Engine swap questions (1 Viewer)

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This is an exerpt from a thread I have in the '55 section but I would like to hear more opinions on this. I have a '77 Fj55 and I am swapping out the stock eng, trans, and tranny and replacing it with a donor setup from an '81 FJ40. Well I have a couple questions. So...

The rear engine mounts on the orig. '77 FJ55 engine have three mounting points per mount and side but the newer, '81 FJ40 engine only has two but also incorporated a crossmember. I wasn't planning on using the crossmember and was wondering if I should just drill, and then 'tap and die' the new holes (one on either side of the bellhousing) or if I should go through the trouble of swapping bellhousings? Seems like a pain to swap out bellhousings unless folks think I shouldn't mess with drilling the newer housing.

Also, which transmission and transfercase setup do ya'all suggest? The newer '81 or the older '77 or a mix 'n match? I also realize if I use the newer transfercase I lose the drum mounted emergency brake. Can the drum mount be swapped to the newer '81 transfercase? Or am I stuck with getting a disc brake conversion, line lock, or rear disc brake/emergency brake combo? Just trying to 'wrap' my brains around all the options in order to make a good decision. Thanks for any advice.

Oh, and I guess I will probably have to shorten my rear driveshaft also. Was hoping to get this done by Christmas as a gift to myself but I'm losing faith.

I have been researching this on Mud for a while but am running into some roadblocks. Anyone still reading all this and actually gettin' it?

Thanks, Carlos
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I like to think that you could drill and tap but looks like it a better idea to swap bell housing. While you are there doing the swap you can replace the rear enging seal, pilot bearing, and resurface the flywheel if you are replacing the clutch.
 
I like to think that you could drill and tap but looks like it a better idea to swap bell housing. While you are there doing the swap you can replace the rear enging seal, pilot bearing, and resurface the flywheel if you are replacing the clutch.

I was hoping to not have to replace the clutch and seperate anything because the new setup runs well and the clutch is in good shape and it isn't leaking more than usual. But, if I have to...
 
removing bellhousing

It is possible to swap out the bellhousing without breaking it all down too far.
I would probably start by unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing first, being careful everything is well supported (engine by itself, and tranny/t-case by itself as well.) You will want to make sure to pull the tranny straight out of the clutch disc, once the bellhousing is unbolted from the tranny, so as not to disturb its "proper" alignment,... this will aid you big-time in putting it back in later.

Once you remove the tranny,... go ahead and unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, replace with the alternate one, and reverse the procedure.

It could really be done the other way,... removing the tranny w/the bellhousing still mounted to it, but figure in another 20 lbs or so for the weight of the bellhousing could make it a little more invasive.
 
It is possible to swap out the bellhousing without breaking it all down too far.
I would probably start by unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing first, being careful everything is well supported (engine by itself, and tranny/t-case by itself as well.) You will want to make sure to pull the tranny straight out of the clutch disc, once the bellhousing is unbolted from the tranny, so as not to disturb its "proper" alignment,... this will aid you big-time in putting it back in later.

Once you remove the tranny,... go ahead and unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, replace with the alternate one, and reverse the procedure.

It could really be done the other way,... removing the tranny w/the bellhousing still mounted to it, but figure in another 20 lbs or so for the weight of the bellhousing could make it a little more invasive.

SWEET! That helps quite a bit. I haven't pulled a tranny in years and was under the impression I would need to get a clutch alignment tool and of course should probably replace rear main seal, pilot, and throw out bearings and I guess if I was going to do all that I should probably replace all the clutch components while I am in there. Was hoping not to go through all that trouble.

So, any advice as to which transmission and transfer case I should use? I have searched and found different info about the gearing and strength of these two setups. Any more advice? Oh, and anyone know if the two setups are different length? Will I need to mess with driveline lengths? Any advice about emergency brake setups? I would like to avoid a 'line-lock'. What's the next best setup?

Thanks everyone, Carlos.
 
Willsta2000- I just read your sig line and noticed you have a pig! Do you ever lurk/hang in the 55 specific section here on Mud? If you don't and you're up to it you should check in and post up pics of your rig, it sounds like a monster! Thanks again for your advice.
 
i dont know much about parts on anything newer then a 73 but my bellhousing was bolted behind the clutch so i had to take the clutch out. to me it looks like the bells are the same and you could just drill and tap. thats what I would do. And for my slef I prefer gear to gear tcases so I would find an older one and swap it in.
 
i dont know much about parts on anything newer then a 73 but my bellhousing was bolted behind the clutch so i had to take the clutch out. to me it looks like the bells are the same and you could just drill and tap. thats what I would do. And for my slef I prefer gear to gear tcases so I would find an older one and swap it in.

Thanks, so that's one for drill 'n tap. Anyone actually do this during their swap?

I believe the clutch bolts on to both bellhousings in the same place/manner. I have both the '77 FJ55 cluth assembly as well as the donor rigs '81 FJ40 assembly. Should be able to make it work with these parts. At first glance it did not look like it would be an issue but I better go make sure...

Oh, and what do you mean by 'gear to gear tcases' ?
 
an early 3speed tcase no chain just gears inside.
also I dont know about toy 4speads I had a 3speed in mine and the bellhousing to block bolts where behind the clutch
 
The spilt cases commonly used with the cruisers are not chain driven. The following website from tech shows the guts of a split case. They came from late 40's, 60's, and 62's at least. Probably others stateside and even more overseas.

http://www.the-networks.com/tcase/
 
TTT!

From my other post...

Somebody must have done something similar or know more about this. Anyone?

Which transmission and which transfer case do ya'all suggest is best for mild wheeling/daily driving? The '77 or '81 transmission and/or transfer case?

I have done lots of searches and am still educating myself about all the differences and similarities to these setups but am still confused about some stuff.

I will lose the emergency drum brake mounted on the older '77 tcase (if I don't use it) but can add a disk e-brake or rear discs w/ an e-brake or a line lock, right? I am not interested in a line lock but I would like a safe, reliable, and not terribly expensive e-brake setup. Are there any other options like this? What have you guys used?

And, what about driveline lengths due to the differences in transmission, tcase, and e-brake setups? Any advice. Can I get away without changing lengths? How?

Thanks everyone. Ya'all rock and I definitely appreciate any advice. Carlos
 
You shouldn't have to use a clutch alignment tool as long as you do not remove the pressure plate, which will keep your clutch disc helc pretty firmly in place... the alignment tool is used just to center the clutch disc to the throwout bearing/bushing when reinstalling the pressure plate... IIRC my 4 speed bellhousing was removable w/o breaking the clutch down,... but it has been a few years, and the stock engine, bellhousing has all been bye-bye for some time.
I guess my tagline is a bit decieving,... I have FJ55 springs on my 40 w/the front solid frame mounts shifted approx 2" forward & rear shackle mounts rearward.

Most folks simply replace the rear seal at the same time,... because if you don't,... Murphy's Law will dictate your seal will go out shortly after its all back together, causing you to have to repeat the process all over again. Same goes with the clutch. But it can be done.
 
Just retain your original tranny/t-case and you won't have to mess with any other adjustments w/driveshafts or anything.
 
Just retain your original tranny/t-case and you won't have to mess with any other adjustments w/driveshafts or anything.

This is exactly what I am planning to do now. K.I.S.S. Was hoping to use the best combo of parts but it seems to create a bunch of problems so I am going to keep it simple. Will be attempting to seperate both bellhousings today...

Thanks again for everyone's advice.
 
Well, I had some help and worked on both engines today. My buddy seperated the transmission from the donor engine but we were unable to remove the bellhousing until we tore down the clutch/flywheel/pressure plate. There were two bolts that hung us up. They were way up near the top of the bellhousing on the inside and behind the flywheel, nearly immpossible for us to get to with our available tools. So, I guess I will be doing the same with the other engine setup and will either use the best clutch parts I have or will buy some new parts.
 
If the flywheel has hot spots be sure to have it resurfaced....just a thought. Without offending anyone, K.I.S.S. goes a long ways when its not broke but D.I.RT.(doing it right today)is even better when it comes to doing preventive maintenance during a "swap".:) Sorry I had to throw that in there.
 

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