Engine Take Out (1 Viewer)

[SquareOne]

I found an oil leak, after cleaning the transmission, oil pan, and front diff with brake cleaner then checking again I realized it has to be the engine oil pan seal. We compared the oils to fresh oil for the other components, it looks to be engine oil.

My mechanic said it could be the rear main seal, but I doubt it since I just did the water pump, timing belt, differential fluid, transmission fluid. That was one of the seals I replaced, so the engine now has to come out to get a better eye.


Now here is my question, what should I replace at this point, so I don't have to take this beast out of the engine bay again later.

I currently have to replace these because of other issues I came across:

Compressor with seals

Condenser with seals

Evaporator for front with seals

I decided to completely remove the rear AC at this point I haven't found an efficient fix without replacing the aluminum line with one that it originally had. It does not do well with salt and not worth the work.
I am currently looking at:
Oil pan lower gasket, RTV for upper pan gasket, figure 8 seal, and main oil pump seal.

Perhaps the Engine mounts since I'm there?


What could be done at this point, since it has to be a take out?

 

[GTV]

The rear main seal is on the opposite side of the timing belt, where the engine mates to the transmission.

First step, clean everything very well. Carefully tighten up your valve cover bolts, leaks from the valve covers often travel down and appear to be from the rear main. Drive it and monitor, it's impossible to tell where it's coming from when everything is oily.

 

[jsloden]

You wouldn't have replaced the rear main seal when you did the timing belt job. Opposite end of the engine. Like gtv stated. clean everything really well and see if you can tell where the leak is coming from. There is absolutely no reason to remove the engine unless it is actually the rear main seal. Even then most people don't worry about repairing it because it's a minor enough of a leak that it never really drips on the ground. Mine has had this leak ever since I owned the truck and it never drips nor is it ever low between oil changes. All of the other leaks can be repaired with the engine in the truck. I've done pretty much all of them.

 

[SquareOne]

I replaced the rear main seal when I did the differentials and transmission fluid change.

It could be as GTV said it may be coming from the valve cover, I have to look at that. I think after spraying brake cleaner around the oil pan, transmission, and differential cover. My guess this may be leaking from the Oil Pan #1, the oil was dripping above the front diff.

 

[jsloden]

I would start with the easiest leaks to get at first. The oil cooler and filter housing definitely looks like it's leaking. I would replace those first. I believe even the upper oil pan can be removed without pulling the engine. But yeah, clean everything really well first and go from there. It could be leaking trans fluid from the from of the tranny but it doesn't look like it in the pic you provided.

 

[SquareOne]

You're right I'm going to get to those first, I thought it was the tranny pan, but after cleaning it up and re-torquing the bolts, it was ruled out.

The truck has about 79,000 miles on it, I was really thinking it may be best to take it out and look it over since it is also over 15 years old.

I was contemplating on redoing the cylinder gaskets, and cylinder head gaskets since it's out on a stand. Although I heard stories, once you open Pandora box, especially on a factory seal, a lot of stuff can go wrong. I guess if it ain't broke, don't touch it.

 

[2001LC]

I sit here writing, you keep adding more info. You've engine out on a stand now?

 

[SquareOne]

Lol I was wondering when you would reply


I haven't done anything yet, I need to plan it out since I use this as my daily driver.

I have to purchase all the parts still.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I have nothing to add other than that is one really rusty diff and maybe the oil leaks are a good thing and keep all the bolts from seizing? Good luck with it.

 

[SquareOne]

I have nothing to add other than that is one really rusty diff and maybe the oil leaks are a good thing and keep all the bolts from seizing? Good luck with it.

I said the same thing while doing that job, I actually painted it with rust reformer and a top coat. Unfortunately, I don't have a good photo of it. This is the only one after I did the diff drop.

I recommend anyone who wants to paint anything on the frame better off not to. The paint will peel anyway in time, I had a wax overcoat with paint. You're better off using surface shield or something similar (fluid film, wool wax, etc.), it will save you the headache. After doing much research and seeing other trucks, Lanolin seeps into the metal, protecting it for life as long as you reapply after every 2 years.

 

[2001LC]

I replaced the rear main seal when I did the differentials and transmission fluid change.

It could be as GTV said it may be coming from the valve cover, I have to look at that. I think after spraying brake cleaner around the oil pan, transmission, and differential cover. My guess this may be leaking from the Oil Pan #1, the oil was dripping above the front diff.


View attachment 3284429

I see very little signs of oil leaks in this pictures. Either from valve covers, pan or rear main Which you indicate is older picture during rear main seal job. Unless was very long time ago and you had cleaned really well before above picture and picture during assembly (flex plate). My guess rear main needless redone and is now leaking. The fact you replaced main rear seals, is concerning. At 79K miles that should not be needed, unless High Mileage oil used.

History important. I'll assume (based on pictures) this from a humid climate. Rubber seal and hose tend to last longer in humidity. Only 79K miles 05 should not have any leaks anywhere.

What seals have been replaced and with what (OEM) and by whom?

I've never see the 4.7L "factory sealed" oil pans leak. Very common to mistake for oil dipstick O-ring weep, as pan leak.

Make sure to follow oil from bottom up, getting very clear pictures of all side of engine!, before decreasing. I use a soap de-greasers with HP washer. Then retake pictures, after as clear evidence it's clean of all oil. Then studied all point for first appearance of oil, after each engine run time

Very often head covers need re-torquing to 53IN-lbf (INCH not LB). Signs for this are found from above, looking at seal points of head (valve) covers. In your flex plate expose picture I can only see the tiny bit of black on black under head/exhaust manifold. Not sure if oil. But I'd expect to see a lot, based on first picture of oil leak, if from head covers,

I see some oil in filter area, which may just be spillage. But if Rack & Pinion R&R, but that would be unusual at only 79K miles. The we should consider that often, when R&P replaced, shops remove oil filter bracket Very often resulting in leak. So be sure to get picture of all sides of oil filter & oil cooler housing bracket, than clean. Remember oil flows in all direction down, up and sided ways. But mostly down and back (if driven)!

Both the oil dip stick at base as it enters oil pan and the back of oil filter housing & cooler bracket. Can be photographed, from underside. Just place camera up near back of engine mount along block and shoot with flash light lighting the area and flash on.

Also check each corner of engine bottom. 4.7L has 3 point seals in corners, which we do see weep from.

 

[abuck99]

The oil that is coated everywhere, looks to have been there quite some time- and maybe leaking from multiple areas. I’ve not seen many 2UZFE with oil leak coverage like yours even at 200k-300k miles- yet you say yours has 79k- very uncommon.

This leak here in the bell housing looks red-like transmission fluid

 

[SquareOne]

Very detailed breakdown, thank you for that, it was well thought out.

Ok, here is a list of components done so far:

rear main (redundancy nothing was wrong but since I was there I did it anyway.)

crankshaft, 2x camshaft, main oil seals

All from THO

Aisin kit for the water pump and timing belt. Including Mitsubishi pulleys.

OEM heater tees

JS fuel filter

OEM Transmission oil filter, O ring, drain plug and gasket seal

OEM tensioner pulley assembly

OEM coolant thermostat

Power steering pump DNJ, o rings, pressure switch SMP are aftermarket.

NGK Iridium spark plugs



I will also mention I recently had to replace my Rack and Pinion with a reman. My CVs went out too (those are aftermarket, I know I'll ride them out for now, then get OEM).

I was driving and one of my sway bar links snapped on the front end, I believe that's what caused so much damage.

I just recently installed a 2 inch lift Dobinsons kit without the torsion bars. That's when I found the steering components damaged. I installed a diff drop a week ago, that's when I saw the oil leak. The shop installed the rack and pin I was not there to see the work, unfortunately, and now I can see how it may be possible that may have something to do with the leak.

I took some photos today and looked around the engine mounts. I don't believe the leak is coming from the front, unless it is such a small leak that it's weeping ever so slowly. I realized one thing if it were to leak all over in the front end, you would see oil on the top of the skid plate, it's pretty clean, again unless it would be weeping slowly. If you look at the other photo where you can see the driveshaft, there is oil.

I believe it may very well be coming from the rear of the engine connecting to the transmission.

 

[2001LC]

Really to get the pictures of all points, skids need to come of. Once you have them all, clean spotless. Then take more picture of clean as evidence. Than watch after every time engine runs and after each drive. Check PS, transmission and engine oil levels.

On RH side of engine I do not see oiling coming from front, along pan seal. But some ares in shadows so IDK. I do see some coming down back of block from top, but not much. So difficult call, as why so much more oil on lower rear pan. Accumulation or other leaks???

I also see oil, but again in the shadows. At front timing cover weep hole. Oil from here may traveled along bottom of pan. If is leaking at front, it's either botched T-belt job and or oil pump O-ring. Which at 05 at 79K is unheard of. Unless HM oil used.

@abuck99 had picking up on and circled a red dip of oil. Red is ATF, unless you've some red engine oil.

We're see what looks like oil & ATF leaks. From every point you said you resealed. Sealed you seem s to have replace, that where not leaking. Or so earliest picture did not show.

Sorry man. But you may need to reseal all that was touched. But really , clean spotless and watch to pin point as leak begins.

You did not get picture posted of oil filter and cooler bracket, where attaches to oil pump. I do see signs of oil and the oil filter bracket stay (black bracket w/ bolts).

I do not see picture of LH side engine block, oil dip stick or back of oil filter & cooler bracket..

 

[SquareOne]

I had some more photos but I did not post them the quality was terrible trying to hold the camera without having it fall into the bay. I ended up purchasing a borescope with a screen, (I needed one for my bench anyway) I'll take better shots of all the areas mentioned and get back.

I do want to mention that some of the black spots were from over spray from when painting the frame. I also replaced the seal for the oil pump, but it's always good to check none the less.