is that the wiring will be different enough from factory that you will be losing some ability to use factory wiring diagrams for trouble shooting or whatever in the future. Again, no disrespect or dissing Tim's services. He is great.
Hi. Just to point out if the oil pressure switch went bad the fuel pump would stay on if the ignition was on. It would only turn off it got a ground. To prime one could unplug the oil pressure switch or could apply power directly to the fuel pump wire or fuel pump fuse on the system. Basically the same as the original FP curcuit. The structure of the harness is basically the same when diagnosing. The 6 fuses break up the individual circuits making it easy to track and find any prtential issue.
I appriciate the comentry and will take into consideration.
 

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